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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 9, 2024 18:21:16 GMT -5
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Post by racket on Feb 9, 2024 19:06:44 GMT -5
If you want to seal your fittings , go to a diesel fuel injection shop and get some of their nice push over red sealing caps , I've been using them for years , makes life very easy and prevents crap getting into things.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 10, 2024 11:36:41 GMT -5
If you want to seal your fittings , go to a diesel fuel injection shop and get some of their nice push over red sealing caps , I've been using them for years , makes life very easy and prevents crap getting into things. I'm guessing you're referring to the molotov cocktail style paper towel on the fuel pump lol
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Post by racket on Feb 10, 2024 16:42:05 GMT -5
YEP :-)
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jetmanjoe
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Post by jetmanjoe on Feb 10, 2024 16:44:44 GMT -5
Good news first - the fuel pump works without major leaks... Bad news is the motor maxes out at just over 300 psi when I need 600 for current nozzle.. ![](https://i.ibb.co/z78Kpng/20240207-114316.jpg) What PWM Controller are you using. Alot of the controllers I have been looking at switch the low side (negative side) and have common positive (supply power and motor positive out internally connected) which could spell trouble if the motor finds a way to ground itself.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 10, 2024 17:27:23 GMT -5
Good news first - the fuel pump works without major leaks... Bad news is the motor maxes out at just over 300 psi when I need 600 for current nozzle.. ![](https://i.ibb.co/z78Kpng/20240207-114316.jpg) What PWM Controller are you using. Alot of the controllers I have been looking at switch the low side (negative side) and have common positive (supply power and motor positive out internally connected) which could spell trouble if the motor finds a way to ground itself. Just a bog standard 60a continuous 100a burst Chinese pwm amzn.eu/d/8OfpubWI've wired it so that it's positive from bat to controller pos out to motor and back and controller neg is to ground aka bat neg you can see the controller and wiring in latest pics
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Post by andym on Feb 10, 2024 17:32:57 GMT -5
Good news first - the fuel pump works without major leaks... Bad news is the motor maxes out at just over 300 psi when I need 600 for current nozzle.. ![](https://i.ibb.co/z78Kpng/20240207-114316.jpg) What PWM Controller are you using. Alot of the controllers I have been looking at switch the low side (negative side) and have common positive (supply power and motor positive out internally connected) which could spell trouble if the motor finds a way to ground itself. Yep having more than one ground to the chassis could be bad also......
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 10, 2024 17:41:49 GMT -5
Wiring mostly done, thinking of getting a 24v to 12v 40a converter so I can drain 2 12v bats at the same rate instead of wiring in series and tapping off one for the 12v oil pump. ![](https://i.ibb.co/XCBZ4m1/20240210-212708.jpg)
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jetmanjoe
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Post by jetmanjoe on Feb 10, 2024 17:46:48 GMT -5
I guess that depends on what size batteries you are using and how long you want to run it before charging.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 10, 2024 19:17:00 GMT -5
I guess that depends on what size batteries you are using and how long you want to run it before charging. Whatever I can get for free from the scrapyard or cheap lol, you can get 2 12v 22ah mobility scooter batteries for £70 but I don't think they could take a continuous 45-60a draw so I guess 2 normal car batteries would be a better option
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Post by racket on Feb 10, 2024 19:26:00 GMT -5
Be careful about batteries , if they aren't up to the job , odd things start to happen that its easy to go searching for answers to things that don't exist when all it is , is the battery/s are fading away , they seem to test OK when the engine isn't running which only exacerbates the uncertainties .
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 10, 2024 19:39:48 GMT -5
Only way I could get around having to run 2 bats is to go with 12v on the fuel pump which means only 300psi so would need to get an alternative nozzle although not sure what size since that's 300psi with the 6gph nozzle.
I could get a 24v battery but they're almost as big as the combustion chamber lol
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richardm
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Post by richardm on Feb 10, 2024 20:07:22 GMT -5
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Post by racket on Feb 10, 2024 23:37:13 GMT -5
On my test stand I have a combination of 12 and 24V systems , my engines fuel pump is a 044 pump but running on 24 V from the starter motor batteries ( 2 X car batteries) , it screams its head off but gives me the flow I need at the required pressure , the A/B has 2X 044 pumps running on 12V , low pressure allows plenty of flow .
The ancillories like ignition , oilpump , A/B fuel pumps and 12V relays run off a combined car and deep cycle pair of batteries .
Your 24V fuel pump won't be drawing a lot of amps on 24 V
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 11, 2024 4:24:08 GMT -5
On my test stand I have a combination of 12 and 24V systems , my engines fuel pump is a 044 pump but running on 24 V from the starter motor batteries ( 2 X car batteries) , it screams its head off but gives me the flow I need at the required pressure , the A/B has 2X 044 pumps running on 12V , low pressure allows plenty of flow . The ancillories like ignition , oilpump , A/B fuel pumps and 12V relays run off a combined car and deep cycle pair of batteries . Your 24V fuel pump won't be drawing a lot of amps on 24 V Pump says 26a on it so with load I'm gonna guess closer to 30/35 at full throttle, oil pump says 23 so again probably closer to 30a continous when it's cold. Gauges and relays etc probably 1/2a draw. Oil pump might only draw a lower amount I don't know yet as next thing to test after combustion chamber, I'll see what idle/full pulls for the fuel as well.
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