userscott
Junior Member
Joined: March 2019
Posts: 96
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Post by userscott on Aug 26, 2020 10:38:37 GMT -5
Hi Thomas! Thanks for that information... I will make a few plans and see what I come up with using your guidance. I would be very interested in the pulse generator your friend sells if possible. Could you ask?? Cheers Scott
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Sweetenough
Veteran Member
Joined: April 2016
Posts: 121
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Post by Sweetenough on Aug 26, 2020 15:37:27 GMT -5
Hi Scott, See link: wp.linusn.net/shop/Then klick "Tändsystem för jetmotor" and you will se the product. Unfortnuattly it seems to be out of stock. Will ask him if/when he will have units to sell. Easy to install, just a 12VDC power supply and there are outputs for 2 ignition coils. Kind regards Thomas
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jetric
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2014
Posts: 132
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Post by jetric on Aug 27, 2020 7:00:59 GMT -5
Hi Scott, Just install a spark plug as per the plans I sent you, Make sure the spark plug is in the same position as per the plans and use a spark plug that has no inbuilt resistor such as a NGK C7HSA, Power the spark plug using one of these spark generators; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Step-up-Boost-Power-Module-High-voltage-Generator-Converter-DC-3v-6v-to-400kV/263982117527?hash=item3d768f7297:g:rfIAAOSwmpBdJzpg Ensure you use a 5volt 4amp step down voltage regulator to power the spark generator as this is a common mistake that people make with these units as they try to power them with 12volts with disastrous consequences. The best step down voltage regulators that I have found are the ones that are used for radio controlled models such as; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-5A-8-26v-BEC-SBEC-for-Lipo/174393687208?hash=item289aac7ca8:g:facAAOSwYltfKXa0 These are called SBEC units, Switching,Battery,Eliminator,Circuit. Wire your spark generator so that it is on when the A/B fuel pump is on, that way if the A/B goes out it will instantly relight it (something the hot streak system wont do automatically!) I have never had any problems with this spark plug system on my engines. With regards to drilling your holes in the fuel rail have you center punched the positions on the fuel rail, also use a slow drill speed with plenty of pressure on the drill with only 5mm of the drill tip sticking out of the chuck and some cutting fluid. Hope this helps, Richard S. Hi Thomas! Thanks for that information... I will make a few plans and see what I come up with using your guidance. I would be very interested in the pulse generator your friend sells if possible. Could you ask?? Cheers Scott
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userscott
Junior Member
Joined: March 2019
Posts: 96
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Post by userscott on Aug 27, 2020 8:29:34 GMT -5
Hi Scott, Just install a spark plug as per the plans I sent you, Make sure the spark plug is in the same position as per the plans and use a spark plug that has no inbuilt resistor such as a NGK C7HSA, Power the spark plug using one of these spark generators; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Step-up-Boost-Power-Module-High-voltage-Generator-Converter-DC-3v-6v-to-400kV/263982117527?hash=item3d768f7297:g:rfIAAOSwmpBdJzpg Ensure you use a 5volt 4amp step down voltage regulator to power the spark generator as this is a common mistake that people make with these units as they try to power them with 12volts with disastrous consequences. The best step down voltage regulators that I have found are the ones that are used for radio controlled models such as; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-5A-8-26v-BEC-SBEC-for-Lipo/174393687208?hash=item289aac7ca8:g:facAAOSwYltfKXa0 These are called SBEC units, Switching,Battery,Eliminator,Circuit. Wire your spark generator so that it is on when the A/B fuel pump is on, that way if the A/B goes out it will instantly relight it (something the hot streak system wont do automatically!) I have never had any problems with this spark plug system on my engines. With regards to drilling your holes in the fuel rail have you center punched the positions on the fuel rail, also use a slow drill speed with plenty of pressure on the drill with only 5mm of the drill tip sticking out of the chuck and some cutting fluid. Hope this helps, Richard S. Hi Thomas! Thanks for that information... I will make a few plans and see what I come up with using your guidance. I would be very interested in the pulse generator your friend sells if possible. Could you ask?? Cheers Scott Richard That's a great help. I've ordered all the items in your list and some new, high quality bits to replace what I suspect are poor quality ones I've purchased. I will fit it as per your diagram - I would prefer the sparker system in truth. Is that sparker system from eBay designed to run continuously do you know? I'm away until next week but hopefully by next Wednesday this thing will be pretty close to totally finished.. Last night I got the parachute adjusted to suit the A/B. Ah the wonders of railways..... and rail cars total inability to stop Cheers, Scott
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jetric
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2014
Posts: 132
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Post by jetric on Aug 27, 2020 20:40:10 GMT -5
