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Post by pabloottawa on May 19, 2013 11:04:21 GMT -5
Hello everyone, my name is Pablo, and I recently bought a RR Nimbus MK105 and put it to work - here's the link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5zgC8RjHiU&feature=youtu.beI will be reaching out to the forum members for help and assistance, as my turbine seems to need an overhaul (oil leaks everywhere). And I will be more than happy to contribute with information / learned lessons on my own. Cheers, Pablo |
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Post by ernie wrenn on May 19, 2013 15:31:58 GMT -5
Check with Chris Krug on the board.. He is the Nimbus guy..
ernie
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Post by turbochris on May 20, 2013 18:08:28 GMT -5
Where are you seeing the oil leaking?
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Post by pabloottawa on May 21, 2013 9:24:05 GMT -5
Oil leaking from two places:
1 - the scavenging oil pipes coming out from the rear bearing - I've been told it's normal, but still. I may replace the gaskets on those.
2 - the gearbox. Seems to be leaking oil from every gasket, but mostly from the connection to the oil cooler fan.
I checked your RR Nimbus Minivan project. Do you have anything attached to the oil cooler fan connection? How do you seal that output?
Thanks,
Pablo
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Post by turbochris on May 23, 2013 9:04:05 GMT -5
Yeah same troubles.... o-rings we a little flat in certain areas. Get an o-ring assortment kit. I removed the 90 degree drive and put an alu cover over it. I considered an oil cooler, i run maybe 10-15 minutes tops at 60-70 percent average when I'm on the highway.
What are you putting it in? Gearbox design is the key to using this engine, unless you want to castrate it by converting it to thrust.
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Post by ernie wrenn on May 23, 2013 11:48:18 GMT -5
Why does "castrate" and thrust have to be in the same sentence?
That HURTS!!!
ernie
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Post by racket on May 23, 2013 18:52:14 GMT -5
Hi Chris LOL......I like that, describes it perfectly ,.............. cutting off the freepower reduces its performance to a quarter . I did some numbers for my first turbine bike www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-5PgWqgIJo , working on a 0-100kph-60mph in 4.6 sec and neglecting any wind resistance , for an allup weight of bike and rider of ~815 lbs , it required a "thrust" of ~450 lbs to be generated between tyre and road , but the Garrett TV84 turbo gas producer as a pure jet never produced more than 110 lbs of thrust. Cheers John |
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Post by pabloottawa on May 24, 2013 7:13:03 GMT -5
Castrate the turbine... very accurate choice of words... I won't do that as it wasn't designed to be a thrust engine, some guy in the UK (Justin Woolgar) converted it to thrust and put it on a Land Rover - it won't even budge. I don't have a target vehicle for it yet but I know it will be drag racing  Thanks for the advice on the oil rings and the 90 degree drive. Will follow it. Cheers, Pablo |
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Post by turbochris on May 24, 2013 7:28:03 GMT -5
Ernie, the motors you play w only have free turbines when they need to power a ship. You're fine.
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Post by ernie wrenn on May 24, 2013 9:14:45 GMT -5
I was worried more about the "castrate" part.
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cursorkeys
Veteran Member
Proper engines use the Brayton cycle
Joined: July 2012
Posts: 108
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Post by cursorkeys on May 28, 2013 11:39:30 GMT -5
Castrate the turbine... very accurate choice of words... I won't do that as it wasn't designed to be a thrust engine, some guy in the UK (Justin Woolgar) converted it to thrust and put it on a Land Rover - it won't even budge. I don't have a target vehicle for it yet but I know it will be drag racing Thanks for the advice on the oil rings and the 90 degree drive. Will follow it. Cheers, Pablo I have Justin's old engine The rear bearing assembly is very ill so I'm overhauling it completely. I've run the numbers myself based on the nozzle Justin had fabricated and I think his nozzle diameter was considerably oversized which resulting in very little thrust. He also did not run it up past about 85%. With a correct sized nozzle I think the performance could be quite respectable. Andy Pleszko has a thrust-converted Nimbus in a Transit van and he says he is quite happy with the thrust (his Nozzle diameter is very close to what I calculated). Andy also tried reheat which resulted in possibly the loudest thing known to man: www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8rMP1vvur0&list=UU153Y4SZkf4m1-rfGAZddWQ&index=26Interestingly his engine suffered a complete circumferential crack of the rear bearing housing after his afterburner experiments. I suggested it was damage caused by the afterburner screech as he didn't have a perforated liner? |
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Post by pabloottawa on May 28, 2013 18:13:06 GMT -5
Ha! I stand corrected then - Please let us know when you've tried the redesigned nozzle.
I watched Andrew's video, you're correct as "possibly the loudest thing known to man". I bet the neighbours are not impressed.
P.
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Post by racket on May 28, 2013 19:08:12 GMT -5
That A/B in the vid has a very "pulsy" sound to it , sorta like a DIY engined A/B when running in surge , not good :-(
A simple jet pipe total pressure gauge would have enabled the A/B nozzle calibration.
Cheers
John
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Post by ernie wrenn on May 29, 2013 6:56:00 GMT -5
Tail pipe opening is to small. The back pressure causes the screeching noise, like a cutting torch. Looks like the transition pipe should be larger and exhaust pipe approx 14 inches.
ernie
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Post by turbochris on May 29, 2013 10:40:23 GMT -5
got pictures of the crack?
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