|
|
Post by Johansson on Nov 7, 2017 15:11:50 GMT -5
I´ve missed the almost daily planning and building of the turbine bike, good to be back on track again!  |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Nov 6, 2017 17:47:06 GMT -5
Hi John, With the oil pump, return pump and fuel pump being fed through separate 6mm2 cables from the LiFe battery capable of delivering 60A continuously I think that the strange oil pressure drop problems I´ve been having will be gone for good, I´ll try to have all of the wiring done by the time the battery arrives. If I have the bike assembled before next fall I will try to rent some place to test run it, it would be priceless to have a couple of test runs to digest during the winter instead of coming to the following summers race with an untried bike. No need to worry about it yet though, one step at a time will get me there sooner or later. We do have the turbofan project to pull off as well, Olov and I did some tire kicking on the ice yacht chassis last night and discussed how to tackle the build during the winter. Cheers! /Anders |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Nov 6, 2017 15:06:53 GMT -5
Ha ha, I should not make such statements. I went outside an hour ago to start taking the heat cover off the harness and before I knew it I had removed most of the harness since some daft bastard had wired the oil pumps with 1.5 meter long 2.5mm2 cables. Small wonder my friends measured a massive voltage drop during the last JU-02 test.....
I´ll remove everything and tidy it up, with the oil pump relays and their trigger cables removed I will be rid of like 50% of the harness. Perfect!
|
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Nov 6, 2017 6:03:18 GMT -5
I´ve bought some 6mm2 cable for the oil pumps, the idea is to get rid of the relays and wire the pumps directly to the main power switch. That way there is no way I can forget to start the pumps before spooling up the engine, and the voltage drop should be less than it is now with 4mm2 cables. I have been unable to decide if I should remove the entire wiring harness and do it all over now, or if I should just replace the pump wires and sort the harness out later. I finally decided to go for the second option since I will later fit the electric start which will add even more cables to the bike. With next years One Mile cancelled (due to some drunken riot in the pits after the last race) I will have time to both test run JU-02 in the rig, install it in the bike and sort the wiring out without having to rush things, I had an idea that I would go to a race in Finland next summer but I won´t have time to finish the bike in time. There are still plenty of test runs to do so hopefully the cobwebs won´t have time to gather in the build thread... Cheers! /Anders |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Nov 6, 2017 0:10:36 GMT -5
Nice sled!
One thing that concerns me is the oil ports on the turbocharger, it looks like the drain port is pointing to the side of the turbo and not straight down. If it were a ball bearing turbo you might have been ok but a journal bearing turbo needs a gravity drain for the oil so the drain port has to be pointing downwards.
Cheers!
/Anders
|
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 24, 2017 16:47:26 GMT -5
Notice the steel braided hose on the suction side of the pump, thanks John for the idea!
|
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 24, 2017 16:44:20 GMT -5
Still waiting for the new LiFe battery to arrive so meanwhile I am catching up on other hobby related stuff. Nevertheless I got around to fit the new scavenge pump to the test rig tonight and it has no problem at all keeping up with the oil flow at its rated 6x flow capacity.  One thing I noticed was a slight smell of hot wires from the bike after the pumps had been running for a minute, I´ve been using very moderate cable areas so I decided then to rewire all of the big consumers before I run the engine again. Probably some half arsed wiring just for the test rig running but if it does the trick I´ll rewire the bike cable harness later. Cheers! /Anders |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 17, 2017 12:55:27 GMT -5
Thank you very much guys for the congratulations! Ah, so instead of regulating the oil pressure mechanically I would have to regulate the PWM signal. Sounds overly complicated so I think I´ll stick with the old trusted ball and spring regulator. Thanks for the insight, it saved me a future headache or two. Haha, understand your point but it is acually not that complicated. At least not in theory.... All you need is a pressure transmitter and Arduino board and a power transistor. Like you have on the fuel pump control with the adder of only the pressure transmitter instead of the throttle handle. Since I do not know very little about Arduino, making the program would be the difficult part. But if you are into Arduino programing I assume that it would be possible without to much grey hairs. Host host... I think Olov could build a pressure controller in a split second :-) Hmm, I´ll give it some thought. |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 15, 2017 14:59:01 GMT -5
Beer! |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 14, 2017 1:05:13 GMT -5
Ah, so instead of regulating the oil pressure mechanically I would have to regulate the PWM signal. Sounds overly complicated so I think I´ll stick with the old trusted ball and spring regulator.
Thanks for the insight, it saved me a future headache or two.
|
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 13, 2017 14:20:23 GMT -5
Wohoo! Great work, it runs like a charm!
|
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 12, 2017 13:53:54 GMT -5
While waiting for the battery to arrive I made a pair of 1/2" hose connections for the scavenge pump, hopefully I can fit it to the test rig and wire it up this weekend.  Cheers! /Anders |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 10, 2017 8:22:41 GMT -5
As a fuel filter I use an AN4 nitrous oxide inline filter that Ernie was kind to send to me, not sure about the microns though. Perhaps Ernie can fill us in with that info if he reads this.
|
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 9, 2017 15:13:10 GMT -5
Hello Anders. Your work is inspirational. Thank you for taking the time to document it so thoroughly. All the best. Dan Thanks Dan! Welcome to the forum by the way! |
|
|
|
Post by Johansson on Oct 6, 2017 4:25:49 GMT -5
I would still be worried about the oil temp with the impeller pump. Even if the oil tank never gets very warm, the oil exiting the bearings will almost certainly be well over 80°C, and mixed with hot air / gas. It might work ok for short runs, but it might be worth checking the temp coming out of the oil drain to make sure it's not way higher than expected. A very good idea, I will try to add a temp sensor to the oil drain and see how high it gets during a 2 minute run. |
|
