|
|
Post by smithy1 on May 28, 2018 22:09:42 GMT -5
Hi Smithy OK it looks like another battery needed . I did find a semi loose connection at the starter solenoid , it didn't show any signs of distress so mightn't have been a problem , but am fitting another fuel pressure gauge on the supply line near the final filter so as to know exactly whats getting to the engine during spoolup , the other fuel pressure gauge is out of the pump prior to the dump valve etc . Cheers John Yep ...an "actual" fuel feed pressue value will be very useful. I have a pressure pickup right at the injector which is good for diagnostic purposes...the actual pressure isn't always what we think it is..!! |
|
Deleted
Joined: January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2018 16:16:52 GMT -5
Hmmm, she should be up to self sustain by 30k or 50% John, agree a poor/low fuel supply pressure wouldn't help. I have separate power supplies for my fuel & oil systems now, mainly due to my 750psi+ fuel pressure requirements. Need a nice big 10ah 6cell lipo (22+v) for my fuel pump drive and a normal 12v motorcycle battery is sufficient for all other systems...although I'm using a blower to start, so that eliminates that as a power supply issue. Ignition also uses a separate 6cell lipo battery for my C20 igniter system, so I have three separate batteries on the kart now.....and none of them are used for starting duties. Cheers, Smithy. The HX Kart has one 5s, 10ah lipo on it.... and still has plenty left in battery after a run :-) :-( Was so hoping to see full power run of the engine :-( That starter is clearly dragging some power out the batteries.... Am sure you will soon have things running well once an extra battery is installed All The Best Andy |
|
|
|
Post by racket on May 29, 2018 17:29:40 GMT -5
Hi Andy
Yep , hopefully another battery might make things easier , our car's battery is nearly 7 years old so I might replace it and use the old one for the test stand :-)
Cheers
John
|
|
|
|
Post by smithy1 on May 29, 2018 21:35:15 GMT -5
Hi Andy Yep , hopefully another battery might make things easier , our car's battery is nearly 7 years old so I might replace it and use the old one for the test stand :-) Cheers John Get your priorities right John....new battery for the test stand...leave the old one in the car...😉😉😁 |
|
|
|
Post by racket on Jun 2, 2018 19:45:47 GMT -5
Hi Guys
With the splitting up of battery systems the new setup gives plenty of running time for oil and fuel pumps before the pressures start to decay away .
I did a 30 minute test run and oil pressure remained at 72 psi the entire time , though pump RPM dropped a tad from ~1150 rpm down to ~1130 rpm at the end of the 30 minutes with the pump motor jump warming a bit , maybe 15 C degrees , whilst fuel pressure started at 50 psi and dropped to 40 psi by the end , theres a possibility the PWM might have some influence on this , don't really know , its not a problem as my fuel tank only gives ~5 minutes of run time, and the fuel pressure was rock steady for the first 15 minutes .
Just need to sort out the starter motor wiring and the engine will be ready for more testing :-)
Cheers
John
|
|
|
|
Post by racket on Jun 5, 2018 20:53:31 GMT -5
Hi Guys The electrics are modified and tested , just need to get a fine day so that I can haul the test stand onto the trailer for a test run . Meanwhile I'm revisiting the gearbox ( Hydro Mec FA 52 ) I sourced a couple of years ago to fit some lube drainage for when its supplied with pressure jet lube to the pinion gears and bearings , its currently a sealed for live unit with some very sticky heavy duty lube . The pinion gear looks like a 46 mm dia X 19 mm wide 30 tooth Module 1.25 ?? 30 degree helical angle feeding a 39 tooth 59 mm X 18 mm gear for the first stage redux of 1.3 :1 , the second stage has an 18 to 91 tooth Module 2 ?? 10 degree helical gear set for a ~5.05 :1 ratio, 91 tooth gear is ~175 mm dia X 30 mm wide , overall gearbox ratio is ~6.57 :1 A few pics    Cheers John |
|
|
|
Post by racket on Jun 7, 2018 4:40:05 GMT -5
Hi Guys Scavenge drain for the gearbox fitted  What a shit of a job machining the casing whilst all the gears inside , spent more time making up "shields" to prevent bits of alloy going into places they shouldn't , than actual machining . Its got a 13 mm hole through the fitting , theres an O'ring seal under the fitting which has provision for 3/4" hose to slip over the tail piece. The scavenge port is on that end of the gearbox so that the rotating gear will be forcing oil towards it , the port height from the base plate will leave a small "sump" that will keep some oil for splash lube . Now to get back to the pinion end of the gearbox and sort out the pressure jet lube . Cheers John |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Jun 7, 2018 7:19:52 GMT -5
Looking good John, but have I missed something? Are you planning to use the gearbox for a freepower build for the Fat Boy?
|
|
|
|
Post by azwood on Jun 7, 2018 16:40:35 GMT -5
Where do you get reduction boxes like this? Hi Guys Scavenge drain for the gearbox fitted What a shit of a job machining the casing whilst all the gears inside , spent more time making up "shields" to prevent bits of alloy going into places they shouldn't , than actual machining . Its got a 13 mm hole through the fitting , theres an O'ring seal under the fitting which has provision for 3/4" hose to slip over the tail piece. The scavenge port is on that end of the gearbox so that the rotating gear will be forcing oil towards it , the port height from the base plate will leave a small "sump" that will keep some oil for splash lube . Now to get back to the pinion end of the gearbox and sort out the pressure jet lube . Cheers John |
|
|
|
Post by racket on Jun 7, 2018 19:44:15 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by racket on Jun 8, 2018 3:57:44 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Yep , the gearbox input/output shaft centre distances is big enough at 150 mm for an Allison C30 4th stage wheel to be used , I would have preferred a single stage redux but nothing suitable , this gearbox will simply mount onto a bespoke 40 mm kart axle and still have clearance between the casing and roadway , output shaft centre to bolt heads on the bottom cover plate is only 100.5 mm , so ~38 mm clearance , ..........LOL, OK on a flat drag strip ;-)
A 4th stage wheel from a C20 would be an even easier fit if I can't get the 12/118 to perform and I need to use a "smaller??" engine .
Cheers
John
|
|
|
|
Post by azwood on Jun 8, 2018 4:42:24 GMT -5
Wow 1100fp in a kart would be nuts even a 1000cc bike motor only makes about 160 odd.might need to check what speed rateing the tyers have lol
|
|
|
|
Post by slittlewing on Jun 14, 2018 16:35:48 GMT -5
Hi John, Just a note on your "starter battery" issue (which I assume you want to be permanently mounted and yet as light as possible).. check out A123 26650 Lipo Cells - they are freely available on ebay (mind the cheap chinese copies) and were in some factory dewalt drills as a battery pack. You can draw about 50A continuously from one cell, 120A for 10 seconds and they weigh about 80 grams each... at 3.3V per cell a 24v pack would only weigh about 600g! Much lighter than lead acid. www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/6610.pdfI have always wanted to build an electric motorcycle and these were no1 on my list! Cheers Scott |
|
|
|
Post by azwood on Jun 14, 2018 17:54:09 GMT -5
There's a batery called ballistix that ive heard good things about  |
|
|
|
Post by racket on Jun 14, 2018 20:05:46 GMT -5
Yeh , theres some nice compact batteries around these days , one of the batteries on my test stand is 22 years old , I got it second hand ~15 years ago out of a golf cart , the 12V lead acid ones are only cheap units , no point spending a lot in case they don't fix the problem
|
|
