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Post by racket on May 7, 2021 23:25:10 GMT -5
Hi Guys Started pulling CHRA apart . The left hand nut needed ~70 ft lbs of torque to crack it , then a bit of comp warming and it slid off OK A large circlip holding "the guts" in place The comp piston ring holder was easily removed with a bit of gentle prying The main clamping piece that the circlip held in place was a bit harder to remove as it has a large O'ring sealing its outer wall This revealed a lube deflector shield which once removed exposed the thrust washer and bronze thrust bearing which is pinned for location The bronze thrust bearing didn't want to move off its locating pin but a bit of gentle pushing with a length of alloy drift through the tunnel and some wobbling of the plate had it coming out. Then a case of removing the other thrust washer Then into the brass bushes , the comp one was easy as the thrust washer kept it in place , but the turb end needed the circlips removing Oil to the thrust bearing is via the hole near the locating pin . I slipped on the KTS 130/180mm comp to see what it'd look like And finally I needed to measure up the max distance between comp and turb wheels with a view to flametube possible length Turbine wheel/shaft weighs in at ~3100 grams , the comp wheel at ~1100 grams , a 4200 gram rotative , kinda heavy , it won't be a fast acceleration of the rotor . The thrust bearing is interesting in that it has different diameter thrust lands from one side to the other , the main "forward" load is much bigger than the "bump" bearing . Now I need to measure everything accurately and figure out how to "modify" the thrust bearing mounting into my engine design , I'd like to move the comp as far forward on the shaft as possible to increase flametube length Cheers John
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Post by madpatty on May 8, 2021 6:56:41 GMT -5
Hi Racket.
This CHRA looks strikingly similar to the holset CHRAs I have worked with over the years, especially smaller HX35 and HX40 ones. Really simple and easy to replicate.
The distance between compressor and turbine is what. 170mm approx?
Cheers. Patty
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Post by racket on May 8, 2021 17:18:17 GMT -5
Hi Patty
Maybe 150-160 mm , but should allow a flametube at least 30-40% longer than the one I used in the 12/118 engine which will hopefully simplify combustion by providing a better L/W ratio for the annulus .
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 17, 2021 20:02:15 GMT -5
Hi Guys A few pics of the diffuser . Setting out the spacing and angles Glueing on the diffuser wedges , 13 of with an 18 degree wedge centre line at 24 degrees above tangent , wedges have a 2 degree release angle on their sides Still waiting on the chinese comp wheels to be shipped , so making the diffuser for the high pressure KTS 130/180 wheel Cheers John
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Post by slittlewing on May 23, 2021 6:17:13 GMT -5
Hi John,
Looking good!! How did you decide on the angles and spacing for the diffuser? I know it needs a different number of wedges to the number of comp blades to avoid harmonic issues but thatβs all π
Will you cast this at home?
Cheers
Scott
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Post by racket on May 23, 2021 17:26:21 GMT -5
Hi Scott
Theres a bit involved with getting the air angle at the diffuser vane tip , theres considerable diffusion in the vaneless space between exducer and vane tip , so speeds drop and angles change depending on the height of the vane and the available cross sectional area , things can be "fiddled" a tad to achieve desired outcomes , I'm hopefull that by adjusting the vane heights I can use the same diffuser for both the KTS and Chinese wheels at their different Pressure Ratios and RPM tip speeds .
I chose 13 vanes as it worked OK with the 12/118 engine and will be useable with either a 14 or 16 bladed comp wheel .
I'll send the patterns down to my fellow collaberator Andrew in Melbourne who gets them professionally cast and heat treated in a tough alloy .
Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 25, 2021 23:54:42 GMT -5
Hi Guys The diffuser is finished and ready to be packaged up and sent off for castings to be made :-) Looks "just right" with the 130/180 wheel sitting inside it . It takes twice as long to make the patterns as machining the castings Cheers John
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Post by pitciblackscotland on May 26, 2021 1:07:24 GMT -5
Hi John, Diffuser looking good Are you going to cast the NGV part this time? Cheers, Mark.
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Post by racket on May 26, 2021 1:46:33 GMT -5
Hi Mark
I'd love a cast NGV , but Andrew tried to get one done for me years ago and wasn't able to , might need to ask him again , it was more than a decade ago , it'd save a couple of weeks work carving away a big lump of stainless, I think I still have some suitably shaped timber for the vanes from last time .
Cheers John
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Post by slittlewing on May 26, 2021 16:18:51 GMT -5
The diffuser is looking great John ππ Nice that it can be tailored to be used with either comp wheel spec too.
Cheers Scott
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Post by racket on May 28, 2021 4:09:49 GMT -5
Hi Guys I've been attempting to get my shaft tunnel worked out , so made up a wooden dummy to see how things would fit , my current 85mm dia is a tad too small , looks like 89 mm required so that theres enough space available . Then it was the turn of getting the length "just right" , 106.5 mm seems to be whats needed This give enough distance between shaft tunnel and turbine wheel for mounting the NGV with its piston ring seal shroud Now all I need is a chunk of 90 mm alloy round bar Cheers John
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Post by racket on May 28, 2021 20:31:33 GMT -5
Hi Guys LOL.......I'm getting enthusiastic about the build so decided to tackle the turb exducer mods . Original exducer tip angle was a very shallow 25 degrees , great for extracting every last bit of energy from the diesels exhaust but not necessary for a jet engine where the extra flow area from the clipping means more mass flow and thrust . The 25 degree exducer gave ~7.46 sq ins of flow area , at 40 degrees its now ~10.2 sq ins , a 37% increase , 40 degrees is what our TV94 turb wheel exducers are at , the G Trim turb wheel in the 12/118 ( thanks Monty ) has an area of ~7.86 sq ins and I was able to get ~195 lbs of thrust out of it , with ~30% more exducer flow area , 250 lbs might be worth aiming for A few pics of the "dirty job" , a couple of hours work slowly taking off 0.015" per cut Cheers John
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dieselguy86
Veteran Member
Joined: September 2014
Posts: 187
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Post by dieselguy86 on May 28, 2021 20:57:05 GMT -5
John,
I can feel the grit in my eyes and teeth just looking at those pics lol.
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Post by pitciblackscotland on May 28, 2021 21:38:12 GMT -5
Hi John, Thanks for showing your work I'm trying to send you a email but not working at the moment regarding alloy round bar, i have some if you want Cheers, Mark.
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Post by racket on May 28, 2021 21:41:27 GMT -5
Hi Joe
Yep , lotsa grit and the stink of the side grinder wheel , gets everywhere :-(
Cheers John
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