mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 16, 2014 15:47:58 GMT -5
Haha, yep! I think she was trying to figure out why her golf ball was on it...
Quick question, is that compressor nut left hand thread? I soaked the nut in some of that penetrating oil that comes in an orange bottle... Can't think of the name now though, I think the fumes from it were getting to me!
I just want to know if it is left or right hand thread before I try to take it off, and accidentally tighten it further... would't be the first time I've done it!
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Post by racket on Dec 16, 2014 17:21:48 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
I'm pretty certain its normal right hand thread as this would "tighten" under operation due to the anticlockwise rotation of the turbo shaft
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 16, 2014 20:38:53 GMT -5
Got the nut off, pulled the compressor housing off and cleaned out the corrosion (it had been sitting in damp conditions for a while). In the process of taking the nut off, I was able to free up the shaft, and it rotates fairly smoothly now! I'll get around to posting pics of the compressor wheel, housing, and the bearing and turbine wheel when I get it all apart.
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Post by racket on Dec 16, 2014 22:54:20 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
Thats really great news :-)
You just never know what you'll find when purchasing a "non runner" , sounds like you got a "good one".
Yep , pics please and some sizes for the turbine wheel and scroll .
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 17, 2014 12:54:48 GMT -5
Got the turbine housing off this morning, and found that the turbine wheel looks to be in good shape, with only a few minor dings here and there. Heavily gunked up though, looks like the diesel engine it came off of had a valve seal or piston ring problem judging on how much oil this thing ingested! Also, I found that the turbine wheel inducer is 119mm (my calipers aren't quite "deep" enough to get a 100% accurate measurement), and the compressor wheel is a bit larger at 129mm. Here is the "ding" on one of the turbine blades Here is a size comparison for the turbine wheel
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Post by racket on Dec 17, 2014 13:25:15 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
That chunk out of the tip will be OK at the relatively low speeds you'll be running it at, the turbo has probably done a lot of hours work in that condition at far higher speeds.
The exducer looks like its the "open" variety ( less deflection angle) so able to flow more gases with less backpressure on the engine probably off a low boost diesel engine.
All looking good so far :-)
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 17, 2014 14:35:13 GMT -5
Great! Any advice on how to remove the compressor wheel and shaft? I have the nut off the compressor wheel so far...
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Post by racket on Dec 17, 2014 17:48:19 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
Just warm the comp wheel with a gentle propane flame , running the flame around and around the wheel so that theres even heat applied to it , you should only need to heat it until its hot to the touch , sizzling spit is the limit :-) ........... the comp will expand off the steel shaft and should easily be removed, the turb and shaft should then slide out the other way .
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 18, 2014 1:52:44 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip, after about 2 minutes I had the compressor wheel off using this method! Should have asked earlier before I spent 30 minutes trying to tap the shaft out with a soft faced hammer!
Didn't take any pics but I will tomorrow, the shaft looked okay, and was shiny. I expected it to be pitted and corroded since the rotating assembly was seized when I got it. I'll upload pictures of the turbine wheel and shaft when I take it out of the degreasing solution it's in now. Inside of the bearing looked okay from what little I could see, but the thrust portion of the bearing looked a little cut up.
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Post by racket on Dec 18, 2014 2:39:58 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
LOL , yep we've all had our moments doing something the hard way :-)
Its still sounding like a good buy .
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 18, 2014 14:18:00 GMT -5
Here are a few pictures of the shaft and bearing: Bearing surface has some gouges, they don't go too deep though thrust surface is a bit gouged up too Shaft looks pretty good!
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Post by racket on Dec 18, 2014 14:40:23 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
Looks like someone was running contaminated oil , oil filter bypass open ??
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 18, 2014 15:07:51 GMT -5
Could have been the case! I am considering touching up the bearing's outer race with some fine grit sand paper and polishing it, being careful not to take too much off. Would it be plausible to use these bearings supplied with oil of course, instead of a ball bearing setup? (I have an extra pump laying around that could probably do the job)
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Post by racket on Dec 19, 2014 0:12:57 GMT -5
Hi Mitch
If using a chain drive off the shaft it'll probably need a ball bearing beside the sprocket , either inboard or outboard .
I used a large brass bush in my first turbine bikes to support the freepower shaft , but it had a gearbox , single stage reduction, so some gear "spreading" loads
Cheers John
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mitch
Senior Member
Joined: August 2014
Posts: 285
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Post by mitch on Dec 19, 2014 0:27:00 GMT -5
Yeah, I had planned on using a chain drive. So when using the hydrostatic bearing with a ball bearing, I am assuming the ball bearing is used to prevent damage to the free power turbine shaft and hydrostatic bearings, due to the downward "pull" of the chain on the shaft?
And that makes things a bit easier, as I can buy a smaller (and consequently cheaper) ball bearing to use, since the shaft on the is smaller on the compressor side! haha
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