100shp bike

[dieselguy86]

Monty,

That is awesome, their basic holder is only $425, I'll contact them to see about what broach I'll need. Making my own may or may not be cheaper, but it'll definitely be faster and give me future possibilities.

-Joe

[monty]

Mar 11, 2022 12:20:15 GMT -5 dieselguy86 said:

Monty,

That is awesome, their basic holder is only $425, I'll contact them to see about what broach I'll need. Making my own may or may not be cheaper, but it'll definitely be faster and give me future possibilities.

-Joe

Joe,

Always better to control the process if possible. I'll farm things out if it's just not worth it, but usually I try to figure out a way to do it myself. I'm going to buy a jumping jack for my Bridgeport so I can make ring gears next time....

It always pays to increase what you can do in house. We can always do stuff for other people, plus it's just fun to learn new things. Why else would we do all this crazy stuff??

Monty

[dieselguy86]

Monty, 

Yep, that's why I bought a 3d printer, I can design and print whatever I want and try it before I waste metal.  My only limitation is that I suck at cad modeling lol. 

Worked on mating the 841 output to the transmission input, this turns out to be super easy. All I need is a 1/2" adapter plate, and the 841 case drain fits into the 150cc case's drain. Here's pics of where I got last night...




Came in and drew up an adapter while my cc "manifold" finished up after 36hrs of printing. 




You can see some obvious modeling errors that I need to learn how to fix, but it should be good enough to test for now. I'll fix it to my leaf blower with some strings taped to the straightening vanes to see how much swirl there is. 

I didn't get any pics of the adapter, but dumbass me copied the 841's bolt pattern mirror opposite. Not a big deal, I ended up having to move the drain hole as it would hit the fwd/reverse shifter. I actually like it better now, there's a baffle and a longer path for the oil to travel to hopefully get some of the air out. 








Once joined together, I could fit it into the frame, where I found out mating the freepower to trans was the easy part. 




With the hot section I'll be into the tire, I measured and I can shift everything to the left a solid 4", maybe 6" with some moving of some other components. I guesstimate with engine I'll be ~26" long from 841 output flange, to gt42 inlet flange. In afraid my only option is going to be too mount the engine beside the freepower unit, and have a 180° bend from engine to the 841 hot section. Not ideal but it is what it is. I'm not going for a world record or anything so I can live with the free hp penalty. 

[dieselguy86]

Hey guys,

Thought id give a bit of an update as i havent posted in awhile. Despite 10hr workdays on my full time job, and then an additional 5hrs at night on turbos, ive been making progress on the engine. i have to since i have an end of may deadline. I thought i had most of what i needed to be able to get it put together quickly, but the more i get the more i realize i need. Designing multiple systems from the ground up is alot of work. Respect to everyone here who makes it look easy!

Gt42 chra showed up from china last week, im amazed at the prices they sell them at, only $87, although shipping makes up for it. Had to machine the comp cover to fit, nice fiddly job that was. Was only off a few mm, not worth taking it to the cnc lathe, so lots of small cuts and grinding to get it right. 
Next was starter system, I thought  this starter would be up to the job at 15k rpms. but once it showed up today, testing showed it definitely wasnt. was only able to get around 5k rpms with no oil, and after ~20 seconds the motor started smoking and wires were warm. But i REALLY liked the starter cone on it, so i measured the shaft diameter and went a hunting. Found this motor on ebay. its the right shaft diameter and 2100kv at 13.5volts should get me around 25k rpms unloaded, hoping 15k loaded, which will increase once the fuel is lit. Bought a push solenoid from mcmaster that will push the motor to start.

