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Post by racket on Dec 18, 2017 3:06:22 GMT -5
Hi Jeff
LOL......holes , holes and more holes ...........lookin' good :-)
Cheers John
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Post by jetjeff on Dec 18, 2017 8:21:34 GMT -5
Hi John,
Thanks
Yep, more holes than a donut shop,,,LOL!!
I was going to try to make a louver die (instead of just cutting square flaps) for the outer case,,,not 100% sure on that one.
Regards
Jeff
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Post by jetjeff on Dec 22, 2017 15:53:33 GMT -5
Hi Guys, More fun with anodizing. I anodized the front cover to Heineken II a lime green. My wife is pretty tolerant of me turning her kitchen into a laboratory. Regards Jeff
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Post by jetjeff on Dec 24, 2017 13:09:24 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all. Regards Jeff
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Post by jetjeff on Jan 12, 2018 13:41:29 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Not a whole lot of progress on my build, but I was able to make the rear ring of the burner can. Regards Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Jan 12, 2018 17:19:53 GMT -5
Hi Jeff
Your stainless pressings and NGV look good,are you doing straight sticks from the back or hockey sticks at the front. How many sticks did you do on the mark 1 .
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Post by jetjeff on Jan 13, 2018 0:59:53 GMT -5
Hi Chris,
Thanks. Mark 1 used 8 U shaped sticks from the front of the burner can. Thinking of doing the same for part II, except change the exit direction to exit counterclockwise instead of clockwise as viewed from the front.
Regards
Jeff
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Jan 13, 2018 4:28:45 GMT -5
Hi Jeff
The stainless pressing look good no need for spinning if you can press them .
It's worth thinking about using tubes from the back,I did not do it as it was like the original design ,no back to the combustor just pushed against the outer can with 3 springs.
Straight sticks from the back mean no fuel pooling in the sticks and hotter air entering the sticks to help vaporization when starting.
There are 10 large holes in the inner combustor, tube would be better to have ten sticks between the holes to avoid cooling of the sticks.
Don't know how many flaps on the outer combustor but that would be better at 10, reduce the size/area to match the area if you have less.
On one of the talks at the GTBA meeting by Kurt he said he did the flaps to swirl the flow and make some way of varying the flow if needed but found the gas flow just went straight out as it's in a rush to get out. I could see on mine it did not swirl,the flaps on original size where open 2.50mm this works out to 6mm dia hole which i did on later ones and tested it by cutting the flaps off and spot welding plates over the square hole with 6mm hole in ,it's a lot quicker drilling than doing the flaps and never liked them always felt the could vibrate, fracture and fall off into the turbine.
Again 10 sticks would be better, my normal size FD3 engine uses 8 sticks.
Just food for thought.(think I am repeating myself with some info)
Chris
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Post by jetjeff on Jan 15, 2018 11:43:34 GMT -5
Hi Chris, Thanks. Here are pics of the silver solder and silver brazing rods, I was referring to. The stuff in the top picture, I just used a propane torch to solder my fuel manifold tube, the bottom pic is what i used my oxy/acetelyne torch with. Regards Jeff
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Post by jetjeff on Jan 15, 2018 11:59:59 GMT -5
Hi Chris, Here is a pic of the test piece that I "brazed?". Regards Jeff
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Post by turboron on Jan 15, 2018 14:59:01 GMT -5
I have used Safety - Sil V 45 for many years. I use a small ceramic furnace to bring everything up to temperature before brazing. I had trouble brazing sheetmetal to 1/4 inch plate until I went to a Twin-Torch which has two nozzles. Good joints since I went to the Twin-torch.
Thanks, Ron
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Jan 15, 2018 19:03:49 GMT -5
Hi Jeff I used easyflow number 2 (25% cadmium not safe)which melts at 608 - 6012 easy to do with normal butane blowtorch,I used 1/32 silver solder wire and when soldering the stainless needles into brass tube I set up with making small rings of the silver solder which i placed on the needles then fluxed around the joint before applying any heat. I applied the flame only to the brass tube either side of the needle if you heat the needle it overheats and goes black and will not solder. It say's 660-740c for the sil 45 still not hot enough for a NGV. Hi Ron I had to do same twin - touch and a hearth set up made of fire bricks from a electric storage heater when soldering copper boilers for model boats. I've gone from the steam age to the jet age! seen people use tig for Brazing. www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf-Cq5eQmt0what I know about Brazing you can write on the back of a stamp,just made it work for me but you quickly need a lot of heat with bigger jobs or higher temp braze. Chris
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reedy
Veteran Member
Joined: January 2017
Posts: 111
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Post by reedy on Jan 16, 2018 7:12:52 GMT -5
Pictures of GT2000 and detail about Brazed inner NGV,he say's just temporary to be able to M/c outside NGV blades to dia not sure if he welded outside or just left it. Pictures of my spun KJ66 burner can end in my hand / fd3/64 alloy front spun / fly pressed outer NGV area for FD3/64 out of stainless tube/ spare combustor for KJ66 / /inner combustor for FD3/64/ and a front combustor pressing for FD3/64 done under a very high pressure press. Sorry for mucking you build thread up can't send pictures on private messaging.
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Post by jetjeff on Jan 19, 2018 16:09:24 GMT -5
Hi All, I had the inner cone and outer portion of the burner can rolled at a local sheet metal shop. Then had my welder welded the inner cone. My hats off to my welder, he does an unbelievable job welding .016" stainless. Regards Jeff
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Post by racket on Jan 19, 2018 16:39:58 GMT -5
Hi Jeff
Thats an "interesting??" hole pattern on that inner wall :-)
0.016" , thats getting kinda thin , definitely a job for a professional , anything less than 0.040" and I'm not comfortable .
Cheers John
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