dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Dec 17, 2016 14:27:42 GMT -5
Cool video!
I liked how you used a dead center to support the top end. If i ever get around to making one i was going to use my snap-on 1/2" drive torque wrench. It has a digital angle feature for doing TTY cylinder head bolts.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Nov 30, 2016 18:32:02 GMT -5
Have you ran any of your engines?
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Nov 14, 2016 19:03:36 GMT -5
Hi Anders,
I dont comment much on here (way smarter guys in here than me) i dont know what your inlet velocity is, but do you think it will pull on the water stream? Instead of it hitting the nut and fanning out like you have, maybe the air will "bend" the stream of water, hitting the blades directly and causing an uneven mix? Just my thoughts, like i said, youys are a lot smarter than me.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Sept 13, 2016 18:37:46 GMT -5
Ive pressed bearings in before that had too much interference fit and it made the bearings stiff. The tight fit actually compresses the outer race, i bet if you shaved off .002" it would free right up. I know you were worried about the clearence when the shaft tunnel warms up, but the bearings will expand some also.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Aug 20, 2016 0:29:23 GMT -5
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Aug 20, 2016 0:28:22 GMT -5
Speaking of bearings and clearences, im re-engineering small frame diesel turbos (garrett gt15-gt22) to ball bearing. Garrett is already doing it with their newest generation of diesel vnt turbos, but that doesnt help us who constantly are whiping out our turbos on 2.7-2.8L diesels. Anyways i contacted GMN bearings when i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for. I gave them some basic info such as turbo idle rpm, operating temp, shaft and bearing housing material etc. they require an interference fit of .008mm/.0003" on the shaft and a .005mm/.0002" clearence of the housing. That is very very tight tolerences, dang near a tight hand sliding fit on the shaft. With those in mind i dont see how anything more than .001" interference fit would be needed on the shaft. If anyone is interested heres a pic of the custom bearings GMN made for me, 10mmx22mmx6mm ABEC7 angular contact, full complement. If you look really close youll see a really tiny hole, thats a direct oiling port that supplies oil to the non-thrust side of the balls. Bleed air will be piped in between the rear bearing and turbine piston ring to keep the bearing cool and to make sure bearing lube oil doesnt pool up behind the bearing, causing excessive drag. With custom molded high-temp o-rings to dampen the bearings as well as seal the direct-lube ports, these bearings can operate at a sustained 600°F as long as the oil can flow enough to keep from being cooked in the channels. Sorry jetjeff if i hijacked your thread, just thought id share some info straight from a bearing manufacturer. And this is about the only place i know that could possibly ooh and aah over some bearings. By the way i see your in Mi, im in NW Ohio, Tiffin to be exact, i came across the JFS 100 also.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on May 14, 2016 19:45:49 GMT -5
Anders,
I dont know about everyone else, but to me you make it look easy making such a professional looking engine. Like your JU-01, im anxiously awaiting startup and running videos. -Joe
PS, how far are you from Sala?
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on May 14, 2016 19:33:58 GMT -5
Why doesnt anyone use garretts turbo speed gauge? I know its pretty pricey but its "plug and play" so to speak.
Its programmable from 1 blade (flat spot on the hub uses this setting) to 16 blades.
Other than being expensive it seems to be the best option.
