greazy
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Post by greazy on Apr 15, 2022 17:01:05 GMT -5
Nope all still sitting in the shed un-touched. I don't currently have time unfortunately. Maybe in a year or so
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 24, 2021 22:18:02 GMT -5
Hi followers, Same old story with life getting in the way here we are almost a year later, I have pulled the pieces of this project from the shed and will start chipping away at it again. The combustion chamber has been made and drilled and if it requires re-designing so be it, its semi consumable anyways Next mission will be the fuel injection needles. This I have no idea about and am hoping someone could steer me in the right direction. I know I have a 70.5mm DIA compressor and 5 injectors but no idea on what gauge needle I might need or even what size to start with for testing? I haven’t sorted a pump yet but was hoping to use an EFI pump I think they are good for 120 PSI, I may need 2 for the mass flow. Link below is for eBay hypodermic needles with many different gauge flavours www.ebay.com.au/itm/142902429872?hash=item2145a608b0:g:cd8AAOSwdvxdrvdH&frcectupt=trueThanks & regards,
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jul 21, 2020 9:14:48 GMT -5
Yes there are 50 3mm holes in the primary and also 50 in the secodary and 2 rows in the final. I have split the zones evenly 1/3 each area.
I am considering making some short tubes for the inside of the c/c to punch the air into the middle. Maybe every 2nd hole of the upper row of the primary zone if that makes sense.
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jul 21, 2020 1:47:29 GMT -5
ok what are your thoughts on the cooling film holes (3mm) are they set too high/spaced appropriatley throughout the flametube??
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jul 20, 2020 19:58:03 GMT -5
hey everyone, using Rackets previous post as a guide i have come to a design in the picture attached any input to hole placment would be appreciated the total area is only about 30mm2 larger than the inducer area with the standard 30/20/50 split in areas
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 3:14:36 GMT -5
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 2:45:55 GMT -5
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 2:39:12 GMT -5
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 2:32:49 GMT -5
Alot has happened with this build without me posting. Usual excuses work and life getting in the way of hobbies. but stay tuned for a string of updates. I have made a vband style clamp and welded the suitable flanges to the combustion can. See pics below This was for ease of removal as undoing an entire ring of flange bolts just to inspect the inside drove wild especially during the test and tune phase. Made all the parts from stainless steel plate plasmacut and machined. Final thoughts.. I don't recommend fabricating as it took ages but the result is great
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Apr 9, 2018 8:07:43 GMT -5
i found a few spare hours and welded up the evap tubes .9mm ss is not easy to weld but with a very sharp tungston and some steady hands i got them glued up. i also machined a collar to accept the flametube for the cone and welded it on. i then drilled holes and tacked the evaps in place for welding hopefully tomorrow hoping people are finding this thread usefull. i feel like i never take enough pics during fabrication so if i miss something usefull let me know and ill try be a bit more detailed about it. cheers ryan
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Mar 13, 2018 9:07:35 GMT -5
Over the last few days i managed to cut and tack the vaporizers tubes together. to get perfect 45 degree cuts identical on all the tubes (total of 20 cuts) i made a guide jig from 40mm roundbar. it has the mitre cut on one end and a hole up the guts for a snug fit with the tube. then i just poke it out the correct distance and use a 1mm cutting disk on the grinder keeping the disk flush with the roundbar, and it worked beautifully. ill purge the tubes and fuseweld them without filler wire when i get a chance. I also made the cone for the flametube base it still needs a slipring welded to the top before it gets attached to the lid. probably the last update for a while im off to tie the knot this weekend so no shed time for a while ryan
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 28, 2018 3:03:44 GMT -5
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 27, 2018 6:44:17 GMT -5
~1.5 times the tubing diameter should be sufficient clearance between the outflow end and the wall , but you'll need to consider your wall hole positioning wall hole positioning??? do you mean the vaporizer inlets or the flametube air hole positioning. ryan
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 26, 2018 23:55:30 GMT -5
ok thanks. the pic below is how i will lay them out black holes represent outlets one ladt question before i make the vaporizers. how much room should i leave between the outlets and the back plate? i was going to leave about 20 mm is this enough room or should i go with a bigger gap?
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 26, 2018 19:02:56 GMT -5
here is a bit better mockup with the black dots actual size of vaporizers dotted circle around them the spray area apon exhausting from tube and the number options for the inlets
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