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Post by ernie wrenn on Dec 12, 2011 18:01:15 GMT -5
When is Speed Week for the Kick? Get a lot of video up. Everything is getting slow state side. All the racing is over and we need some new pics and ideas.
ernie
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Post by turbochris on Dec 12, 2011 19:20:16 GMT -5
Anders, you're one persevering motherfucker. Someone told me that once, despite being called a motherfucker, the persevering part made it all good. It was actually one of the best compliments I ever received.
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Post by Johansson on Dec 13, 2011 0:54:13 GMT -5
Hi Anders, Really enjoying your build info and photos, keep 'em coming..! I wish I had some of your equipment in my little workshop. Great workmanship and interesting ideas..! Cheers, Smithy. Thanks a lot Smithy, I appreciate it. Although my workshop equipment is not as good as it once was, my friend has managed to find both an industrial mill and lathe for not much money at all so my tools suddenly looks like something from a toy factory... ;D
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Post by Johansson on Dec 13, 2011 1:02:58 GMT -5
When is Speed Week for the Kick? Get a lot of video up. Everything is getting slow state side. All the racing is over and we need some new pics and ideas. ernie It is in the middle of March, at the moment I don´t even know if I can go since I managed to stick my little dingeling in my feance 9 months before race date... ;D
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Post by Johansson on Dec 13, 2011 1:03:31 GMT -5
Anders, you're one persevering motherfucker. Someone told me that once, despite being called a motherfucker, the persevering part made it all good. It was actually one of the best compliments I ever received. Ha ha, thanks I guess... ;D
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Post by ernie wrenn on Dec 13, 2011 8:02:32 GMT -5
If you put your "dingley" into to the mill, THAT problem can be solved and the tailpipe heat wont hurt as bad..
Congrats!!!
Ernie
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Post by turbochris on Dec 13, 2011 12:40:58 GMT -5
ha ha a little one on the way! You know they can hear things in the womb. Let the little one hear the turbines run as much as possible!
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Post by Johansson on Dec 13, 2011 17:53:28 GMT -5
It is my second one so I am starting to get used to riding doggy, waking up to a puking girlfriend and so on... ;D A friend of mine came over a number of electrical motors with planetary gearboxes a couple of weeks ago and asked me if I was interested in one or two, well of course I was! I just so happened to be nearby last weekend so I went over and had a look, the gearing is 6.4:1 and the housing is in cast iron so it looks much sturdier than the gearbox I bought earlier. The tag on the motor tells me that I will rev this baby 60 times more than it was spinning with the electrical motor attached, good thing my balls will be at least 10cm away from it when riding the bike... The best thing is that I bought two of them, so in case one breaks I have a spare one. It wouldn´t be fun to rely on one single gearbox when a spare could cost more than the entire bike build... I just had to arrange the power turbine wheel and the gearbox to see how it could look, seems to become pretty darn compact if I can make a decent mid-turbine section and exhaust housing. Cheers!
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Post by turbochris on Dec 15, 2011 10:03:44 GMT -5
How are you planning on lubing the gearbox? I think I'd try just using ATF instead of gear oil. How long will it see full load?.
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Post by Johansson on Dec 15, 2011 17:23:43 GMT -5
John has suggested earlier that a dry sump with oil jets pointed directly at the gear mesh is the only way to go when the revs are this high, a wet sump is useless since the centrifugal force keeps the gears dry no matter how submerged they are in oil. I finished the pitot tube for measuring the pressure in the jet pipe today, I also opened up the jet nozzle from 89mm to 90mm to compensate for this new restriction in the jet pipe. Cheers!
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Post by racket on Dec 15, 2011 18:23:51 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Can you use the motor armature as the freepower turbine's shaft once the windings are machined off ??
Nice looking redux :-)
You'll need a pressurised lube jet for the primary gearmesh , the secondary gears should be OK with splash feed ,
What horsepower/Kw is the electric motor , what input rpm ??
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Dec 16, 2011 1:33:54 GMT -5
Hi John,
I´ll rather make a completely new shaft for the power turbine than try to reuse this one, in the end it will be much easier and I won´t have to machine away the windings.
Mail sent to the manifacturer about the kW rating.
Cheers!
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Post by Johansson on Dec 16, 2011 12:54:03 GMT -5
A bit of a setback regarding the gearbox, I talked to a local company that overhauls electrical motors and gearboxes and asked him about the sign on the motor. He told me that this particular motor has two sets of windings and is only rated at 1.1kW at 2900rpm, the motor torque into the gearbox is a whimpy 10Nm. It looks much more powerful than that but that it because of the double windings. There is no way this gearbox will survive 50Nm of torque at 30.000rpm from the power turbine, but one idea would be to settle for lower PT revs initially and sort the bike out with, lets say, 100hp instead of 200. It would still prove to be an interesting ride and during the shakedown period I will have plenty of time to source a gearbox suited for higher revs, what do you think John?
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Post by racket on Dec 16, 2011 17:53:22 GMT -5
Hi Anders
With the pressure jet lube , it needs to have sufficient "force" to overcome the air being "pumped" out of the high speed gear meshing , your engine lube system pressure should be sufficient to do that .
A "new" shaft will be easier if the pinion gear mounting is easily accomplished .
If you want to reduce torque going into your gearbox whilst still maintaining reasonable horsepower , you'll need to still use maximum rpm , any reduction in rpm will require more torque to produce that given horsepower ..............100 hp at 30,000 rpm = 17.5 ft lbs of torque ,whereas 100 hp at 20,000 rpm will require 26.2 ft lbs, so you'll need to increase your redux ratio between output sprocket and back wheel sprocket , like I had to do with my first turbine bike to bring potential road speed for a given limited horsepower into a match with max freepower rpm , we need to run the turbine wheel as fast as is safely possible to maximise mean blade speed which in turn maximise potential horsepower output as turbine wheel power production is only a product of blade speed and gas deflection .
Potential gearboxes for our needs are very limited , thats why we ended up making our own , which isn't as big a problem as one would imagine , probably easier than trying to modify an unsuitable ready made gearbox .
Because you want to run an axially aligned freepower and a rear chain , theres the need for bevel gears somewhere in the drive train , and because the freepower turbine we use has to rotate in a certain direction , this will dictate which side of the bike the chain has to be on depending upon the number of gear stages/types in the redux. .....................bevel gears will also increase losses in the drive train compared to a couple of "ordinary" gears .
We also need to consider trying to balance axial gas loadings on the freepower wheel with axial gearmesh forces to help the freepower bearings survive , if both forces are in the same direction the bearings will have a hard time of it , whereas if they can be balanced by having a helical pinion gear with the correct rotation cut and angle on the gear , then the thrust loadings will be minimal .
Lots to consider :-)
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Dec 17, 2011 9:30:36 GMT -5
I got a phonecall from a friend who has a friend who knows a guy that manifactures custom gearboxes for rallycross cars, I will contact him and hear if he can build a gearbox for me and what it would cost.
If so I can get it made with an integrated angle gear so I won´t need to add one after the gearbox, but I won´t give it too much thought until I know what kind of money we are talking about. Much more than 2000 euro and I think I will pass...
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