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Post by Johansson on Oct 7, 2011 13:42:20 GMT -5
I am not sure that I would trust any spring loaded contraption, I need to be able to control when I purge the engine since any spilled oil on the racetrack would send me back to the pits with the safety guys footprint in my behind. Silver soldering would have been the better choice, I love my tig but sometimes I might have to consider another way of fastening things... Thanks, we´ll have a great time next weekend! It is more or less the complete Speed Weekend crew so we won´t have problems finding things to discuss in the sauna.
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Post by racket on Oct 7, 2011 17:14:21 GMT -5
Hi Anders
You'll probably be needing a "catch tank" for oil tank breather , gearbox breather and combustor drain to become "legal"
Heh heh , you'll have plenty of bragging rites with the guys now that you've got your engine running , it'll hopefully shame them into getting their own creations going ..................have they fired up that big PJ yet ??
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Oct 8, 2011 0:35:54 GMT -5
True, and with the catch tank vent routed to the exhaust any smoke from the hot oil will magically disappear (or blend with the rest of the smoke) so the safety guys won´t have anything to complain about. Sadly not, and I don´t really understand what´s keeping them since they only need to make a new set of valves that won´t seal as hard as the ones they use now. They are workaholics all three so spare time seems to be very limited, but I hope they will find time soon since we are plenty of guys here that wants to see the beast running.
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Post by Johansson on Oct 8, 2011 15:49:32 GMT -5
This saturday evening was spent in the workshop making buckles for the engine casing, this wasn´t how I imagined I would fix the front end but I think it turned out really well since the buckles are fully adjustable as well as sturdy as hell. The buckles ready to be fitted to the engine. Drill drill, I chose pop rivets instead of welding to avoid distorsion caused by the weld. Here is the upper bracket, it is adjusted by adding washers under it. Here is one of the two lower brackets, they are fitted to the front engine mount and are adjusted with the M6 nuts. And here is an overview, not much left to do now before the engine is ready to be assembled again. Cheers!
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Post by Johansson on Oct 9, 2011 1:07:51 GMT -5
By the way guys, any comments on the flame tube heat pattern?
At the place where the two air deflectors were fitted (the ones steering the incoming air towards the shaft tunnel) the flame tube was blueish from the front wall to the teritary holes while in the other places the pattern started at the secondary hole row.
Perhaps I shouldn´t read to much into it until I´ve had the engine running on more normal revs, the preheat gas might also have contributed to the larger heat footprint at the bottom part of the flame tube.
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Post by ernie wrenn on Oct 9, 2011 14:53:42 GMT -5
I thik the pre heat had a lot to do with the pattern. Both starts were rough but it did run. A little more run time will give a better burn pattern. How much growth is the overall engine going to have? Just thinking about buckling with heat expansion. ernie
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Post by racket on Oct 9, 2011 16:36:39 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Yep , I agree with your thoughts on the heat pattern , first spoolups with all their attendant problems don't provide the best guide to "normal" running conditions , it sort of normal for the front wall to run "cold" along with the first bit of the side walls .
You still might have to stagger the deflectors rather than have them in blocks as the air exiting the diffuser is travelling pretty quick and might find it hard to swing around to the primary holes behind the large deflector block , you may end up with a "low pressure??" area behind the deflector , I'm not certain what might happen , but you will need to keep an eye on it I feel
Cheers John
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Post by Richard OConnell on Oct 9, 2011 23:29:36 GMT -5
It looks like with some of the puckers on your punch angles, you should already be getting some low pressure zones. I've been pretty busy lately, but if I can get some time together i'll model your flame tube and run a fluid simulation in Blender (or Cryengine3 if I get bored). If I can get to it, I'll send you the vids and make some alterations to the tube's design and send you more vids to show how its changing. Its pretty interesting stuff
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Post by Johansson on Oct 10, 2011 6:53:34 GMT -5
Ernie: I haven´t done any calcs on the engine growth, but with the shaft tunnel properly shielded the only part getting really hot is the NGV vanes. I haven´t found any figures for how much a 15mm lenght of SS2368 will grow in 900°C thought.
John: Perhaps I could try to add a hole in each deflector 1/3 or so of the area of the two diffusor channels it is covering? That way there pressure drop behind it should decrease significantly.
Richard: That would be extremely kind of you, it would be really interesting to see a flow pattern of the chamber and if it is possible to tweak the worst problems out of it with the fluid simulation it would save countless hours of experimentation for me.
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Post by Johansson on Oct 10, 2011 14:23:35 GMT -5
Today I got the landspeed front fender I ordered a while ago from Airtech Streamlining! It covers the entire upper half of the front wheel and that is necessary since the air intake to the engine will be sitting just above the front wheel and I need to make sure that no dirt or gravel is thrown into it. I need to make some minor adjustments to it before I can fit it to the front forks, but that will have to wait until the rest of the bike is finished so I won´t make any stupid mistakes. It cost a bit to much to be thrown at the garbage pile...
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metiz
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 297
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Post by metiz on Oct 11, 2011 10:43:10 GMT -5
Hey Anders Project's coming along nicely, realy professional for an amateur Have you thought about tires and suspension? You don't want a flat on the salt(?) at 300kp/h
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Post by Johansson on Oct 11, 2011 13:03:08 GMT -5
Thanks Metiz! The tires are >270km/h-rated Michelin Pilot Power which should be good for speeds well above 300km/h, the front suspension is an upside-down GSXR750 fork and the rear suspension is whatever the chromemoly frame might flex. I chose a stiff rear because of the simplicity and the added space inside the frame, I will need all available room for the auxiliary equipment.
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Post by racket on Oct 12, 2011 3:07:00 GMT -5
Hi Anders
LOL, you could always mount a sprung saddle for a bit of comfort :-)
Cheers John
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Post by ernie wrenn on Oct 12, 2011 8:01:56 GMT -5
I don't think he needs a spring under his arsh at high speed. What does he wieght 150 pounds wet. Screw his ass to the seat, it will be safer..
ernie
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Post by Johansson on Oct 13, 2011 0:08:49 GMT -5
I am trying to picture that Ernie and I don´t like the view... ;D
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