Hi Scott, The Ebay sparker units do get hot after 10mins running so don't mount it inside a box as you need air circulating around the unit to cool it (it will only get warm at the end where the resin has been poured in, probably where the mosfets are inside the unit) but for the limited time that we run our A/Bs this is ok. You will need to increase the sparkplug gap to around 5mm (DO NOT snap off/remove the earth electrode on the sparkplug) also use silicone insulated or PTFE insulated wire for the H/T wire to the sparkplug as the radiant heat from the A/B is quite substantial!!! Richard S. Hi Scott, Just install a spark plug as per the plans I sent you, Make sure the spark plug is in the same position as per the plans and use a spark plug that has no inbuilt resistor such as a NGK C7HSA, Power the spark plug using one of these spark generators; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Step-up-Boost-Power-Module-High-voltage-Generator-Converter-DC-3v-6v-to-400kV/263982117527?hash=item3d768f7297:g:rfIAAOSwmpBdJzpg Ensure you use a 5volt 4amp step down voltage regulator to power the spark generator as this is a common mistake that people make with these units as they try to power them with 12volts with disastrous consequences. The best step down voltage regulators that I have found are the ones that are used for radio controlled models such as; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-5A-8-26v-BEC-SBEC-for-Lipo/174393687208?hash=item289aac7ca8:g:facAAOSwYltfKXa0 These are called SBEC units, Switching,Battery,Eliminator,Circuit. Wire your spark generator so that it is on when the A/B fuel pump is on, that way if the A/B goes out it will instantly relight it (something the hot streak system wont do automatically!) I have never had any problems with this spark plug system on my engines. With regards to drilling your holes in the fuel rail have you center punched the positions on the fuel rail, also use a slow drill speed with plenty of pressure on the drill with only 5mm of the drill tip sticking out of the chuck and some cutting fluid. Hope this helps, Richard S. Richard That's a great help. I've ordered all the items in your list and some new, high quality bits to replace what I suspect are poor quality ones I've purchased. I will fit it as per your diagram - I would prefer the sparker system in truth. Is that sparker system from eBay designed to run continuously do you know? I'm away until next week but hopefully by next Wednesday this thing will be pretty close to totally finished.. Last night I got the parachute adjusted to suit the A/B. Ah the wonders of railways..... and rail cars total inability to stop Cheers, Scott
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userscott
Junior Member
Joined: March 2019
Posts: 96
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Post by userscott on Sept 6, 2020 17:28:48 GMT -5
Richard, I followed your advice with the SBEC and the generator and the performance was exceptional - far better than the earlier units I'd tried. I have built it into a nice system all neatly done so we will see how she lasts..! I'm really hoping to get one of the modules from the friend of Thomas/Sweetenough as my main sparking unit is just awful and I want to put this issue to bed once and for all, it seems the simplest thing is causing the biggest headaches. As you've probably guessed from the build pictures I want everything to be solid, and reasonably well engineered, so the jury rig sparkers are really killing me right now! SO! I got a bit impatient and tried to run the engine without the A/B ignitor in. It ran quite well without the A/B but I just couldn't light it by stalling the engine so I decided to postpone pending the installation of the plug - now complete. I stopped the running after about 30 minutes when I heard a rattling sound in the engine. Whoops - what could this be? Turned out I'd used a brass fitting as part of my gas nozzle extension piece and it had melted. Cue a full strip down of the entire engine and turbo, and offending bits removed - thankfully no damage whatsoever. Whoops.... the only bit of brass on the whole thing. Now then. I fitted a P2 gauge and kept my eye on all the temperatures. To be honest, I never got her to go past 1 bar, maybe 0.9 bar. Temperatures never exceeded 300 degrees anywhere, so I really think she's under-performing. It feels like a lack of fuel, and so I think I need to go up on the nozzle which should be fun.. I've enclosed a photo of my FT to show the heat affected zone. It seems in the right place? The only odd thing - after extended running my end cap glows red. I'm wondering if there is an issue along the lines of what John warned about many moons ago - that fuel is bouncing back and hitting the end tube. I have a very short/wide throw fuel nozzle...... Starting it is an absolute dog due to the sparker. I actually take the plug out and light it with a plumbers torch.... Got to get a proper, decent, reliable sparker sorted........... PS - this is my nozzle. It's a hollow cone, misting nozzle. I'm wondering if it might not be suitable......! www.mcmaster.com/3178K51/ Up from that size for a bolt for bolt fit, I'd have to switch to brass and 9.49 gph. The max temp is 180F (82C) so I suspect it has no chance.. www.mcmaster.com/3178K67/
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 9, 2020 4:40:50 GMT -5
Scot, would a 10gph 80 deg hollow cone burner nozzle work for you or what is your ideal gph and angle? www.ebay.de/itm/383240919007Ben (also in the uk )
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userscott
Junior Member
Joined: March 2019
Posts: 96
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Post by userscott on Sept 9, 2020 19:20:09 GMT -5
Scot, would a 10gph 80 deg hollow cone burner nozzle work for you or what is your ideal gph and angle? www.ebay.de/itm/383240919007Ben (also in the uk ) Hey Ben Cheers for the link. I currently have a 160 degree nozzle but it's actually a real bad idea. It bounces loads of fuel back towards the cap. I've ordered that one you've sent, I think I need to double my GPH and have to change from 180 degree to something more sensible. I'll make a new adaptor to fit the nozzle and go from there... the one you've sent seems perfect to be honest so cheers. Scott
