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Post by slittlewing on Jul 23, 2020 15:41:47 GMT -5
Looking great! Here’s a few pics of my impingement. I have since been advised to drill tangentially, at 45 deg angle approx 5mm in from the compressor exducer (so you generate max torque). Unfortunately I had already drilled the hole approx right on the exducer, so I think some air takes the easy route past the outer edge and it doesn’t spool as quick as it could.... Anyway here’s some pics!   Cheers Scott |
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Jul 24, 2020 16:01:48 GMT -5
Looking great! Here’s a few pics of my impingement. I have since been advised to drill tangentially, at 45 deg angle approx 5mm in from the compressor exducer (so you generate max torque). Unfortunately I had already drilled the hole approx right on the exducer, so I think some air takes the easy route past the outer edge and it doesn’t spool as quick as it could.... Anyway here’s some pics! Cheers Scott Thanks Scott, never thought of welding an ali tube in there, might do that if I can find something small enough. |
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Oct 1, 2020 12:37:51 GMT -5
Hopefully this should do the trick. I bought some 2, 3 and 4mm aluminium tube hoping to use it but it’s wall thickness was too thin to be of any use. So drilled a 3mm hole in a M8 bolt, threaded the bolt into the comp housing at the round about correct spot then connected it together with some flared steel tubing to an air fitting. Not quite sure if the air fitting is suitable as they’re only good for ~200psi.. I’ll test it soon to see what the flow pressure builds to.    |
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Nov 8, 2020 3:03:26 GMT -5
I finished off the main battery and fuse/relay box wiring the other day. 60ah of lithium power, 80a circuit breaker, battery isolator switch.  Also finished the throttle by using a needle toggle valve to restrict nozzle bypass flow.  Currently working on wiring up the dash and steering wheel switches.  Pretty keen to start making the afterburner! I should wait till I’ve finished a few things otherwise there’ll be 5 half jobs on the go |
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Nov 24, 2020 6:30:20 GMT -5
Did some testing of the oil system today. The Marco UP10 oil pump puts out a hell of a lot of flow (10Lpm@5bar) Within a few seconds of turning the pump on, the 30a fuse blows. The turbo being stationary doesn’t flow much so the regs trying to bypass most of the flow back to tank which it can’t seem to handle- even though it’s rated to 1000hp. (Petrol) I’ve found another regulator good for 30Lpm which I’ll try.  |
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Post by azwood on Nov 24, 2020 17:11:28 GMT -5
Did you try drilling out the hole in the reg I had to
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Nov 24, 2020 21:49:48 GMT -5
Did you try drilling out the hole in the reg I had to No I havnt, Cheers I’ll give it a go this arvo 👌🏻 |
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Post by azwood on Nov 24, 2020 21:52:39 GMT -5
Did you try drilling out the hole in the reg I had to No I havnt, Cheers I’ll give it a go this arvo 👌🏻 Start small and work up |
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Post by azwood on Nov 24, 2020 22:20:06 GMT -5
Mine was about 3mm and I ended up around 5 just make sure you don't take that much that the plunger has no sealing surface.
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Jan 1, 2021 10:41:30 GMT -5
I took the reg apart for a look, the bypass hole is 4.5mm in diameter. Could have got another mil out of it but like you said azwood there wouldn’t be much sealing surface left. The new GFB(go fast bits) reg is apparently good for 30lpm and apon disassembly the bypass hole is 8mm. Fitted it up and it’s much better, before the oil pump was pulling 32amps, now with bigger reg ~27amps. I also checked the pressure drop across the oil cooler and it’s 15psi(at full pump flow)..which equates to 5amps of current draw. A fair bit i recon, the oil cooler is a standard B&M trans cooler. Higher flowing coolers get bulky and expensive so fitted a bypass to it. Probably have the ball valve opened up half way when running. Quite happy with the oil system now, onto some testing of the fuel side 👌🏻   |
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Jan 22, 2021 10:04:02 GMT -5
Did some testing of the fuel system with mixed results. I’m using a variflow 14gph nozzle and am throttling it by restricting the bypass flow using a needle toggle valve. It’s actuated by the kart throttle pedal which I modified the cable position to give fine control over the valve.. in theory. Whilst testing it made 120psi bypass fully open and ~280 psi closed. There wasn’t a smooth progression to full throttle. From idle it did nothing till the valve was about 90% closed where it then went up rapidly within the last 0.5mm of valve travel. I swapped the needle toggle valve (blunt needle profile) to a regular 1/4” needle valve which netted the same results. I thought this would provide much greater control. I have an 1/8” needle valve but haven’t tried it- I think the drillings are too small which may restrict flow and increase the idle. Ive heard that putting an orifice before the valve will stop the flow being as aggressive but yeh that might also restrict the bypass flow making the idle abnormally high. 1/4” Needle toggle valve  1/4” needle valve  What are your thoughts? I think the slightly better low/mid throttle atomisation advantage of using this bypass nozzle is a bit too hard to be worth it. I tried blocking the bypass and fitted a pwm speed controller to the motor which worked great. I can trim the minimum speed on the controller circuit board too which makes setting the idle all too easy. |
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Post by slittlewing on Jan 22, 2021 13:52:22 GMT -5
Personally I’m all for PWM, you would need to connect your pedal to a potentiometer and get rid of the bypass. From my limited experience I ended up with just 1.2 bar fuel pressure at idle (=0.6bar P2) and 10bar full throttle (2bar P2) so your existing setup would have a very high idle!!
Cheers
Scott
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Jan 22, 2021 15:30:45 GMT -5
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Post by racket on Jan 22, 2021 15:38:50 GMT -5
Variflow nozzles need full flow at all times to provide good atomisation throughout the range , a PWM might work but your atomisation at idle will suffer .
You need a Differential Relief Valve in your system so as to maintain a constant pressure drop across your metering valve
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ausjet
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Post by ausjet on Jan 22, 2021 15:49:08 GMT -5
Variflow nozzles need full flow at all times to provide good atomisation throughout the range , a PWM might work but your atomisation at idle will suffer . You need a Differential Relief Valve in your system so as to maintain a constant pressure drop across your metering valve Got ya so if I’m going to run the pwm method I should change the nozzle out to a standard one instead of just blocking off the bypass port |
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