dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Dec 18, 2022 21:26:57 GMT -5
Looking great as ever John, I think they'll really make a difference. Looking forward to the new numbers.
Testing that monster is probably getting expensive by now lol
-Joe
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Dec 15, 2022 21:54:59 GMT -5
John,
Could you machine up a quick bushing that would fit into the inlet and act as a restrictor, limiting the flow into the comp? Maybe it would give you an indication if you are indeed pushing up on surge. Would pre-swirl help?
-joe
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Oct 14, 2022 7:24:08 GMT -5
That he431ve would work good, better than the gt37. The holset is easy to lock the vanes full open, and is alot less restrictive than the gt37 vanes.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Sept 9, 2022 21:56:11 GMT -5
John,
What did you get for efficiencies? I calculated ~76% at 1 bar, and I think by 2 or 3 bar it was 73ish I think. What efficiency was you aiming for?
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Aug 19, 2022 11:51:57 GMT -5
Hi John,
I noticed nothing really changed with the water, but the gauges all looked really solid compared to the first runs. You definitely got it sorted out, and it's still my favorite sounding startup.
Your making it really tempting to do something with this gt62 rotor!
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Aug 17, 2022 17:13:45 GMT -5
There's a 1.06a/r housing that I use on twin turbo builds, you can get the non gated knock offs for $100 shipped off ebay. It really let's the gt35s floooooow.
A guy on Facebook gt group used one similar to this in a compound setup with same .63 housing, it tapped out pretty quickly.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Aug 17, 2022 14:44:43 GMT -5
John,
In this case could a bushing/sleeve be fitted in the comp cover inlet to effectively cut down the inducer area? It's not a good fix, but would atleast help move things in the right direction for a first start.
-Joe
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Aug 3, 2022 18:37:13 GMT -5
John, what do you use for a sensor? I have a guy who has tried using an egt and Bluetooth grill temp sensors for measuring t2. Problem we always have is delay. Just wondering if there's anything faster, auber instruments has an open element sensor I thought about trying.
-Joe
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Jul 14, 2022 20:06:25 GMT -5
Scored today, picked up 2 hx55 turbos in good condition for $80. Didn't really care about the turbos themselves, but they had the interstage piece to go to the hp841 freepower. Other than that, no progress it's just that time of the year and don't have any spare time to do anything with the engine.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Jul 5, 2022 7:50:10 GMT -5
I bought one also, had to open the wheels exducer, they have it choked down in order to squeeze any available energy left over.
It's really a neat, compact unit.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on May 22, 2022 17:45:25 GMT -5
I bought the champion 589 plug, looks to be the same electrode end as yours, but has a regular end on the top for a regular sparkplug wire. Just to let others know in case they want to use automotive stuff.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on May 4, 2022 21:19:31 GMT -5
So how EXACTLY does backsweep change things so much? If to get x pressure the air needs to be sped up to y amount, then how does changing the backsweep change that? If the air has to hit 1,000ft/sec to get 2.0pr (just pulled random numbers here) then how does changing the blade angle change that?
Can't remember which book I read it in, but I remember reading about slip factor, and I can see in the above picture that the wheel with backswept blades has to spin faster to hit the same pr as the radially tipped wheel. I'm just wondering how it not only widens the map, but also picks up efficiency.
-Joe
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dieselguy86
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RPM
Apr 27, 2022 17:13:04 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dieselguy86 on Apr 27, 2022 17:13:04 GMT -5
There's quite a few different ways, but you asked for the easiest. It doesn't get much easier or reliable than the garrett gauge.
Laser tach works but is very sensitive to just the right conditions.
The rc turbines use a magnet in the compressor nut, this works great but you'd need to be good at electronics to build a stand alone system. Or buy the xicoy ecu kit for ~$300, but I think you need all the sensors hooked up and an rc signal for it to work. A bunch of extra for one thing, but its an option.
There's an optical option, where a transmitting and receiving leds are mounted straight across from each other. In the middle is a compressor nut with a hole filled thru it. The hole is inline with the 2 leds, when it lines up, the leds cab see each other and registers a signal.
The other optical option is like the laser tach, where the compressor but is painted half white/ black. The white reflects the signal to the receiving led, and counts it as a signal.
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dieselguy86
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RPM
Apr 27, 2022 16:31:20 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dieselguy86 on Apr 27, 2022 16:31:20 GMT -5
Buy a Garrett turbo speed gauge
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Apr 18, 2022 20:26:10 GMT -5
Some successes, and some carnage lol. I was finally able to get some data today. I made the motor mount out of some steel and just clamped it to the ABS mount. Ramped it up to full speed and closed the needle valve. Again it pops off at 250psi, but the spray is much finer around 350-400psi. At 1,000psi it sprays ~56° full cone, with id say 60% more towards the center. [/div] I got things ready to do a flow rate test, grabbed the scales and bummer dead battery. So a half hour trip to town to get a new scale battery. Jug weighed 6.3 oz. Set the pressure, emptied the jug and double checked its weight, set timer, and away I went. At about 30 seconds the wires started getting warm. 40 seconds I could smell the motor, at 45 seconds I could see smoke, followed by some sparks and the strange scratchy electrical sound brushless motors make when they're jammed. Weighed it up and the new weight was 9.2oz, for 2.9oz. 2.9 x 1.25 for a full minute of running = 3.625. Or .03gpm, these were suppose to be rated for .028 At .03gpm that puts me at needing 8.3 injectors, I'm going to try 8 at first as the pump is more than capable of 3xs the 1,000psi rating. Plus I'll have a "wider" throttle range compared to, say, 10 injectors only running to 750psi. And here's the spray at 1,000psi I took the motor apart and chucked the shaft into a drill. Then turned the nozzle up and lit the spray with a lighter, had a very clean and hot flame, 0 smoke so I'd say it's atomizing pretty good. With my annulus combustor having a 4" mean diameter, that puts 8 injectors only 1.5" away from each other, at 56° spray angle, the nozzles spray will "meet" 1.4" away. But the spray will touch the inner and outer liner at only .94" away (1" annulus space, 3" inner, 5" outer) . Is the goal to have the primary holes where the spray would hit the liners? Or would it be better where the fuel spray is all "mixed in"?
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