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Post by racket on May 17, 2024 16:18:34 GMT -5
You'll need some form of flameholders in the upstream end of the main tube
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Post by racket on May 17, 2024 16:17:29 GMT -5
I have used compression fittings on my propane lines used for gasious preheating/pilot light , but theres no real pressure involved unlike if the propane is used as fuel with P2 backpressures adding to the delivery pressure .
Go flared and be safe :-)
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Post by racket on May 16, 2024 17:12:02 GMT -5
You'll need to build the propane system to a high standard , annealed copper tubing with flared fittings , same as what a gas fitter would do when hooking up propane for household use , and leak test EVERYTHING after assembly .
Have a fast action ball valve in the system .
As Richard mentioned , propane can be dangerous , it was originally used in RC turbines but was discontinued after too many fires burning expensive aircrafts and engines
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Post by racket on May 16, 2024 17:03:53 GMT -5
Feed the fuel in as early as possible .
I'm still not certain about your actual A/B construction though , could you post a rough drawing please
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Post by racket on May 15, 2024 17:44:44 GMT -5
Hi Liquid propane can be used but any leaks can be dangerous, propane explosions happen :-( Its easier to used liquid fuel like kero or diesel , just a decent EFI pump and a spray nozzle . You can use the propane cylinder valve as your throttle for liquid propane use , I used liquid propane on my turboprop PJ initially www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqMn0A2aUdo&ab_channel=AndrewMartin before going to petrol with propane for starting and warm up www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVQavn_o_lE&ab_channel=racketmotormanYou might find that you'll need a spray nozzle for liquid rather than the more crude gasious devices we use . Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 15, 2024 17:13:09 GMT -5
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Post by racket on May 15, 2024 16:11:51 GMT -5
Hi
Don't believe anything Tech Ingredients tell you about turbine engines, the know nothing , all they do is repeat info they're stolen from somewhere else :-(
I'll have a look at their design and get back to you .
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 15, 2024 5:15:07 GMT -5
Hi Andrew
There wasn't a lot of bleed air used , just enough to prevent hot gases getting into the bearings and to prevent heat soakback , sorta like the RC turbines used , but a decent lube supply will be better :-)
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 15, 2024 3:55:17 GMT -5
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Post by racket on May 15, 2024 0:20:01 GMT -5
Hi Andrew
They might machine the shaft or in some cases the wheels come with reduced dia shafts , E and E Turbo have some turb wheels in their catalogue TW- 0349 134/123mm and TW-0349-1 134/127mm for HX82 with 14.996mm shafts for ball bearings , they also do a couple of other 134/127mm wheels with 15.97mm shaft and 17.80 mm shaft
I tried sourcing those wheels but they wouldn't sell them as they were a private buyer :-(
I used 20 mm ball bearing when I was playing around with balls in the FM-1 and 9/94 engines , they soon run out of RPM , better with the 15mm ones for what you want to do .
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 14, 2024 20:20:51 GMT -5
The tractor pulling guys use 15mm bore bearings on their HX82 based turbos , SKF do 15 and 17 mm
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Post by racket on May 14, 2024 16:49:27 GMT -5
Hi Richard
The bore/throat of the bellmouth needs to be at least 5 inch- 127 mm preferably a millimeter or two larger , the 5 inch bellmouths have 5 inch OD but a few millimeters undersized for the bore which isn't a good thing when feeding a 127 mm inducer .
The bellmouth outlet could be cut back to a point where the bore is big enough but that creates other mounting issues with being able to get to the fasteners .
LOL.............I'll stick with what I have, its too big a job to change things .
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 14, 2024 4:24:41 GMT -5
Hi Richard
Yep , thats a better priced bellmouth , but its 5" OD again :-(
I considered filling inside the return section of the bellmouth with some JB weld at the starter spider mounting points, but never got around to it ............LOL, other things were more important .
The engine is still siting on my shed floor doing nothing but gathering dust , maybe one day I'll get back to it and reinforce the mountings :-)
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 14, 2024 2:54:52 GMT -5
Thats possible , I used one on the 12/118 engine postlmg.cc/qgLTzvKz Found this comment on my thread ... ...... I needed something fairly strong for mounting the starter off , it was advertised as 1/8" thick alloy , but only ended up ~2mm , also the throat is ~5mm bigger than my inducer which necessitated a bit of a taper in the comp housing snout bore to blend things , but it'll do the job :-)....... Sounds like it was a "5 incher " but with the bore only 5mm bigger than my 118mm comp , thats 123mm or 4.85" , so 5" OD so that its the same as the 5" turbo casting and easy to fit with a flexible coupling , maybe I remembered that when I did the current bellmouth .
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Post by racket on May 14, 2024 0:41:41 GMT -5
Hi Andrew
Thats handy , I wonder why I didn't buy off them ??
LOL.............maybe because my first comps were bigger than 5"at 128mm , I really can't remember ..............just had a look and it was during Covid Lockdowns , there was nuthin' nowhere , the local Op Shop was only 100 meters away so used what I could find :-)
Cheers John
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