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Post by racket on Mar 23, 2019 21:12:57 GMT -5
LOL.......Thats as good as me once leaving the rag in place in the comp housing outlet on the TV84 , it just didn't want to fire up :-)
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Post by Johansson on Mar 26, 2019 16:16:15 GMT -5
Hi guys! I checked the compressor clearance with the tape method John described in his build thread, a single layer of tape was 0.1mm thick and even at two tape layers the comp started to get snug in the cover.  As I suspected the snug section was where I had the most rub marks from the last engine failure, so I mounted the cover in the lathe and sanded the tight section down a bit along with a general smoothing out with the cover spinning.  I used red metal marking dye to check where the fit was tight and added a third layer of tape, things got pretty tight again when the rotor was pushed forward so I gave it another go with the sanding disc in the lathe.  With four layers of tape which measures to slightly less than 0.4mm the rotor turns with a slight resistance when pushed forward, no tight spots as far as I can tell. With the tape removed I can´t make the compressor touch the sides of the cover with dry bearings so I think I am good to go!  Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by racket on Mar 26, 2019 16:50:10 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Better to lose a few horsepower from extra comp clearance than have another rub :-)
Good to see the engine back together .
Cheers
John
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Post by Johansson on Mar 26, 2019 17:00:44 GMT -5
Hi John, I agree, the JU-02 will still be honking out lots more power than JU-01 so I´d like to stay on the safe side to keep the engine in one piece for years to come.  Indeed, I´ll just clean off the red dye and then I can start assembling the last parts on the engine. Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Apr 8, 2019 7:52:28 GMT -5
Wrapping up the gas producer assembly, here I have made a cutout in the bellmouth for the oil line.  The fuel plenum has Tredo gaskets (rubberized steel) but the rubber dont like heat and kero combined so I will go and buy a set of aluminum washers tomorrow that will work better. I dont want any fuel leaks near the interstage duct.  I test flowed the syringes to check for blockages, but all of them was full flowing. 👍🏻 Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by azwood on Apr 8, 2019 18:06:11 GMT -5
Yep I ended up with brass washers on the banjos.apart from that JB weld is good with fuel ive used that on bikes a lot
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Post by Johansson on Apr 10, 2019 15:13:13 GMT -5
I picked up the aluminum washers yesterday, much easier to work with than the Tredo washers since they drop right on with no wiggling or juggling involved.  Hopefully tight like a frogs arse.  I remembered that I didn´t know the gas producer weight so I put the JU-02 on the bathroom scale, 23.8kg isn´t that bad for an engine capable of 250hp. Unfortunately the gearbox is cast iron so the total turboshaft engine weight is probably around 40kg.  Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by racket on Apr 10, 2019 17:28:43 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Thats a nice weight considering theres been plenty of metal kept in place for "containment" , a lot lighter than a big turbo based engine :-)
New washers looking good
Cheers
John
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Post by azwood on Apr 14, 2019 2:33:44 GMT -5
Hi Anders Thats a nice weight considering theres been plenty of metal kept in place for "containment" , a lot lighter than a big turbo based engine :-) New washers looking good Cheers John I agree my holset engine pretty heavy around 40kg I'd say |
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Post by Johansson on Apr 14, 2019 14:58:06 GMT -5
We´ve had a great weekend with perfect weather and lots of fun with the family despite me being on work duty.  With the kids in bed I spent an hour playing around with different oil filter placements and I think I´ve found something that works and won´t obstruct the air flow too much.  The oil pressure line goes from the pump, through a filter and into the alloy chunk with pressure sensors and the bleed port for the gearbox lubrication. The oil suction line goes from the tank, through a filter and into the pump.  I will of course secure the filters to the frame later so they won´t bounce around, but for now I only need to get the hose lengths right.  Cheers! /Anders |
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Deleted
Joined: January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2019 0:06:17 GMT -5
Looking good..... nice to see the engine in its new home |
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CH3NO2
Senior Member
Joined: March 2017
Posts: 455 
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Post by CH3NO2 on Apr 19, 2019 9:44:02 GMT -5
Hi Anders,
Filter before scavenge pump?
I was under the impression the delta P between the CHRA oil outlet and the scavenge pump was a critical issue and had to be as low as possible?
I'm sure it varies from design to design, but how much Delta P is acceptable?
Tony
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Post by turboron on Apr 19, 2019 13:09:14 GMT -5
All, the modern gas turbines I worked on generally had a scavenge filter before the common scavenge/pressure gyrator oil pump. The idea was to protect the pump in case of a bearing failure.
Thanks, Ron
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Post by Johansson on Apr 24, 2019 2:30:20 GMT -5
No filter on the scavenge line, just before and after the pressure pump.
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Post by Johansson on Apr 24, 2019 10:31:21 GMT -5
I made the last couple of steel braided hoses for the bike this morning, no pics since you all know how a bunch of AN-hoses look anyway. 🙂
Tomorrow I will start fitting the electronics and wire everything up, plus I can remove the gearbox for a final check and weld up the interstage duct.
Cheers!
/Anders
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