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Post by andym on Feb 8, 2021 2:09:57 GMT -5
Nope, I’m afraid this one hasn’t been purged. However I’m hopeful it’ll be fine!    The reason for changing from the old flanges was that the surfaces on those are all parallel. So the clamps angled sides can’t pinch down on anything because there isn’t a “V” to speak of. I can see attempt to seal it using silicone/Alu foil, maybe a shim would work but the new flanges avoid the need for that.    There will be a difference due to thermal expansion coefficients but it works out at 0.48mm over the diameter (so 0.24mm per side) which is pretty small. I guess it’s an experiment! Scott... as i have said, same as all others and none have had problems, |
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Post by slittlewing on Feb 8, 2021 4:07:03 GMT -5
Fair play, to be honest I wouldn’t have bothered but I had to make up a new flange for the cone I rolled and they were “off the shelf” flanges 👍
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Post by slittlewing on Feb 8, 2021 4:12:38 GMT -5
Hi Scott Do you have any sort of rebate on your mounting flange to provide concentricity with the engine exhaust , I normally have some sort of projection jetandturbineowners.proboards.com/attachment/download/222 . Andys original A/B had that length of slipjoint that provided concentricity as well as sealing of the gases , a flat Vband flange isn't the best to provide/maintain concentricity especially at the heats the A/B attains , the Vband clamp will possibly "loosen" during use and the flanges get out of alignment. Cheers John Hi John, Yes absolutely 🙂 The machined flanges have a groove in one side and a lip on the other that mates to maintain concentricity 👍 Cheers Scott |
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Post by racket on Feb 8, 2021 18:01:46 GMT -5
Excellent
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Post by andym on Feb 8, 2021 18:20:45 GMT -5
Hi Scott Do you have any sort of rebate on your mounting flange to provide concentricity with the engine exhaust , I normally have some sort of projection jetandturbineowners.proboards.com/attachment/download/222 . Andys original A/B had that length of slipjoint that provided concentricity as well as sealing of the gases , a flat Vband flange isn't the best to provide/maintain concentricity especially at the heats the A/B attains , the Vband clamp will possibly "loosen" during use and the flanges get out of alignment. Cheers John Hi John, Yes absolutely 🙂 The machined flanges have a groove in one side and a lip on the other that mates to maintain concentricity 👍 Cheers Scott May be, but will not give you the strenght that the engagement of the slip joint did..... yes the part of the V band union you have has the grove to maintain concentricity..... bit the turbine section exhaust dont have the grove that it should mate to ? |
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Post by slittlewing on Feb 9, 2021 3:53:22 GMT -5
Correct, that’s why I have the mating flange with lip to go on the turbine side too. With the machined flanges and corresponding clamp I don’t foresee any issues with connection strength.
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Post by slittlewing on Apr 9, 2021 13:36:33 GMT -5
Well after 5 months of ballache I have finally moved house. Unfortunately I’m only “half way there” as haven’t found something I want to buy so I’m renting a place for the next 3 months or so. Anyway the good news is it has an amazing garage/workshop “on the side” .... Hopefully this will help me get the kart AB mods finished in the near future 🙂   Cheers Scott |
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Post by racket on Apr 9, 2021 17:00:36 GMT -5
Hi Scott
Moving house is so disruptive , certainly no more for me , I could never face packing up my workshop again , too much crap :-)
We all want to see the kart at full speed with that big A/B thundering away this year , with Covid restrictions easing in the UK now that you've got vaccinations well underway, and with summer coming , it just might be possible.
Cheers
John
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Post by slittlewing on Apr 9, 2021 20:03:38 GMT -5
Totally agree John, it’s a PITA and I don’t even have any heavy machinery like lathe or milling machine yet!! Anyway the good news is that I have lots of unused holiday to take from work so hopefully I’ll have some good garage time this spring.
I just remembered I forgot to post this video I made a few months back!
Cheers
Scott
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Post by racket on Apr 9, 2021 20:51:37 GMT -5
Hi Scott
If the kart can't get that record I'll have to give up this hobby .
Andy did an absolutely beautiful job of the engine and kart , gotta be the best DIY build ever , I'm really honoured that I was a small part of it .
You won't be able to wipe the smile off your face after a full bore run :-)
Cheers
John
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Post by slittlewing on Apr 9, 2021 21:57:54 GMT -5
😂😂😂 I better hope it gets the record then for all our sakes haha
Couldn’t agree more, the engine is a thing of beauty.
Absolutely, I am getting quite excited at the prospect of even just firing it up. I imagine the noise will be monstrous with the AB aswell 😁
One way of making friends with the new neighbours I suppose!!!
Cheers
Scott
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Post by slittlewing on Apr 10, 2021 8:20:27 GMT -5
Well after waking up early I figured I might aswell go and work on the kart as I was excited about it. I finished getting the AB welded, removed the engine and fitted the new v band collar. It was a perfect interference fit before welding  The AB length remains identical so the old “stays”/mount that triangulate it still fit nicely. All that remains to do is make a 8AN line to the fuel pump and wire in my PWM box!       Cheers Scott |
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Post by racket on Apr 10, 2021 17:30:01 GMT -5
Hi Scott
Always nice to see things reassembled :-)
Try not to make the A/B "pop and bang" , its "heavy calibre" , your neighbours will think you've got the 12 bore out and will call the police :-(
I can feel the enthusiasm building for a first spoolup .
Cheers
John
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Post by slittlewing on Apr 21, 2021 15:34:49 GMT -5
Hi All, I have been pretty busy the last week or so finishing off the mods to the kart and afterburner. The new AB fuel ring is now plumbed to the 044 pump via 8AN line, a quick coupler allowing dry disconnect and a “high flow” non return valve. I have wired in the “universal PWM tester” I made previously to the AB pump, made an enclosure and mounted it next to the seat above the pumps. By turning the pot on the lid, I can alter PWM from zero to maximum and control the pump speed and fuel delivery. I have also wired in a switch on the steering wheel and a pressure sensor to measure P2 so that I can later do automatic “button press” AB fuelling based on P2 if everything works successfully. The kart is now rigged up as a “half way house” with mechanical fuel control on the engine and this mini ECU for the AB.     I noticed whilst testing the AB pump (dry, little current) and main engine spark that the oil pump speed lowered when these other parts were in use. I wanted to be able to adjust the oil pump if needed so connected to the vesc BLDC controller using my laptop and the latest software. It wouldn’t let me communicate with the vesc until i updated the firmware which also wiped the all the existing settings. I did a new scratch vesc setup and during that was able to change to “current control” instead of voltage control. After also reprogramming the polulu servo board which Andy fitted (provides the servo signal to vesc) the oil pump is now operating at fixed current equating to 5bar seemingly regardless of these other loads (fingers crossed anyway). The vesc is a great piece of kit and this mode may make it possible to run the oil system without a regulator in future. Cheers Scott |
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Post by racket on Apr 21, 2021 20:11:53 GMT -5
Hi Scott
Looking ready to fire up :-)
Yep , battery current can be a problem , I had no end of problems with the 12/118 engine as battery power "wavered" when the starter motor was activated , once a dedicated battery pack was used , things behaved themselves , it can be very frustrating trying to solve "issues" if the battery power isn't "over engineered" , at least during the early stages of development when there can be lotsa unknowns, once sorted we can cut back a bit as any shortcomings can be easily recognised .
Looking forward to your first spoolup vid :-)
Cheers
John
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