Next thing ive been thinking on is the fuel and oil system. im not against electric powered pumps, i just think its alot of extra "stuff", wires/relays/switches/fuses etc that seem to give everyone grief. i found the cvt transmission input constantly spins, and there is a centrifugal clutch on the secondary clutch, so this means the input shaft of the transmission will always be spinning. Since i have to make my own input shaft anyways, my plan is to extend it out of the belt cover and use it as an ancillary belt drive. Only problem is that during start up, the power turbine wont be spinning enough to power the pumps. well i think i found my solution. when i bought that sullivan starter, i found they also make starter/alternators for uavs, you can browse the controller here, and the starter/alternator here. I think im going to put a one way bearing in the ancillary drive belt pulley so that in start mode the motor will only be spinning the pumps, but once the power turbine comes on, it will take over and be doing the driving.

almost everything is here for the combustion chamber, just waiting on a couple vband flanges to show up so i can construct it. im not sure im going to have time to wait for the inlet manifold to be casted, so i might end up with a more normal inlet. In order to get all of this done in the remaining month and a half, its going to come down to time management. i can build a new combustion chamber relatively easy later, so as long as something simple can work now, ill be happy.

im not the greatest at taking pics, but i promise ill get some loaded here soon, its just been parts and pieces showing up, with lots of measuring and thinking. 

[racket]

Hi Joe

Starters need some guts for our engines, especially with oil pressure added , better to have it overpowered than underpowered , a quick start is a good start :-)

Yep , those chinese CHRA units are well priced , they now do HX82 units with Ti comp wheels

Pics please ..............LOL, its nice to put the pressure on someone else for a change ;-)

Cheers
John

[dieselguy86]

Hi John,

Yep, I'd rather have too much starter power than not enough. I converted an AMT engine to autostart with a brushless motor and once the ecu settings were dialed in, haven't had one single slow or failed start. Brushed motors just don't have the oomph that brushless ones have.

I actually have plenty to take pics of, fuel system is in, turbo is assembled and ready for cc, once flanges come in it'll only take a couple of days to get cc built and test run made. Besides the normal p2,t2,tit and p4, any other things to measure? I'm going to try to get it all on my banks idash gauge, which will allow me to have shaft speed as well.

[wannabebuilderuk]

If I eventually do a starter setup I'll probably use this for the 4kw of raw power banggood.onelink.me/zMT7/nzw1kpsb

[dieselguy86]

Pump motor and driver showed up yesterday. I already had the mount designed and 3d printed. Downloaded spyder couplers from McMaster and edited them to fit, then printed those as well. Ordered the flex coupling and it fit perfect, also got the rest of the pieces put together to test popoff pressure, spray pattern, and flow rate, and then the kicker happened...

Apparently the last month of 15hr days every single day, caught up to my heart. Er visit showed positive results, so was not any kind of heart attack, Dr appointment tomorrow, but so far hoping it's just stress induced. I've already canceled the end of May show that was my deadline. Sucks but its not worth my health. Here's a few pics of the test rig. 

[racket]

Hi Joe

Take it easy, your health is number one, LOL ...........maybe I should listen to myself :-)

Some nice bits there , stick them in plastic bags so they don't get dirty , and come back to them when you get the all clear from the Doc .

Cheers
John

[dieselguy86]

Hi John,

Today was already better than yesterday, so hoping it's a stress/rest ordeal and it doesn't hold things up too long, been wanting to do this for 2 years now. Good wakeup call to what is important in life, and that I'm not 18 anymore lol.

The good parts are starting to roll in now and the excitement is building. Forgot to mention the solenoid piece sitting on the pump base is the proportional relief valve for throttle. A couple oring fittings and it'll be plumbed in. It'll be controlled from the pwm valve driver I bought earlier. That is controlled by a potentiometer input, had no clue what pot to get, then the work to design up a bracket and pedal assembly to use it. Good ol ebay found me an accelerator pedal off an electric go kart, a nice shortcut I'll gladly take lol.

Only thing I haven't worked out yet is a good strong ignition system, was almost thinking glow plugs.

[racket]

Hi Joe

Have you considered a suction air preheat plug www.iskra-agv.cz/us/aet_products.htm

Yeh , its hard accepting what the years do to us , LOL, I'm not thinking 18 year old anymore , maybe 40'ish would do :-)

Once you have all the bits it'll soon go together

Cheers
John

[dieselguy86]

Electric go kart accelerator came today, somethings "just work out".

The kar-tech pwm driver takes 9-30v, and has a 5v output. The pedal takes 5v as power as sends the output signal to the input of the driver. The driver converts that to pwm and "drives" the solenoid. It looks messy in the pic because I hurriedly hooked it up, but it works great.


