Deleted
Joined: January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2013 15:05:42 GMT -5
very nice work mate, you could use a plate heat exchange unit..... can get my hands on one for you for little money
or ebay example 230652903538
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Post by Johansson on Mar 22, 2013 15:16:05 GMT -5
Hey Andy, that is a compact heat exchanger for sure. Any idea how much pressure it can withstand?
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Deleted
Joined: January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2013 15:26:54 GMT -5
not sure about that one.... but mate does have one that can take 100bar if i remember, think they all good for 10bar but you could always suck oil and kero through it..... one of the guys is trying it over here. did see one with hose tales on ebay 261186471677 this has 50bar rating
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Post by Johansson on Mar 22, 2013 15:30:02 GMT -5
That sounds interesting!
I´ll do some rearranging of the tanks and pumps this weekend to find out how much space there is left, a report will come in a day or two.
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Post by Johansson on Mar 23, 2013 18:26:04 GMT -5
I´ve done some thinking about how to fit some of the parts, the air box became a good mounting point for the scavange pumps, oil regulator and oil filter. The scavange pumps are level to the outlet ports on the engine which should be good for flow, I don´t think they would like to suck the frothy oil from a height. The oil regulator got itself a set of holes so it could be fitted to the air box as well. Ready to be fitted! A snug fit on the air box side, as long as the parts don´t stick out further than my knees I am satisfied. Not even the oil filter reaches further out than my knee even though it might look so. I will skip the belly fairing and make some transition to the tank sides instead, the ground clearance would be terrible if I would fit a fairing underneath the tanks and the oil tank will be chilled by the passing air if it is subjected to it. Another angle where the gound clearance is better seen. Before I called it a night I made a crude air deflector from cardboard, I am not sure if I should add sides to it so all air is sucked from the front or not. I might starve the engine of air at low speeds that way. Regarding the oil cooler I will most likely add a small air cooler in front of the air box, the fuel/oil cooler sounds very neat but in case it springs a leak at race day I am f*cked so I will try to keep everything as servicable as possible. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by racket on Mar 23, 2013 19:59:24 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Heating the incoming air with the oil cooler will reduce your engines output , perhaps just having the cooler mounted to the airbox side with its cooling air coming from frontal flow once the machine is underway . it does take a while for the oil to warm up to operating temperature of ~80 deg C , ~2minutes for the 10/98 without an oilcooler and ~7 litres of oil in the system , this would be about your normal pre race time , so you'll only be needing the cooler once you're mobile .
I'd be putting sides on your airbox inlet .................the coldest possible and highest pressure ram air is the first priority , don't worry about your low speed/idling conditions , she'll suck all the air she'll need :-)
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Mar 24, 2013 3:18:16 GMT -5
Hi John, I didn´t mean to put the cooler in the air flow into the engine but between the air box and front wheel at the same height as the front axle, the engine intake air is holy and nothing to heat up with some stupid oil cooler. Good to hear that you think the engine will get enough air with sides welded to the intake duct, I will add a radius to the intake front wall as well. With 4dm2 intake area on the front fairing the air box will get a theoretical 2.2m3/s of ram air at 200km/h which is roughly twice what the engine consumes, at 300km/h it is three times the mass flow. It would be interesting to know what this would do to the engine performance. Cheers! /Anders
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wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Mar 24, 2013 9:16:38 GMT -5
Anders, you may need to add "vortex generators" to the intake of your inlet. It's a bit counter intuitive, but if you have problems with actually getting the air to go into that box properly, that is your fix
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Post by Johansson on Mar 24, 2013 9:54:15 GMT -5
Interesting idea, I will add a pressure sensor to the bottom of the air box to see if I get enough air in there. If not I will have to come up with something and this might be worth a try.
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wolfdragon
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 287
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Post by wolfdragon on Mar 24, 2013 14:15:28 GMT -5
actually, its easier than needing a pressure sensor, the best instruments are tufts of string
what you don't want to see is flow detached from the walls of your intake, which will be revealed by the strings flapping all over the place instead of laying flat and pointing inward
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Post by Johansson on Mar 24, 2013 15:38:57 GMT -5
It will be difficult to see this while driving the bike unfortunately. No need to dig ourselves in on this at this point, once I have run the bike and collected some data it might be worth the effort to check out the intake aerodynamics.
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Post by Johansson on Mar 25, 2013 18:08:04 GMT -5
Time to get some clothes on my darling, she is freezing! Last night I wrote down everything I have to do on the bike before I can take it apart to weld up the frame, the list became quite long and the first thing on it was to fit the front fender and fairings. Without them firmly fitted I cannot finish the air intake, fit any hoses or much else for that matter. I made some aluminum brackets for the fender and hung it in place, the reason for the sad look is because the fender was made to fit all kinds of fork angles so there is plenty of material to be removed. This looks better, one of the rules in the class APS/Ω is that the front fender cannot hide more than 180° of the circumference of the wheel and that the front of the fender cannot in any spot be lower than the front wheel axle. Here is the bike with the fender cut, personally I think the bike looks much better without a fender at all but then I won´t even make it out of the pits before the engine is filled with salt... The last thing I did tonight was to modify the fairings so they would fit the rear of the fender, they will be properly strenghtened with aluminum brackets later to withstand the force from the air. Everyone who has lifted their head on a bike in 300km/h know what I am talking about... Cheers! /Anders
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sven
Veteran Member
Joined: February 2012
Posts: 102
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Post by sven on Mar 26, 2013 11:39:31 GMT -5
Nice, class APS/Ω is only electric bikes or you can ride all kind of engines? I like hows your bike looks already, cant wait to see her spooling up and run Sven
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Post by Johansson on Mar 26, 2013 12:06:44 GMT -5
Thanks! The omega engine class is for elecric, steam and turbine engines.
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Post by Johansson on Mar 27, 2013 18:33:05 GMT -5
Tonight I started making the brackets for the fairings, I had to get something done today so I won´t have to be in the workshop all easter. I strengthened the fairing nose with riveted aluminum and made chromemoly brackets which were then welded to the steering head. I need several more brackets to hold everything in place but at least the fairings stays in place without zip ties now. The thing that took the longest was to find the right position for the fairings before I made the brackets, compared to the earlier pictures the fairings sit lower and further forward which makes the front fender look a bit less gigantic. The next step will be to cut down the sides of the fairings a little and strenghten them properly before making brackets for them. I managed to get three hours in the workshop before my feancee called and told me that our youngest daugher has got stomach flue, this will probably be one interesting easter... Cheers! /Anders
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