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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 9, 2020 6:02:17 GMT -5
Well I finially found a bargain on ebay, a minimial use 85mm Garrett TV81 from a detroit diesel genny selling for £90! Comp wheel - Ind. 85.29 mm, Exd. 107.95 mm, 8+8 Blades Tubine wheel - Ind. 111.40 mm, Exd. 97.10 mm, 11 Blades For those who like to browse tech sheets -
Couldn't measure the turbine wheel, calipers weren't big enough! For the flame tube and combustion chamber according to the 3x area I'd need a 6"x500mm F/T (don't shoot me for how I like to use metric and imperial at the same time  ) and to allow for a 1" gap a 8" C/C. I found a place near me which strips buses and trucks for the engines and whilst it isn't a scrapyard as per se and open to the public, one of the workers there was kind enough to let me look around for parts as he took an interest in this project. First thing I managed to get was a approx 8"x600mm air tank from a bus (yes i went there after work in nice shoes so trust me I was playing minesweeper with where I was stepping in the oil puddles lol), then i found a 5" v-band and 3.5" flexible coupling and band clamps for the compressor outlet
I also saw this odd thing mounted to the tubine side of a turbo on one of the stripped engines, is it some sort of freepower setup however the finned object on the end has only one pipe on it?
Anyway my plan after asking tormenting  with questions our resident guru John (Racket) I have decided on a C/C that is aligned axially with the turbo using a 100mm (can be bigger if need be) radius on the inside curve i.e; For the main parts I'll use :-
Oil pump - Ford kent crossflow 1600 oil pump from ebay for £30 (will modify the bypass spring to bring it up to ~70psi from current ~40psi)
Burner nozzle - 15gph required for inducer area I think, did find a 15gph 80 deg hollow cone however seller has suddenly unlisted it for unknown reasons (approx £25 from Germany) Fuel pump - something around 150psi to give 100 to the nozzle and have room for the C/C pressure of around 40psi.
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jetric
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2014
Posts: 147 
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Post by jetric on Sept 9, 2020 7:37:45 GMT -5
Hi Ben, That Exhaust thing on that turbo is a exhaust brake, this is a valve that completely blocks off the exhaust in order to increase the engine braking effect when the lorry is slowing down, also these valves do no good to the turbo as they put an axial load on the turbine end sealing piston rings, every turbo that I have stripped that had this valve fitted the turbine end piston rings were shot and worn to a 'L' cross section. Richard S. Derby,UK. Well I finially found a bargain on ebay, a minimial use 85mm Garrett TV81 from a detroit diesel genny selling for £90! Comp wheel - Ind. 85.29 mm, Exd. 107.95 mm, 8+8 Blades Tubine wheel - Ind. 111.40 mm, Exd. 97.10 mm, 11 Blades For those who like to browse tech sheets -
Couldn't measure the turbine wheel, calipers weren't big enough! For the flame tube and combustion chamber according to the 3x area I'd need a 6"x500mm F/T (don't shoot me for how I like to use metric and imperial at the same time ) and to allow for a 1" gap a 8" C/C. I found a place near me which strips buses and trucks for the engines and whilst it isn't a scrapyard as per se and open to the public, one of the workers there was kind enough to let me look around for parts as he took an interest in this project. First thing I managed to get was a approx 8"x600mm air tank from a bus (yes i went there after work in nice shoes so trust me I was playing minesweeper with where I was stepping in the oil puddles lol), then i found a 5" v-band and 3.5" flexible coupling and band clamps for the compressor outlet
I also saw this odd thing mounted to the tubine side of a turbo on one of the stripped engines, is it some sort of freepower setup however the finned object on the end has only one pipe on it?
Anyway my plan after asking tormenting with questions our resident guru John (Racket) I have decided on a C/C that is aligned axially with the turbo using a 100mm (can be bigger if need be) radius on the inside curve i.e; For the main parts I'll use :-
Oil pump - Ford kent crossflow 1600 oil pump from ebay for £30 (will modify the bypass spring to bring it up to ~70psi from current ~40psi)
Burner nozzle - 15gph required for inducer area I think, did find a 15gph 80 deg hollow cone however seller has suddenly unlisted it for unknown reasons (approx £25 from Germany) Fuel pump - something around 150psi to give 100 to the nozzle and have room for the C/C pressure of around 40psi.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 9, 2020 10:35:47 GMT -5
Thanks for that info Richard, learned something new ha. Update on the turbo side of the build - took the mess of fittings/oil inlet flange to work and the engineers confirmed that it is a 1/4npt extension piece with a 90° npt to bsp fitting (I think that's what they said for the elbow part) To save some hassle I'm going to buy a 1/4npt to 3/8bsp male to female adapter then a 3/8bsp to 15mm compression fitting and will use 15mm copper pipe for the oil lines, unless anyone has any objections/suggestions?  www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111430856008 1/4npt to 3/8bsp www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121742086115 |
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 10, 2020 13:07:48 GMT -5
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 11, 2020 8:08:49 GMT -5
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 12, 2020 16:30:01 GMT -5
Well I got a pair of air compressors from a small bus with pneumatic doors, one is 100% duty cycle 12v 20a and the other is 6 minutes duty cycle 12v 30a. Managed to strip the continuous use one to the bare parts and the motor is perfect for the oil pump as its a 12mm 1 flat shaft running at 1/4hp ±3000rpm (so with pump load 2800rpm I'd guess)    Though if I can find a similar motor that's more compact (any suggestions?) I'll put the compressor back together and use that as brand new it's over £250 and was getting scrapped lmao |
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Post by slittlewing on Sept 16, 2020 15:02:08 GMT -5
I like your part choices and congratulations on getting the monster turbo! I even felt tempted to nab the second one even though I have absolutely no use for it and plenty of other things to be getting on with 😂😂 how much does it weigh?!