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 10, 2020 1:25:17 GMT -5
That fluidics nozzle is 9/16-24 unef from what I've read but the tap isn't that expensive on ebay anyway. I'll be using the 15gph one if the seller tells me what happened to the listing that ended unsold lmao (if not the 14gph will have to do)
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 10, 2020 5:56:44 GMT -5
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Post by sauerkraut on Sept 11, 2020 1:37:26 GMT -5
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 23, 2020 14:06:15 GMT -5
Knocked up a rough draft today of some of the pipework.. Still not sure where to put the fuel tank.. Flange to CC. I think it's a bit long overall, I might shorten it.. Scott, Three quick questions for you. Firstly what size pipe is that on the for the flange elbow, secondly how did you go about going from the pipe to rectangular flange and thirdly how did you deal with the fact the flange has rounded corners and the pipe connection is 90° corners? Ben
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userscott
Junior Member
Joined: March 2019
Posts: 96
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Post by userscott on Oct 3, 2020 6:35:16 GMT -5
Knocked up a rough draft today of some of the pipework.. Still not sure where to put the fuel tank.. Flange to CC. I think it's a bit long overall, I might shorten it.. Scott, Three quick questions for you. Firstly what size pipe is that on the for the flange elbow, secondly how did you go about going from the pipe to rectangular flange and thirdly how did you deal with the fact the flange has rounded corners and the pipe connection is 90° corners? Ben Hi Ben, The elbow pipe is from memory, 4" and is available on eBay for around £25. For making the round to square, I drew out a rectangle of a size that matched the flange ports, measured the length of each side, then drew this onto my section of straight pipe. IE 80 mm x 2 and 40 mm x 2 or whatever it was. I drew it out equally on the end of the section of straight pipe, then on the bits of metal that weren't accounted for by an 80 or a 40 mm (or whatever it was) I simply notched that out in a V shape using an angle grinder. I then heated and hammered the 80 and 40 mm bits flat and then welded them together, before adding a rectangle shaped bit of stainless to extend the rectangular bit to make space for the bolt heads. The flange has a radius you're correct, and my pipe has something close to 90 degrees indeed - but I took the view that the change in shape would be (as they say) f**k all in a big ship. In practise the difference in radius was marginal and so it's never caused any bother! Let me know if you need any more advice, I've got tons of pics of making the above. Cheers Scott
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userscott
Junior Member
Joined: March 2019
Posts: 96
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Post by userscott on Oct 3, 2020 6:47:39 GMT -5
Hi all, General update! I took the advice from Ben for the fluidics nozzle from the German eBay seller. It was a massive nozzle and needed a bit of rework to get it into the housing but it didn't take long.. I assembled a pair of sparker units as per Jetrics (Richard S) advice to match my afterburner that was also built in accordance with the drawings Richard kindly provided, and made a few small modifications here and there to the rest of the system. I got to take her out at about 2100 last night and test it. With the modifications to the gas system (a new regulator for the starting fuel bottle) and the revised propane delivery tube (see above pic) it instantly ignited on the first attempt. I popped the kerosene on, she immediately spun up and sat at 2 bar P2... and on the first press of the afterburner ignition it lit up and stayed lit until I released the switch! I was absolutely gobsmacked. About the only issue, is that the minute you fire up the afterburner it immediately starts trying to shoot forwards rather aggressively - and this was in a yard with the handbrake on and the wheels deep inside ruts in the broken tarmac surface... so I have no idea what she's going to be like on rails where we have basically nil resistance but... let's see just how wild it is in action! She emptied her 25 litre tank quite promptly, and the new nozzle is just wild - I have to start her at about 5 percent throttle but there's just so much headroom there. I can get 2.5 bar P2 quite easily out of her but obviously it gets a bit scary! We stopped due to an empty tank after about 8 minutes of running and called it a day. So there we have it - she is complete. Every system functioned as intended, oil pump and cooler worked a treat with a max temp of 40 degrees in the oil, she held 40 psi throughout (exactly as per Holset manual) and all other control gear worked a treat - so that's that - complete!... now to find somewhere to run it! Brief video of her running is here: http://instagram.com/p/CF3CeWSj38j So for now, a big thank you to John and Richard, and all the others on here who've helped complete this wonderful project!
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 3, 2020 7:23:50 GMT -5
Hi Scott thanks for the info, I think I'm gonna do a rectangular profile elbow and figure out the potential issue of the rounded flange vs 90° elbow corner when I get to it.
Did you do any mods to the nozzle as I'm now getting a delevan 6 gph 80° hollow cone as when I spoke to a dealer of the fluidics one they said it isn't suitable for kerosene which obviously isn't the case with that beautiful beast!
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