metiz
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 297
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Post by metiz on Jun 19, 2011 17:56:33 GMT -5
Runs like a champ good work. How much do these engines go for, and wher do you get them? I've seen smaller engines than that go for like 1500$
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Post by Johansson on Jun 20, 2011 0:17:28 GMT -5
I bought this one used for 1250£ from England, not cheap but a great engine that will outlive me if taken care of.
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wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Jun 20, 2011 9:13:16 GMT -5
Anders,
Just for comparison sake for people seeing your engine and machinery for the first time...
What is a manufacturer and models of the mill, lathe, welder, etc... The big shop items...
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Post by Johansson on Jun 20, 2011 11:13:49 GMT -5
The mill, lathe and band saw are a chinese no-name brand sold by a company here in Sweden, the AC/DC Tig welder is a french IMS and the plasma cutter is a Helvi.
No high tech brands at all, just a pinhole or two above the worst crap.
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Post by Johansson on Jun 20, 2011 15:16:29 GMT -5
Today I soldered together a PWM controller that Olov so kindly donated to me yesterday, I will use it to throttle the engine by controlling the speed of the fuel pump. A nice little package, a box and an external pot and it is finished.
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Post by racket on Jun 20, 2011 16:51:47 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Neat unit :-)
I was talking to Andrew last night and he's been having some good results with his "electronic" throttle as well , might be time to bring the two designs together for a "comparison" to see how each design has been approached and any good/bad points can be added or removed .
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Jun 20, 2011 23:08:31 GMT -5
Ah dammit, I forgot to ask him about his throttle. I´ll drop him an email right away!
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Post by Johansson on Jul 4, 2011 15:04:48 GMT -5
I got the rev counter that I ordered a couple of weeks ago, John gave me a hint about this one with the reservation that it wasn´t known to the DIY community if it would work. I deemed it a worthy challenge and here it is, as soon as I get the new workshop sorted out (and the rest of the house as well if you ask my better half...) I will spend some time trying to figure out the easiest way to count the rotor revs. One brilliant thing is that it can be set to divide the reading before it is displayed, so if I bounce an IR signal off the 6 sided nut I can program the counter to divide the reading by 6 to get the true rpm. Great stuff!
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wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Jul 4, 2011 15:53:45 GMT -5
I'm cheating, I am playing with a IR LED and a divider/counter chip to feed an aftermarket automotive tachometer, just have to realize that there is another zero that isn't written on the dial
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Post by racket on Jul 4, 2011 17:09:51 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Good to see you're back with us , I hope the house shift is going well , settle the "better half's" needs first for a happy life :-)
It'll be a great relief to the DIY building community once we know what Aubrins part goes with what other part to make a complete tach unit that us non electrically minded Members can buy "off the shelf" and use with confidence , ....................confidence is often lacking with cobbled together "home made" units , an overspeed situation from an unreliable tach isn't something we want to contemplate :-(
Looking forward to hearing more :-)
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Jul 6, 2011 0:39:59 GMT -5
I don´t see any reason why we shouldn´t be able to make a bullet proof rev counter from this module, so stay tuned for updates. We moved the mill last night so now the entire workshop is at the new house, had to leave it a couple of days until we figured out how to move it since it weighs quite a lot and was standing in an underground garage. Lucky for me that Olov has a strong back. ;D
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wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Jul 6, 2011 6:11:30 GMT -5
I'm sure that chain winch is for holding the sky in place while the mill is in use lol
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Post by ernie wrenn on Jul 6, 2011 8:37:48 GMT -5
NO>>>> It is used to raise and lower the cutting depth.. It is a Mexian manual' system not CNC.
ernie
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Post by Johansson on Jul 14, 2011 1:04:13 GMT -5
Yesterday night I made the first hours of work in the new workshop, I started to build the jig for the bike frame. 70x70mm square profile steel should be stiff enough for the jig. Making front fork spacers on the lathe. Sawing holes for the spacers. Ready for welding. Welded. Here is the front forks fitted to the jig, the angle is determined by the trail that should be 13cm according to the pro´s. I want to get a high angle on the forks to make the bike as low as possible so if the triple tree clamps don´t allow it (its geometry determines the max angle at 13cm trail) I might have to make my own triple tree clamps. We´ll see how it turns out. Cheers!
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Post by racket on Jul 14, 2011 4:29:03 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Heh heh , nice clean workshop ;-))
Cheers John
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