Look forward to seeing the build progress.
In terms of oil lines to/from turbo, the drain line should be large diameter and vertically point downwards. I used some 15mm copper on my first engine attempt for the drain. The feed line can be smaller, whatever you prefer working with and find easy to mate to your oil pump/filter outlet. I prefer JIC due to the multitude of bsp coned/parallel/dowty sealed etc making adapting often a ball ache and expensive.
Cheers
Scott
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 16, 2020 18:42:15 GMT -5
Hi Scott, It's about 25-30kg lol.   I purchased a standard gasket from eBay for £2 lol, should fit nicely for now. The setup I went for is a 1/4 npt to 3/8bsp male to female adapter and a 3/8 bsp to 15mm compression fitting. I'll be using 15mm copper pipe for maximum flow though there will be the obvious restriction at these fittings anyway but the rest of the system will be fine. As for instruments I was thinking of making a 15mm dia 20mm long steel plug which I'd drill and tap 1/8 bsp or 1/8 npt depending on what the instrument requires and have a line of 15mm compression tee's with each one having the tapped plug in so it'll be oil temp, oil pressure and the oil pressure switch for the fuel relay. Was thinking of using a 4 way compression cross however pretty expensive and wouldn't flow into the cross internal so temp reading might be off/slow to change. |
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 16, 2020 19:55:55 GMT -5
As for the fuel system I am going with a pwm setup thanks to racket changing my mind! Pump - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283775812644 0.8ml/r one Pwm controller - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153981949598Motor - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143132559121Bypass set to approx 600psi - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333647540297 or www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312804979745Nozzle - www.ebay.de/itm/383240917375My plan is to use a low ml/r pump so that the throttle curve is nice and long and not so sensitive that it's just on or off lol. Basically that 0.8 pump will run around 0.7ml/r when you factor is the volumetric efficiency stated meaning to reach the full 15-15.5gph I require it needs to spin at 1350rpm. But since I don't want to overfuel and thus overspeed the engine I'll run it slightly below max gph since its a fixed displacement pump I can control the maximum flow rate. So if I run at 14.8gph that is 56L/h which is 0.93L/m so at 0.7ml/r I'd need an rpm of 930/0.7 = around 1330rpm max. Since I want to run every on 12v for simplicity then I'd need 12v at 1330rpm but that's 1330rpm under load so no load is around 1500rpm for a rough guess which you'll not find without paying a pretty penny for. Therefore if you double the 1500 you get 3000rpm which you can find running on 24v. So running a 24v motor on 12v will roughly drop the rpm by 50% so 1500rpm and with load maybe around 1350rpm which is almost perfectly the 1330 required however the rpm losses will probably be lower say 1280 so 1280*0.7 = 0.896*60 = 53.76L/h aka 14.2gph. This is all guesswork but I'm pretty happy with it and logically it makes sense since max motor rpm = max required flow rate so no overfueling or sensitive throttle response. |
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 19, 2020 9:32:13 GMT -5
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 19, 2020 10:58:21 GMT -5
 Only took an hour of grinding but all cleaned of paint n'rust on the outside, inside can just be left to burn off or sandblasted, depends on how much I hate myself lol |
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 22, 2020 13:22:16 GMT -5
Pwm speed controller arrived, certainly had went a few rounds with the shipping company but just cosmetic damage and otherwise works.  Question for you all - what do you use for sealing between flanges if you used a flange setup for opening up the c/c for f/t access, solid gasket paper or sealant like www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123126491649 |
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Post by sauerkraut on Sept 22, 2020 15:12:53 GMT -5
Originally I didn't use anything on mine, but I had one spot where air was leaking out so I threw some Permatex red on it. Less than ideal but it works just fine.
Had I planned ahead I would have simply put more bolts around the thing, or I would have cut an aluminum gasket if I wanted to be really thorough. I wouldn't put faith in a paper gasket when dealing with a mix of metal this hot and fuel.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Sept 22, 2020 16:31:13 GMT -5
Forgot about metal gaskets, aluminium would probably melt so copper would be a better option imo. I'll probably be using that hylomar blue for sealing my lube/fuel fittings or the corresponding setting version hylomar red I think,wonder if they're suitable for the flanges otherwise more bolts or copper
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Post by racket on Sept 22, 2020 16:40:59 GMT -5
Plenty of bolts with thick flat machined flanges and no need for anything
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) and to allow for a 1" gap a 8" C/C.
with questions our resident guru John (Racket) I have decided on a C/C that is aligned axially with the turbo using a 100mm (can be bigger if need be) radius on the inside curve i.e;