-Joe
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on May 1, 2016 6:01:03 GMT -5
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Apr 27, 2016 6:07:13 GMT -5
The shaft where the bearings ride are the same starting at the gt25 all the way up to gt35. But the part of the shaft where the compressor slides on changes. To fit a gt2871 compressor wheel onto a gt35 turbine i had to ream the hole. Also garrett has been known to make the same mm compressor wheel in 2 different versions. The 60mm compressor wheel on a gt2560 is not the same wheel as the 60mm compressor wheel used on a gt2860. The 2860's wheel is taller and able to process more air even though its diameters measure the same as the 2560. I know your dealing with a gt30/35, but theres some wheels that crossover in this size as well.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Apr 25, 2016 21:22:36 GMT -5
The garrett gt25-35 use the same center housing. Should just be a matter of changing the heat shield and turbine housing, or machining the housing like you said. But you can find used housings on ebay pretty cheap. You may have to also have the compressor wheel hole reamed out to fit the larger quill of the gt35 turbine. I built a custom gt3571 turbo and had to do this exact same thing. Search JDS on ebay it will take you to a guy in north carolina, usa and he can ream the compressor wheel for you. Its hard finding a shop that will do this due to liability concerns.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Mar 23, 2016 18:40:58 GMT -5
Hi John, Im an avid rc plane/heli/turbine enthusiast, electric stuff included. There is a motor available but it isnt cheap: Motor Some research could probably find a chinese clone for 1/4 the price probably. This motor would require 6 car batteries to power it and can hold 28,000 rpms. This being a brushless motor it will require a speed controller and an rc "servo tester" to command it. probably more than what you want to deal with, but it is out there. -Joe
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Jul 14, 2015 20:17:10 GMT -5
I actually keep about 1,000 gallons of diesel handy for my business. during busy season ill burn this in about week and a half to 2 weeks, so my supply stays pretty fresh, which solves the headache of always keeping fresh fuel around. but I was hoping to use gas to keep things simple, no fuel pump/filter, easier and faster starts, cleaner running, a lot cleaner and less smellier teardowns etc. figured I could have a 1,000lb propane tank hauled in and filled, and use an evap cc to run the liquid propane.
I was hoping to design a "pto" or auxiliary drive in my gearbox to drive the oil pump and fuel pump if I have to go diesel/kero. would like a 24v electric oil pump only for startup and shutdowns, once running the mechanically driven oil pump can takeover, this will keep electrical consumption to a minimum, for some reason I don't like having large loads on an electrical system.
im torn between 2 starting methods, electric motor start, or forced air. the easiest would be forced air using a hobby grade EDF (electric ducted fan) unit. these move an unbelievable amount of air, especially running on 24v, I just don't know if it would be enough to spin this size of a gt over? I like the electric motor start for compactness and a lot less clutter, but im not real familiar with them, don't know where to even start to build/buy one.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Jul 14, 2015 17:27:41 GMT -5
Thought I would share the link to the guys that live right around the corner from me, here. I talked to one of them (there's 3 owners) about machining a compressor out of some titanium that I have, seemed interested as he could use what he learns to make titanium versions of there wheels. I will probably have them machine the freepower turbine when I get to that point, I forgot to ask if they've ever machined inco 718.
Kamps recommends a grade 12.9 bolt to use as a shaft. has anyone used anything else with success?
I also found out that household natural gas pressure is only 2-3 psi, ill have to call/email to see if pressure above that is available, or if ill have to upgrade everything to use say 100psi pressure. I know here in the states homes are powered by single phase power, to go to 3 phase they consider you "commercial" and charge you a $200 per month service fee, instead of $50 a month. if natural gas isn't possible I may have a propane tank installed, liquid fuel as a last resort.
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dieselguy86
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Post by dieselguy86 on Jul 13, 2015 23:01:05 GMT -5
I'm interested in one of the 66mm ones. I found my kamps book, once I get refreshed I'll see how close that is to what I need. Sure would save alot of time and hassle. *Edit* Did some searching, remembering the GTBA site had a list of places to get parts for home builds. Found a site that has turbine wheels, www.jetmax.ch/en/turbine_wheels.htm 66mm,70mm, and 85mm, also have matching ngv available. Time for some number crunching which I'll admit isn't my greatest skill... John, I don't know what the pressure is for a house. When this place was a functioning farm they had some grain dryers that used massive amounts of fuel and they were tied into the same line. So I should have plenty of volume, I'm guessing pressure is around 100psi? I'll see what I can find.
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