gidge348
Senior Member
Joined: September 2010
Posts: 426
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Post by gidge348 on Jan 23, 2014 1:58:20 GMT -5
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jack
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Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 24, 2014 7:58:50 GMT -5
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gidge348
Senior Member
Joined: September 2010
Posts: 426
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Post by gidge348 on Jan 24, 2014 8:41:55 GMT -5
Ok Jack, just go slowly pulling it apart, yes they are "mechanically" very simple but because you are dealing with stuff that is spinning at 30,000 rpm plus they need to pay very close attention to spacers, washers, shims, clearences and any damage no matter how small. Every time you take something off photograph it, bag it and store it safely. I assume the last pic is the free power turbine shaft, don't let the blades get dinged or bent or the engine will be scrap. At the moment the insides pretty good. As for the broken fitting I would have just drilled it out with grease on the bit to catch the swarf and use an easy out to extract the broken end www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-pce-Screw-Stud-Bolt-Extractor-Remover-Set-Easy-Out-Tool-Kit-/180932533820It is probably a good time now to start looking for a manual for the engine, you don't want any more "ping" moments Ian...
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jack
Member
Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 24, 2014 12:02:43 GMT -5
Hi Ian, The shaft on the pic is the main shaft, the free power shaft comes off as a whole assembly together whit the back end of the oil sump. The 'ping' was a little gear wheel falling off the main shaft as i pulled it out. It was the small gear wheel that links the shaft to the starter. After drilling out the broken end of the nipple i could simply unscrew it and replace it. Everyting is checked, clean and ready to be fitted.
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jack
Member
Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 27, 2014 15:55:19 GMT -5
Hi,
Today i was finished assembling the engine, and the first time i fired it up and let it idle only for a few seconds. Running it for a few seconds was to be sure it has no leaks or what so ever. The smoke you see on the video is some fuel spilled on the collector. Sorry for the terrible sound in the video, this is because i placed the phone too close, and the engine is very, very loud!! Tomorrow i wil start it again and hopefully the sound in the video will be better.
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Post by Johansson on Jan 27, 2014 17:34:34 GMT -5
Congratulations!!!
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gidge348
Senior Member
Joined: September 2010
Posts: 426
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Post by gidge348 on Jan 27, 2014 18:57:32 GMT -5
Well Done Jack.... What did you use to ignite it was it still the glow plugs or did you use something else. Ian...
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jack
Member
Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 28, 2014 4:18:02 GMT -5
Hi,
To ignite it i've used a car ignition coil, two capacitors and a relais wired to make it buzz, and it worked pretty well. The spark is hot enough to lite a pice of paper held into the spark.
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gidge348
Senior Member
Joined: September 2010
Posts: 426
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Post by gidge348 on Jan 28, 2014 6:07:50 GMT -5
That's great Jack, I like your thinking.
You may want to draw a quick wiring diagram of what you have done and post it as it may be of help to someone else?
Thanks again for posting.
Do you have a vehicle of some sort in mind for the engine?
Cheers Ian...
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jack
Member
Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 28, 2014 14:28:02 GMT -5
Hi,
Here is a video of my improved ignition system. It's very simple and basic using a 230VAC source, a 600 watt dimmer, a 3uF 450V capacitator and a car ignition coil, all wired up in series. The dimmer is used to vary the energy output of the spark. For the capacitor it doesn'd really matter how big it is, as long as your coil don't heats up soo far you can't hold in your hands anymore. As you can see it produces a very hot spark, you can see the ceramic insulation glow red hot.
I will make a circuit drawing of this one and the previous one.
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jack
Member
Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 28, 2014 16:39:40 GMT -5
Hi, Here are the two ignition circuits. The first is with buzz relais, the secod with dimmer. As you all know, when building / using these circuits please use caution, they both use very high voltage, especially the second one. Always be sure your power source is shut off or even better, disconnected. Even then make sure to short circuit the HV lead to neg. because the capacitor could be charged with a high voltage. With this one, using the dimmer you can controle the energy output from the spark.
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Post by turbochris on Jan 28, 2014 18:23:48 GMT -5
I'll bet that sucker is loud, free turbine air compressor, Nick Haddock could use that for his transonic wind tunnel! My friends, whenever you explore the innards of one of these, they're just like automatic transmissions, the shaft should point up when working on it not horizontal.
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jack
Member
Joined: December 2013
Posts: 20
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Post by jack on Jan 29, 2014 12:45:45 GMT -5
Hi,
Here's another video of the engine running at half speed.
Please notice the beautiful, custom made exhaust oil barrel hahaha.
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Post by ernie wrenn on Jan 30, 2014 8:51:02 GMT -5
Use a coil vibrator and a couple of auto ignition coils.. Work fine on My J-34's.
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jkftl
New Member
Joined: February 2014
Posts: 1
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Post by jkftl on Feb 20, 2014 22:23:00 GMT -5
In the mid-'70s we were operating the Navy's XR-1 SES testcraft at Rohr Corp. Chula Vista, CA. For a major redesign much more power was needed for lift fans and I found the 502-10MA. Worked perfectly for the forward fan. One little thing I noticed was on the oil filler cap. It was the 3 crowns of Sweden heavily embossed in the metal. This leads me to think the machine was NOT entirely developed by Boeing. Or perhaps that particular engine had been built for the Swedish government. Even at that time these engines were quite old. Your thoughts? John Kessler Ft. Lauderdale
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