Filled the karts oiltank with 6 litres of 5W40 synthetic ( recycled from my test stand lube tank) , the 6 litres filled the tank to a half inch below the deairation baffle positioned an inch under the return drain from the turbo .
Hooked up a 3 foot length of 1/2 inch bore hose onto the 18 inches of 1/2" copper supply oil line between pump and turbo lube inlet and switched on the pump to cycle some oil around and clean out the lines/pump/filter before hooking up to the turbo proper.
With the oil pressure gauge pickup mounted on the pump outlet , ...........yeh , I know , ................it should be at the turbo but just how much restriction can there be in 18 inches of 1/2" copper pipe , ....................LOL, lotsa restriction actually .......... the gauge was reading 25 psi just to push the flow thru 18 inches of 1/2" copper pipe and 3 feet of 1/2" bore plastic tube between pump and oiltank filler spout ....................there was a good flow coming out the end of that plastic piping though ;D
Will leave overnight to see how things "settle" and check for leaks in the morning , hopefully there won't be any .
Delivery tube between comp scroll and combustor made and fitted into place , all given a coat of high temp paint and cured in the kitchen oven , looks nice now that the crappy welding is painted over .
Turbo refitted to the chassis and oil lines hooked up and pressure tested , thankfully no leaks.
Oil pump was producing ~70-75 psi and the turb rotor was nearly as free to spin as when there was nil oil pressure in the bearings just residual lube , this should allow spoolup with just the blower , unlike the stiff rotor in the 10/98 engine where full oil pressure produced a 'locked" rotor requiring a lot of starter torque , this one will spin a few revolutions with just a finger flick of the comp .
Should be able to mount the lower section of the combustor tomorrow along with the delivery tube from the comp scroll , the flametube and upper section of the combustor will need to wait until I weld on the "ears" for the stays that will triangulate the engine into the chassis .
She's coming together quickly now , started turning up the flange for the jetpipe Vband clamp today , just need to wait until the clamp arrives to finalise dimensions for mounting the 5 inch dia section of tubing , ~3 inches long , that will be the jetpipe.
Post by Richard OConnell on Jul 27, 2011 23:54:29 GMT -5
I guess they arent all bad, but maybe thrust/weight ratio isn as important as thrust/size ratio. Even a valved-pulsejet is typically a monster in comparison to a good turbine that would produce a simliar amout of thrust.
I'm definately not knocking pulsejets.. they are relatively easy to build and they can be fun as hell to play with. I cant count the number of old glass jars that have gone ballistic in my yard