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Post by turbojet atv on Jun 24, 2021 3:37:49 GMT -5
the copper gasket is something I’m doing already on the end plate. how does that adapter work? I looked at a diagram recently about those adapters. They have a 1/8” oil in & a 1/4” air in? Is that the same as that body or did I look at a different body? I’m not sure how that’d work on my engine with a air in and oil in. -Cullen
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ausjet
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 133
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Post by ausjet on Jun 24, 2021 4:35:17 GMT -5
the copper gasket is something I’m doing already on the end plate. how does that adapter work? I looked at a diagram recently about those adapters. They have a 1/8” oil in & a 1/4” air in? Is that the same as that body or did I look at a different body? I’m not sure how that’d work on my engine with a air in and oil in. -Cullen The 1/4” thread on the end is the main fuel supply and the 1/8” thread port of the side is for the fuel bypass. So you supply full fuel pump pressure to the 1/4” port and throttle the bypass port. Bypass closed will give you full throttle, bypass fully open allows most of the fuel to return to tank letting your engine idle. The fuel flow specs with bypass open/closed etc are in that delevan link
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Post by turbojet atv on Jul 4, 2021 2:44:42 GMT -5
Hello everyone, checking in with y’all to report that material delays have struck hard and getting parts in now have become a nightmare. Well certain parts at least. To add to the parts delay are small steps backwards as I’ve had to do some redesigning of the engine layout in the chassis. The header going to the turbo was going right through my steering stem and front shock area. That’s a no go for me. So I’m going to try and turn the engine 90° and have the engine sideways in my chassis or I might flip is completely 180° around. Still working that process out. It also got me thing about the sister engine. How would it fit in such a small space? Well that’s on the drawing board now. It’s not impossible luckily, just some very good packaging is about to take place. My cylinder for engine 2; “the sister engine”, should be here in a week. I’ll shoot over pics so y’all can understand the madness in my head. In the meantime while I’m waiting for engine 2s cylinder to get here, I fabricated a 4qt oil cell out of a old fire extinguisher and some scrap stainless steel. It has a external breather/catch tank to vent hot gasses being made for it. I figured it could help a little bit. Here’s a pic of the oil tank in mid fabrication process & the chassis with the sister engines turbo. Another 106mm performance turbo. Might as well increase the head right? 😉 hahaha 212mms of turbo combined! Both will feed my transmission, both will have individual bleed valves to control themselves on startup. Engine one will feed engine 2 on the start up process with bleed air. I read that in a engine guide for some jet engine. One will start up fully and then bleed air will start the other engines. more will come shortly -Cullen
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Post by racket on Jul 4, 2021 17:22:01 GMT -5
Hi Cullen
With 2 turbos you'll be needing a bit more oil capacity I feel , otherwise you'll need very good deairation and cooling .
As for one engine starting the other ...............complications :-(
Cheers John
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Post by turbojet atv on Jul 4, 2021 21:29:22 GMT -5
Hey John
I can find another extinguisher; one for each engine, so each each can have 4qts each. I only had one at the time but it’s still early so I can easily make a second oil tank. Probably be best cause the twin engine should heat that oil up a lot? I’m not actually sure how hot it’ll get. Just in case I’ll go ahead and build a second tank.
The idea for using engine one to start engine two was a thought I was just tossing around in my head. It sounds nice but it could cause problems like you said. Now I’m thinking about what could happen, it makes sense to start them separately. Engine one could possibly “stall out” while trying to start engine 2.
-Cullen
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Post by racket on Jul 4, 2021 21:41:33 GMT -5
Hi Cullen
A few minutes running and 4 quarts will be hot
Cheers John
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Post by turbojet atv on Jul 5, 2021 2:39:45 GMT -5
Hey John,
Even with the short run times I’ll have going down the track I’ll go ahead and build a second oil tank for the 2nd engine. Hopefully that will keep them relatively warm and not boiling hot.
What pump are you using for your oil feed? I’ve got a 3.2l gpm pump laying around my shop from an old build. If that will feed one engine good, I can easily get another to feed my other engine. My turbos have -6an inlet fittings, just to put that out in case it’s different on your diesel turbos.