If anyone decides to use this driver, I highly advise to buy the optional gate programming tool. I cheaped out, the method of installing and pulling jumpers and turning a small pot to dial in all the settings is quite cumbersome. I now have the gate tool coming. 

Hoping to have some fuel test numbers tomorrow, I finally have everything I need to get that done. 

[dieselguy86]

Hey guys, 

Well, wasn't a 100% successful day. I didn't fail, I just found 1 way not to do it. First issue was I forgot to put a flat on the motor shaft. The set screw just slipped as soon as the pump started making pressure, no big deal, and got it sorted quickly. 

The big failure was I didn't pay attention to the direction of the "grain" of the 3d printer. The motor holes were drawn in a square pattern, 2 holes horizontally in line with each other, coupled with a horizontal "grain" meant there was a quick and easy place for the mount to snap. I can fix it by adding some more gussets and changing the printing pattern.


What I did find out was the "injector" pops off at ~220psi with a pretty nice atomized spray. I got it up to 400psi before I decided holding the shaking motor with a pair of pliers was to sketchy to continue. I don't think the low kv motor and 12v battery will get it to the 1,000psi full throttle mark anyways. 24v should handle it just fine. I didn't get a chance to really get a good look at the spray angle, but it appeared to be pretty narrow, guessing 20-30°, with a good amount of axial travel. I'm thinking it's going to take some combustion testing to use some opposing mixing holes to get the fuel spray redirected so it's not trying to travel so far down the combustion chamber. I have some ideas and tricks to get this done. 

Right now I'm getting the printer warmed up for tomorrow's test. I gotta say I don't miss the smell of diesel on my skin, but it is nice to be "back in the saddle"

[dieselguy86]

Today's "haul" includes the final bits for my ignition system (thanks Monty!) and a 4" x 6" piece of high temp ceramic glass. I guess it's not really glass, rather just transparent ceramic, the Neoceram is capable of withstanding 1,470°F at only 3/16" thick. Was $39, expensive for the size of it, definitely affordable tho. 

I'm going to be doing some combustor testing here soon under real world flow/pressure on a setup I have to try and work out the best way to use these injectors. This glass will let me see what is going on, I'll post more on that when I get to it. 

Side note, health has been improving so the build shouldn't really slow down much. Work is getting in the way more than health. 

-Joe

[dieselguy86]

Some successes, and some carnage lol.
I was finally able to get some data today. I made the motor mount out of some steel and just clamped it to the ABS mount. Ramped it up to full speed and closed the needle valve. Again it pops off at 250psi, but the spray is much finer around 350-400psi. At 1,000psi it sprays ~56° full cone, with id say 60% more towards the center. [/div]

I got things ready to do a flow rate test, grabbed the scales and bummer dead battery. So a half hour trip to town to get a new scale battery. Jug weighed 6.3 oz.



Set the pressure, emptied the jug and double checked its weight, set timer, and away I went. At about 30 seconds the wires started getting warm. 40 seconds I could smell the motor, at 45 seconds I could see smoke, followed by some sparks and the strange scratchy electrical sound brushless motors make when they're jammed.

Weighed it up and the new weight was 9.2oz, for 2.9oz.

2.9 x 1.25 for a full minute of running = 3.625. Or .03gpm, these were suppose to be rated for .028



At .03gpm that puts me at needing 8.3 injectors, I'm going to try 8 at first as the pump is more than capable of 3xs the 1,000psi rating. Plus I'll have a "wider" throttle range compared to, say, 10 injectors only running to 750psi.

And here's the spray at 1,000psi




I took the motor apart and chucked the shaft into a drill. Then turned the nozzle up and lit the spray with a lighter, had a very clean and hot flame, 0 smoke so I'd say it's atomizing pretty good.

With my annulus combustor having a 4" mean diameter, that puts 8 injectors only 1.5" away from each other, at 56° spray angle, the nozzles spray will "meet" 1.4" away. But the spray will touch the inner and outer liner at only .94" away (1" annulus space, 3" inner, 5" outer) . Is the goal to have the primary holes where the spray would hit the liners? Or would it be better where the fuel spray is all "mixed in"?