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Post by racket on Feb 27, 2018 3:08:44 GMT -5
~1.5 times the tubing diameter should be sufficient clearance between the outflow end and the wall , but you'll need to consider your wall hole positioning
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Feb 27, 2018 6:44:17 GMT -5
~1.5 times the tubing diameter should be sufficient clearance between the outflow end and the wall , but you'll need to consider your wall hole positioning wall hole positioning??? do you mean the vaporizer inlets or the flametube air hole positioning. ryan
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Post by racket on Feb 28, 2018 3:02:36 GMT -5
the flametube air holes
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Feb 28, 2018 3:03:44 GMT -5
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Mar 13, 2018 9:07:35 GMT -5
Over the last few days i managed to cut and tack the vaporizers tubes together. to get perfect 45 degree cuts identical on all the tubes (total of 20 cuts) i made a guide jig from 40mm roundbar. it has the mitre cut on one end and a hole up the guts for a snug fit with the tube. then i just poke it out the correct distance and use a 1mm cutting disk on the grinder keeping the disk flush with the roundbar, and it worked beautifully. ill purge the tubes and fuseweld them without filler wire when i get a chance. I also made the cone for the flametube base it still needs a slipring welded to the top before it gets attached to the lid. probably the last update for a while im off to tie the knot this weekend so no shed time for a while ryan
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Post by racket on Mar 13, 2018 15:39:49 GMT -5
All looking good .
Congratulations on the upcoming nuptuals
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Apr 9, 2018 8:07:43 GMT -5
i found a few spare hours and welded up the evap tubes .9mm ss is not easy to weld but with a very sharp tungston and some steady hands i got them glued up. i also machined a collar to accept the flametube for the cone and welded it on. i then drilled holes and tacked the evaps in place for welding hopefully tomorrow hoping people are finding this thread usefull. i feel like i never take enough pics during fabrication so if i miss something usefull let me know and ill try be a bit more detailed about it. cheers ryan
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greazy
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 2:32:49 GMT -5
Alot has happened with this build without me posting. Usual excuses work and life getting in the way of hobbies. but stay tuned for a string of updates. I have made a vband style clamp and welded the suitable flanges to the combustion can. See pics below This was for ease of removal as undoing an entire ring of flange bolts just to inspect the inside drove wild especially during the test and tune phase. Made all the parts from stainless steel plate plasmacut and machined. Final thoughts.. I don't recommend fabricating as it took ages but the result is great
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greazy
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 2:39:12 GMT -5
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greazy
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 2:45:55 GMT -5
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greazy
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Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 25, 2020 3:14:36 GMT -5
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Post by racket on May 25, 2020 4:28:28 GMT -5
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Jul 20, 2020 19:58:03 GMT -5
hey everyone, using Rackets previous post as a guide i have come to a design in the picture attached any input to hole placment would be appreciated the total area is only about 30mm2 larger than the inducer area with the standard 30/20/50 split in areas
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Post by racket on Jul 21, 2020 0:21:52 GMT -5
Maybe bring that pair of holes that blow across/through each evap tube outlet a bit closer together to try and blow the fuel/air mix "inwards" towards the other tube legs .
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Jul 21, 2020 1:47:29 GMT -5
ok what are your thoughts on the cooling film holes (3mm) are they set too high/spaced appropriatley throughout the flametube??
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