-Cullen
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Post by racket on Jul 5, 2021 4:12:24 GMT -5
Hi Cullen
Its not only the amount of oil being supplied thats important , the pressure AT THE TURBO LUBE INLET is whats most important , so the pressure pickup MUST be at the turbo , NOT the pump .
I use a DIY pump constructed from a Subaru oilpump driven by a 12V motor , the auto pump has the filter and all the necessary relief valves as standard .
Cheers John
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slittlewing
Senior Member
Joined: November 2017
Posts: 458
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Post by slittlewing on Jul 5, 2021 7:07:12 GMT -5
Hi Cullen,
I am using an electric UP9 pump from a company called Marco but they aren't cheap. Most turbos want about 4bar oil pressure and you need more flow as the oil heats up. You could use a normal engine pump like John suggests or a hydraulic pump, and separate motor - you will need a strong pump now you have added a second turbo. In terms of Oil capacity, My jetbike is running about 1.2 Quarts capacity in a 2 quart tank but it has a big cooler and ducted radiator fans (that kick in over 55degC).
Cheers Scott
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ausjet
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 133
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Post by ausjet on Jul 5, 2021 7:56:10 GMT -5
Is it a ball bearing or journal turbocharger?
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Post by turbojet atv on Jul 5, 2021 17:13:41 GMT -5
Is it a ball bearing or journal turbocharger? It doesn’t specify wether it’s a ball or journal bearing. -cullen
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ausjet
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 133
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Post by ausjet on Jul 6, 2021 10:43:39 GMT -5
It’s an important thing to know, this will determine how much oil pressure you run, the size of oil pump to an extent and how much oil capacity you’ll need. Ball bearing turbos don’t need as much pressure or flow as your typical journal bearings. It’s common to use a restricter in the oil line of a ball bearing turbo to drop pressure to say 40-45psi. Give the comp wheel a flick, a ball bearing turbo will spin with ease and probably take half a dozen rotations to stop. A journal bearing turbo may only do 2-3 revolutions. Ball bearing turbos may also have cooling fins on the centre housing. You could also contact the supplier if still unsure- if it is a ball bearing turbo, ask them for the recommended oil pressure
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Post by turbojet atv on Jul 7, 2021 12:17:58 GMT -5
It’s an important thing to know, this will determine how much oil pressure you run, the size of oil pump to an extent and how much oil capacity you’ll need. Ball bearing turbos don’t need as much pressure or flow as your typical journal bearings. It’s common to use a restricter in the oil line of a ball bearing turbo to drop pressure to say 40-45psi. Give the comp wheel a flick, a ball bearing turbo will spin with ease and probably take half a dozen rotations to stop. A journal bearing turbo may only do 2-3 revolutions. Ball bearing turbos may also have cooling fins on the centre housing. You could also contact the supplier if still unsure- if it is a ball bearing turbo, ask them for the recommended oil pressure Called on3 and asked about the turbos. They’re journal bearing turbos & they use 30-40psi of oil pressure. -Cullen
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Post by racket on Jul 7, 2021 17:09:14 GMT -5
Hi Cullen
Remember its "warm oil" they're talking about with regards that pressure and suitable for less RPM/P2pressures , add on another 10 or 20 psi if you want to explore the upper limits of the RPM range with oil at less than optimum temperature .
Cheers John
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Post by turbojet atv on Jul 10, 2021 20:14:59 GMT -5
Hi guys, I received my cylinder for the combustion chamber for engine number 2. Now I can continue to build engine 2 as a mock-up engine only right now. I’ll only run one engine until I can perfect it and then transfer everything I learned on engine 1 to engine 2. Until then engine 2 will be a “blank” engine. Here’s how the bike will look with both engines. Both engines are horizontal with the chassis. Both engines sit outside the frame but custom mounts will be made to hold the engines in place. The center of the frame will hold both oil tanks, pumps and all the plumbing for the oil system. The whole oil system; minus the tanks, will sit on a carbon fiber plate to keep it clean and look pretty. I did make a second oil tank. I now have 2x 4qt oil tanks. One for each engine. I will need to finish engine 2 to make it identical to engine 1 so I can mount both engines to the frame and not have to back track and make chassis changes. Another thing I will be doing is I’ll be making a carbon fiber “blankets” or “covers” to go around 75% of the engines combustion chambers. Carbon fiber has a “good” tolerance for heat so in a way it’ll be a heat shield. -Cullen
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