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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 12, 2020 10:09:40 GMT -5
Pipeshop did a wonderful job on the thin aluminium, not bad for a shipyard ha.
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Post by racket on Oct 12, 2020 15:57:03 GMT -5
Remember to allow 6-8 mm for potential relative axial expansion of the flametube compared to the outer can during a "hot start" , without that allowance the flametube will jam between scroll and combustor top cap . Yep , using a plain cone for the funnel then "squaring off" the outlet to fit the scroll inlet works OK , I used that method on my GT6041 jetandturbineowners.proboards.com/attachment/download/178 but had a dedicated "snout" fitted to the TV84 flametube ibb.co/zNcnSHh both have their positives and negatives.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 12, 2020 16:55:53 GMT -5
Would it be better to square off the funnel or do the little extension piece which could be used to allow for the expansion?
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Post by racket on Oct 12, 2020 19:25:00 GMT -5
The snout method requires a bit more work but does produce a more "reliable ??" slipjoint whereas the funnel manipulation is simpler but not quite as nice a finish and it requires more work getting the overall length just right , as I said in my email , pros and cons .
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 12, 2020 19:55:23 GMT -5
Well the one I roughly modeled above is a sorta hybrid since it wouldn't be sliding over the cone and joining where it intersects but joining directly only the cone so the cone roughly forms the shape and the 10mm extension goes to the final shape.
Will have a play about if I can get some thin mild steel to test with, no point reinventing the wheel anyway when you've done all the research haha
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Post by racket on Oct 12, 2020 21:17:50 GMT -5
Also remember the stainless section that fits into the slipjoint needs to be a rattly fit as it'll expand considerably more than the heavy section steel surrounding it , both because of temp differences and expansion coefficient
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 13, 2020 5:49:56 GMT -5
Oil sensor rail is almost done, drilled out on the lathe at the engineers shop. Just need to drill and tap the 1/8 bsp/npt ports along it. 7/8th aluminium bar sanded down on ends to fit the 22mm compression fittings.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 13, 2020 12:12:17 GMT -5
Took the hacksaw to the fuel motor shaft to remove the double flats and threaded section that the chain gear usually goes on and now the coupling that arrived today fit's perfectly. Might shorten the pumps shaft to make it more compact but will leave it for now.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 14, 2020 9:26:18 GMT -5
Hi all,
What do you use for sealing/locking threads running kerosene? Was thinking of just dowty washers on bsp/bsp sections and threadlocker on bsp/bspt sections but what kind of sealant/locker? Loctite 542, hylomar HY5172?
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Post by racket on Oct 14, 2020 16:48:19 GMT -5
I've used Loctite Hydraulic SEALER 569 for fluid/air sealing of threads as well as using it as a general nut/bolt thread locker for bits I need to take apart, its versatile :-)
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ausjet
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 133
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Post by ausjet on Oct 14, 2020 16:57:53 GMT -5
Hi all, What do you use for sealing/locking threads running kerosene? Was thinking of just dowty washers on bsp/bsp sections and threadlocker on bsp/bspt sections but what kind of sealant/locker? Loctite 542, hylomar HY5172? I use loctite thread sealant 567 on all tapered threads. Works well and easy to remove fittings when needed. (Unlike 577 which I often find needs heat to remove the fittings) Loctite 569 also works. Dowty washers on parallel threads. Don’t use thread locker. Makes disassembly a nightmare.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 14, 2020 18:54:12 GMT -5
I use loctite thread sealant 567 on all tapered threads. Works well and easy to remove fittings when needed. (Unlike 577 which I often find needs heat to remove the fittings) Loctite 569 also works. Dowty washers on parallel threads. Don’t use thread locker. Makes disassembly a nightmare. The only disassembly I'd end up doing is rapid unscheduled disassembly lol, hopefully it doesn't come to that ha.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 14, 2020 19:04:13 GMT -5
Got some cardboard boxes out the recycling bin and roughly made up the c/c diameter and the potential elbow, personally I think it looks alright with a 100mm radius on the shorter side. Think I'll go 6-8mm on the flat sides and 3mm on the 100mm radius and 5mm on the 188mm radius so it'll have strength with the 6-8mm and the gasses hitting the back curve won't destroy it rapidly by having it thick but still bendable.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Oct 15, 2020 8:36:46 GMT -5
Pipeshop has finished, done an amazing job and saved me putting more holes in than needed lol.
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sik6
New Member
Joined: September 2020
Posts: 7
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Post by sik6 on Oct 15, 2020 12:32:27 GMT -5
If you don't mind me asking, Is that threaded hole for liquid fuel drain?
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