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Post by racket on Mar 2, 2024 19:42:59 GMT -5
In addition to my earlier email , one other thing ..............what compressor discharge pressure ( P2) are/were you running at ??
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sharky
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Posts: 26
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Post by sharky on Mar 3, 2024 13:07:46 GMT -5
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sharky
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Posts: 26
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Post by sharky on Mar 3, 2024 14:35:09 GMT -5
As far p2, the only gauge I’ve bought is the oil one so I have no idea
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richardm
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Posts: 261
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Post by richardm on Mar 3, 2024 15:04:36 GMT -5
DIAMETER OF TURBO INTAKE: I assume these are millimeters How do you get to an area of 4536 from a 76 mm diameter ? 76 AREA OF TURBO INTAKE: 4536.459792
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richardm
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Post by richardm on Mar 3, 2024 15:08:29 GMT -5
OUps disregard I misread something here ..
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Post by racket on Mar 3, 2024 16:43:41 GMT -5
Hi
Without a P2 gauge you're flying blind , very dangerous :-(
Your overheating could simply be because you're trying to run at barely self sustain levels, our engines like to run at >5 psi P2 where component efficiencies start to be acceptable, you may be removing the starter too early , in which case adding extra fuel will only exacerbate the situation leading to severe over heating and potential "meltdown" as the engine is unable to "get over the hump" and accelerate to higher rpm , its a hung start scenario , the only option is to either reapply your blower starter or shutdown the engine and start again .
Your video did show a very quick spoolup .
How is your flametube "sealed" at the outlet end, is there a slipjoint ??
Axial expansion of the flametube is much greater than the outer can so some mechanism for handling that difference is required whilst maintaining acceptable "sealing" , a bit of leakage at the slipjoint is OK
Your air delivery tube is protruding into the gap between flametube and outer can , this will harm the flow of air and cause problems , ideally we need an increase in flow area at that point to minimise restriction and the creation of backpressure on the compressor .
Cheers John
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sharky
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Posts: 26
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Post by sharky on Mar 4, 2024 6:34:54 GMT -5
Ok, where’s the best place for me to put the pressure gauge?
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sharky
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Posts: 26
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Post by sharky on Mar 4, 2024 6:37:44 GMT -5
And for the flame tube seal, there is a ring that it fits inside at the turbo end. I realize that this probably isn’t best and a ring that fits over the outside wound be better but I just dont think there’s any way I’m replacing it without cutting apart the whole thing.
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Post by racket on Mar 4, 2024 16:18:24 GMT -5
Hi
Pressure gauge pickup in a quiet corner of the combustor where airflow speeds are low .
As long as theres a "seal" it'll be OK .
Cheers John
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sharky
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Post by sharky on Mar 5, 2024 6:59:15 GMT -5
Ok great thanks!
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sharky
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Posts: 26
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Post by sharky on Apr 2, 2024 8:10:39 GMT -5
So I sealed up all the leaks, ground down the compressor tube, and added a p2 gauge, and it works! I attached a video and the only thing I’m noticing now is the pressure while running with just a dull red ring on the turbine, is around 3psi. I’m not sure it really matters at this point but it might be nice to know why. Thanks! youtu.be/3koPw4F7T9Y?si=wroAco5i7DgmwuBZ
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richardm
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Post by richardm on Apr 2, 2024 10:36:02 GMT -5
Nice but ...Ouch ! At mark 0 :48 you seem to get a little excited twisting the valve open too fast. Open it up a bit slower, give the turbo time to spool up as you feed more fuel It will keep the turbine cooler. And dont expose yourself into direct exhaust path You never know what could be ejected out. Specially after that heat you gave it.
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Post by racket on Apr 2, 2024 17:59:32 GMT -5
Thats getting better :-)
3 psi is a tad low hence temps still pretty hot , try at least 5psi as the comp/turb should be running a tad more efficient which should lower your temperatures
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sharky
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Posts: 26
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Post by sharky on Apr 3, 2024 8:44:28 GMT -5
Ok, is boosting the psi just a matter of throttling up?
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Post by racket on Apr 3, 2024 14:57:58 GMT -5
More fuel
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