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Post by jetjeff on Apr 5, 2017 2:54:43 GMT -5
Hi All, My Kamps start #3 resulted in the turbine expanding. I'll have to make another turbine wheel for it. Case pressure did make it to 2 PSI, but as you can see it's running WAY hot. The turbine blades were left too thick, which caused the expansion. I'll make a self sustaining turbine one of these decades,,,lol. youtu.be/5Fbfgq7diQARegards Jeff
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Post by racket on Apr 5, 2017 16:21:02 GMT -5
Hi Jeff
Bummer , any chance that theres a miss match of parts causing the problem ?
Cheers John
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Post by jetjeff on Apr 6, 2017 0:15:21 GMT -5
Hi John,
Yep, that's a possibility. Making a new turbine wheel with thinner blades or reprofiling the existing one is worth a shot.
Regards
Jeff
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ripp
Veteran Member
I'm sorry, I don't speak english, so I torment you (and myself) with a translation program,Sorry
Joined: January 2013
Posts: 231
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Post by ripp on Apr 6, 2017 17:36:58 GMT -5
Hi Jeff. Please check again your areas and angles in the turbine. Close the turbine at the front and at the end and check through Compressed air for tightness, Look what happens. Cheers Ralph translate.google
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Post by jetjeff on Apr 7, 2017 4:05:16 GMT -5
Hi Ralph,
When I remake the turbine, I'll hold the blade angle closer to 30 degrees (in an effort to reduce temperatures) thanks.
Regards
Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Apr 7, 2017 13:59:20 GMT -5
Hi Jeff You can tell if you have over stressed your turbine wheel if the centre hole has gone bigger,don't think you have at 2 psi,what you may have done is untwisted the blades slightly don't worry about it have another go at thinning the blades if the centre hole is still a good fit on the shaft.
don't reduce the 35 twist angle if you make another wheel,you will end up with other problems, try thinning the old wheel and if it still runs hot reduce the angle at the tip by 2-3 degrees with a short claw tool.
check your turbine housing for tight spots and locally clear with a dremel tool ,do not m/c down the turbine wheel unless the clearance is less than 8 thou. all round
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Post by jetjeff on Apr 7, 2017 14:49:13 GMT -5
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the tip. The turbine clearance was about .009 with it being .005" in spots. It's tough to build a home made NGV as precise as a cast NGV from Inconel.
I'll try thinning the blades more.
Regards
Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Apr 7, 2017 15:44:16 GMT -5
HI JEFF if you are 5 to 9 thou you are only 2 thou off centre,just knock the tight spots off the housing,they always move on the first few runs but once cleared will settle down.
the problem with a twisted wheel is it's the opposite to what it should be which is greater angle at the root than the tip,if you stick at 30 makes it worse ,better to over twist and untwist a bit,that's another reason you need more blades as a narrower blade is better to twist.
Saying all above i don't think it's the whole problem with your Kamps engine,compressor is not doing anything you can almost see where you are blowing compressed air though straight out the back.
have you any direct see through of the NGV ?
Have you got rear preload,if so how far can you push the turbine wheel forward,use a dti on the wheel as you push,does not want to be more than 6 thou.
Did it jam up ? bit dark to see if it did ,did it free up as soon as you turned the gas off and it cooled ? if it did clearance is nearly right.
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Post by jetjeff on Apr 7, 2017 16:30:52 GMT -5
Hi Chris,
Yes, I have rear preload on the GRW bearings. It's not completely jammed, but I can tell there was some creep (some rubbing on the turbine housing) . It may be better to make a new turbine wheel than trying to thin the blades of the existing one.
Theres is little see through of the NGV,,,I'll have to check to see how many blades this one has.
Regards
Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Apr 9, 2017 12:34:34 GMT -5
Hi Jeff
If you check the see through with the back shank of a drill what size would fit held parallel to axis's of engine ?
Are the GRW bearings cageless angular contact and are you using wave washers or a normal spring as in the kamps book ?
Chris
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Post by jetjeff on Apr 9, 2017 16:12:39 GMT -5
Hi Chris,
I'll have to check the see through, when I remove the turbine. I tried the other day, but was just unscrewing the compressor (the compressor from a Ford Power stroke 7.3 diesel is threaded). I put some red Locktite in an effort to prevent this from happening.
Yes, using GRW full compliment bearing. Pre-load is via a spring.
Regards
Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Apr 9, 2017 16:57:19 GMT -5
Hi jeff
Normal way to take kj66 Kamps apart is to undo compressor nut take compressor off then pull out turbine wheel and shaft from rear ? I would not use loctite on compressor nut as compressor should be free to tighten it if it starts to turn.
I realize the compressor nut is integral with the compressor wheel which is the same as the FD3 turbine wheel this can give problems as if the ally wheel picks up on shaft, it makes it worse turning the whole compressor to take off, that's the reason i said put copper eze or grease when fitting.
Chris
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Post by jetjeff on Apr 12, 2017 3:57:03 GMT -5
Hi Chris,
Yes, except my bearing fits are very tight and when I press the shaft out, the rear GRW bearing comes apart, so I was trying to avoid removing the shaft.
If I heat the engine with a Monokote heat gun, prior to pressing out the shaft, the rear bearing may stay intact,,,not 100% sure.
She got the gold mine, I got the shaft,,,sounds like a country western song, doesn't it?,,,lol.
Regards
Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Apr 12, 2017 4:09:14 GMT -5
Hi Jeff You will have to bite the bullet and take it apart best way you can,every bearing should be an easy push fit at the most,if the front ends up a bit slack you can always try fitting a o ring but on first running i would not worry about the fits until you have it running right.
One of the main things about a diy engine is it must come apart easy. Better to use normal bearings for setting up and low speed testing also helps to clean everything out with the total loss oil system.
Chris
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Post by jetjeff on Oct 17, 2017 4:08:15 GMT -5
Hi All,
Well, summer in Michigan is over, time to work in my man cave,,,lol. In an effort to "salvage" my Kamps build, I made a new turbine wheel for it. The blade angle was bent to a conservative 30 degrees. The original turbine wheel blades were not profiled correctly. It still may not work due to the mismatch of compressor wheel to turbine diameter, but I'll give it a shot.
Regards
Jeff
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