miuge
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Post by miuge on Jan 16, 2020 10:06:26 GMT -5
I reached my earlier email contacts and got my hands on this X856 compressor wheel, it will be mated with a 112/129mm HX82 turbine shaft, also bought a rebuild kit including bearings for the shaft:
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Jan 13, 2020 19:01:58 GMT -5
Let's say we'd be using a 106mm comp / 112mm turb rotating assembly with journal bearings, what kind of power and rpm requirements for a electric starter? I'm leaning towards a RC brushless motor and if I'm not totally mistaken +20 000rpm would be needed to bring it up on idle. 70120 680kv @48v = 32 640rpm (a huge lump with high power and rpm) 70120 480kv @48v = 23 040rpm (a huge lump with high power and torque) 5692 980kv @36v = 35 280rpm (slightly smaller lump with plenty rpm) 5692 730kv @36v = 26 280rpm (slightly smaller lump with plenty torque) As a battery Li-ion would be the way to go, I built a 72V 12Ah Samsung battery for my e-bike last summer, weighs less than 4kg in total. Very easy to make with the right tools and you can basically make any shape you want.
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Jan 12, 2020 17:33:40 GMT -5
I believe Andym was using 6455 220kv motor in his direct drive oil pump, pump was a 3cc/rev hydraulic unit what I read from my notes. Commonly these low-speed motors are rated high power, also quite cheap alone without the controls etc. I'm also planning to use a similar setup for my upcoming build.
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miuge
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Posts: 199
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Post by miuge on Jan 11, 2020 8:20:53 GMT -5
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Jan 9, 2020 17:58:21 GMT -5
Search for "HC5A 3594143 3594144 3594199" on Aliexpress $356 + shipping. Make sure the turbo has single entry turbine housing, those GT45s are usually twin entry, not ideal for DIY turbines.
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Jan 9, 2020 14:19:08 GMT -5
It seems to be some sort of T3/T4 hybrid based on wheel sizes, but a ball bearing version?? Not the best candidate turbine exducer being smaller than compressor inducer, also rebuild can become expensive or hard to find parts if it's really a BB chra.
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miuge
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Posts: 199
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Post by miuge on Jan 7, 2020 11:04:19 GMT -5
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Dec 29, 2019 5:03:08 GMT -5
Ron; It's almost 3 times the price of a HAAS equivalent, told by the sales guy.. and well Mazak would have been even more expensive. John; Nah, it's the computer that makes all the work nowadays, all you need to do is transfer the files and add material into the machine G-Trim wheel is on the list. Jeff; We chose Siemens 840D instead of Fanuc control. LOL Edit: Specs of the turbine shaft considered for the build; 112/129mm 11-blade, Part No. 3521034 appears to be clipped one, 3524031 was found from a UK site sharing the same dimensions but no further info whether it's clipped or not.
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Dec 28, 2019 20:10:28 GMT -5
The idea of a new project has been idling, but some relevant news. Me and a friend of mine established a new company in machining business and we ordered a brand new DMG Mori universal CNC turning machine. It's a CLX450 with counter spindle and Y-axis, capable of making pretty much all the parts needed for a RC type gas producer I think if only I've got some spare time I'll finally start realizing the idea. I'll be needing help with the calculations for comp diffuser and turb NGV. Still thinking to stick with the HX82 bits I was inquiring earlier.
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Dec 14, 2019 7:25:18 GMT -5
Read the compressor map of your turbo and find the sweet spot. You won't be needing 3000psi fuel pressure, as in the Racket's post 500psi is plenty for good atomization, set it on idle not less than 100psi and you'll be good.
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Dec 10, 2019 11:00:30 GMT -5
Just stick with the hollow cone stainless steel oil burner nozzle.
What kind of pump did you find?
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Dec 8, 2019 16:56:37 GMT -5
If you're referring to water mist nozzles they might have rubber/plastic/brass/other less heat resistant materials inside, better use oil burner nozzles instead preferably stainless steel ones to avoid meltdown. Calculate your fuel requirements per turbo compressor map, oil burner nozzles are usually rated at 100psi, the bigger the pressure the better the atomization. EFI fuel pump pressure capabilities are limited, go for something else, small hydraulic pump for example.
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Dec 5, 2019 12:18:17 GMT -5
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Nov 23, 2019 7:40:18 GMT -5
Why are you worried about the BW S471 in/ex sizes? Of your options it's the only one that actually has everything listed in the ad. Rest of them looks like antique and the first one doesn't even seem like a turbocharger to me. Run the numbers for a known turbo and go from there. Also note that if your intention is to add a freepower section later, is there any big enough radial turbine wheel you could use or does it require a complete custom unit with Allison wheel or similar and what's your budget for that?
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miuge
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Post by miuge on Oct 23, 2019 9:09:29 GMT -5
It all seems so simple when you outline it on paper or play with an idea in your mind, but when it's all supposed to realise things will change. As for the first turbine project I'd personally recommend to keep it as simple as you can, forget the transmissions and make it just direct drive from the freepower section. If you need a "neutral gear" add a wastegate between the stages, reverse gear can be done with an electric starter motor on the rear axle like they do on chain drive motorbike engine swaps.
If the transmission is a must for some reason, for me an automatic like a two-speed PG would seem simple. High and low speed, and a reverse in one, quite compact thing with a great variety of options. High stall lockup turbine to keep freepower spinning.
Single shaft with a CVT; Where to find one and how to control it, ATV or a snowmobile?
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