wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Sept 5, 2012 20:56:25 GMT -5
I was thinking about that one myself too...
I know the 3 diaphragm design is a little pulse-y, I wonder how effective a section of larger tubing off a T and sitting vertically would do... something in the realm of 1-2" Diameter with a length of say 6"... Let the flow beat itself smooth against the ullage (dead air space)
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Post by racket on Sept 6, 2012 0:42:02 GMT -5
Yeh , 2" dia by 9 inches , at 60 psi there'll be a couple of inches of air in the top to soften the pulsing .
When I had pulsing problems with the fuel pressure on the turbine bike I fitted a DIY accumulator to help smooth things out , the previous pulsing gave the impression of surge as the combustion was unsteady due to the IC engine driven gear fuel pump running at uneven rpm . ..........I had to use 2" steel steam pipe as the fuel pressures were getting up towards 1,000 psi at the time .
Cheers John
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8maddog8
Member
Joined: July 2012
Posts: 24
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Post by 8maddog8 on Sept 6, 2012 4:22:35 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback guys. This is how i currently have the oil system setup: Does this look to be set out right? Should i be looking at putting a damper of some sort in there somewhere? I just want to make sure i have it 100% before i start anything up. Cheers
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Post by racket on Sept 6, 2012 18:04:42 GMT -5
As long as the accumulator is downstream of the pump .
Please don't use hose to supply the turbo , metal tubing can't be degraded by the radiant heat from the turb scroll , a burst rubber hose and you've got oil spraying on a hot turb scroll and a fireball .
Cheers John
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wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Sept 6, 2012 20:46:41 GMT -5
get some annealed copper tubing from the hardware store and use flared or compression fittings, I already melted some "high temperature" hose from mcmaster carr in a test...
If you can't find annealed copper (soft and flexy) you can make hard copper flexy again by heating it red hot with a torch and then quenching it (and even the quench doesn't HAVE to happen) in water, yes this is the opposite behavior as steels...
Oh and when you are bending the tubing and such, if it gets a bit stiffer due to work hardening, anneal it again, or it might just crack.
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Post by racket on Sept 6, 2012 21:26:52 GMT -5
Hi Wolf
We have to make sure that any scaling of the copper during the home annealing is removed from the inside of the tubing before connecting to the turbo as the scale will block the fine oilways and a wrecked turbo will be the result ......................having done a fair bit of home plumbing over the years using copper pipe and seen the rubbish that is flushed out on first flows of the water , its a worrying proposition .
I'd suggest using commercially annealed copper tube as first chose but have found that hard drawn is fine if bent using a bender , I wouldn't do any DIY annealing as its virtually impossible to be sure all scale is removed from the tubes interior.
I get paranoid about "rubbish" getting into my turbos bearings
Cheers John
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8maddog8
Member
Joined: July 2012
Posts: 24
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Post by 8maddog8 on Sept 6, 2012 22:55:15 GMT -5
Made up a 3" by 9" damper with a single inlet/outlet at the bottom that should hopefully help with the pulsing. Will plumb it between the pump and the filter.
And will change the turbo inlet to copper tubing.
Will rubber be fine for the turbo outlet, or should i be going to copper there as well?
Cheers
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GrantB
Junior Member
Joined: February 2012
Posts: 61
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Post by GrantB on Sept 6, 2012 23:16:32 GMT -5
You will want to use copper there as well. An adequate drain on most turbos will put the line quite close and the radiant heat will cook your line in no time. I would not worry about using a rubber line maybe 6-9 inches past any hot exhaust parts but a copper drain would be a good route to go.
Good Luck!
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Post by racket on Sept 6, 2012 23:22:00 GMT -5
I've used a couple of inches of plastic/rubber tubing between the turbo drain and a metal drain pipe to provide some flexibility , it can get a bit scorched but as theres no pressure its not such a problem, it can be wrapped in a bit of kitchen foil for radiation protection .
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8maddog8
Member
Joined: July 2012
Posts: 24
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Post by 8maddog8 on Oct 11, 2012 15:05:45 GMT -5
So i finally got to do some more on this last night (been on leave the last few weeks).
What do people use to seal the oil inlet and outlet on the turbo? The surface between the turbo and the 10mm plate/flange.
Also, what do people use to seal up the flanges of the combustion chamber? Whats able to handle the high temps?
Cheers
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Post by racket on Oct 11, 2012 15:32:36 GMT -5
Gasket paper is used on oil drains , not too thin though, the thicker stuff ~0.020" - 0.5mm ,
DO NOT use any sealant , it can get into the system and unless you have a good filter can block the turbos finer oil galleries if its pumped through to them .
NEVER use thread tape on the oil inlet fittings
Cheers John
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8maddog8
Member
Joined: July 2012
Posts: 24
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Post by 8maddog8 on Oct 18, 2012 18:23:10 GMT -5
So i finally got some more time over the last week to continue with this. Pulled everything apart and painted, and did all the plumbing. Hopefully with be able to fit the gauges and do the electrics this weekend.
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Post by Johansson on Oct 19, 2012 3:41:12 GMT -5
Neat! Your rig is looking great.
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8maddog8
Member
Joined: July 2012
Posts: 24
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Post by 8maddog8 on Oct 29, 2012 18:21:23 GMT -5
So i finally got some more time over the weekend and last night to keep going with this. Pretty much got all of the electrical side of things done. Was ready to test it all out until i realised the battery was flat So battery should be charged by tonight and can hopefully test everything I really hope i dont find any oil leaks....
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Post by racket on Oct 30, 2012 1:41:47 GMT -5
LOL..............why do batteries go flat when we don't use them .
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