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Post by pitciblackscotland on Mar 27, 2013 20:35:12 GMT -5
Hi Anders, The bike is looking awesome. I personally like bikes with fairings on them. LOL looks like you have limited space in your workshop ;D. Happy Easter, keep up the good work. Cheers, Mark
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Post by Johansson on Mar 28, 2013 2:15:42 GMT -5
Hi Mark, I am indeed lacking some floor space right now, the Hayabusa is up for sale just to get some more room and a bit of funding for the bike build. In a month or so I will have to squeeze an Isotov helicopter engine in there as well and my brother is soon dropping off his motorcycle for a complete rebuild so I will probably have to crawl over things to get around. Luckily summer is on its way so I can move some stuff to the outside shed. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by pitciblackscotland on Mar 29, 2013 1:23:27 GMT -5
Hi Anders, A Isotov helicopter engine ;D is that going to be another project ?? Cheers, Mark.
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Post by Johansson on Mar 29, 2013 1:52:02 GMT -5
No, a friend is building a turbine powered land speed veteran tractor (!) and he has asked me to get the engine sorted out for him.
There is no starting panel as the engine is replaced from a Norwegian ambulance helicopter so I will have to do some research to figure out how it works. I´ve found all manuals for it so hopefully it shouldn´t take long to do.
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Post by turbochris on Mar 31, 2013 9:41:25 GMT -5
No, a friend is building a turbine powered land speed veteran tractor I'm not even sure what that is but the sound of it makes me really really sad i don't live near you guys
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Post by Johansson on Apr 3, 2013 14:37:14 GMT -5
I am not sure either. Last night I got some random bits and pieces done, and today I´ve talked with a local metal working shop named Fixit and they will cut splines on the gearbox output shaft so the front sprocket for the chain drive can be fitted to it. With the shaft taken out of the gearbox I can start planning how to make the oil jets who will inject oil into the gear mesh and ball bearings, a large diameter return line will also be fitted to the bottom of the gearbox so the oil can return to the tank. I have also started on some more struts for the front fairing, the fairing quality is kind of lousy so I need to force it into shape with the struts. I have also made a battery mockup with the same dimensions as the Deka Dominator 51Ah battery I will get for the bike, it is a special total loss battery which is much more suited for this than a normal starter battery that leaves massive cranking amps but loses voltage much faster. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by Johansson on Apr 5, 2013 16:21:24 GMT -5
With the kids asleep and the feancee out on a party I had the evening for myself, wanking is boring so I headed out to the workshop instead. I got a package with a bunch of nice small aluminum weld lids for the fuel and oil tanks today, I can´t remember how I ever got anything done before I discovered Ebay... A couple of hours more on the brackets for the fairings, now they stay in place enough so I can strenghten the sides and make brackets there as well. I have decided to skip the PWM controller and use my old trusty needle valve I made for my turbine pocketbike years ago, a very simple design that regulates the fuel pressure by choking the internal fuel return flow. This is exactly in line with my goal to have the bike as field repairable as possible, if it starts to leak or jam I only have to fit new needle seals and then it is as new again. No damn PWM controller that burns out in the middle of nowhere, been there done that with the jet kick... After testing different needle profiles I found one that produced a decent flow curve. I even made a test rig for it, hard facts tends to beat guessing sometimes. Right now is it under a thick layer of dust in my friends barn, I will go get it this weekend and clean it up some. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by pitciblackscotland on Apr 5, 2013 17:15:09 GMT -5
Hi Anders, Hehehehe, yes it's best to go out to your workshop and concentrate on the bike project just until your feancee gets home ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D. Yes E BAY is the only place to shop for parts that we can use for our projects, i don't know how i would go without e bay. Cheers, Mark.
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Post by racket on Apr 5, 2013 17:42:11 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Yeh ,.... "KISS" is the way to go :-) ......................replacing the shaft's cup seal is a simple job
Heh Heh, ......great minds ( and small ones) must think alike , you controller is similar to the one I made up for FM-1 back in ~2006 but never used until I fitted it to the GT6041 kart , it worked a treat , I took inspiration from a bike carby when designing it up .
The one "problem??" I experienced was at full throttle with the needle virtually closing off the "dump" oriface , if it was adjusted a tad too far the needle stuck in the oriface giving me full throttle fuel flow even when I backed off the power , I ended up fitting an extra spring under the needle to increase the forces wanting to pull/push the needle back out ,...... can't have too many return springs on a throttle :-)
Maybe if I'd had a much larger flow pump on the engine I wouldn't have needed to close the oriface off as much....................but its something to look out for.
I also incorperated a couple of fuel pressure ports in my controller housing , one for delivery pressure from the pump and the other for the pressure going to the quick shutoff ball valve on its way to the engine, I found them handy when tuning the engine, and for subsequent spoolups where if I had the correct pressure differences when the fuel pump was switched on I knew she'd get up to idle without problems.
Things are getting close if you're thinking about throttles :-)
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Apr 6, 2013 16:17:12 GMT -5
Hi Anders, Hehehehe, yes it's best to go out to your workshop and concentrate on the bike project just until your feancee gets home ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D. Yes E BAY is the only place to shop for parts that we can use for our projects, i don't know how i would go without e bay. Cheers, Mark. I had all night for myself since she had planned to sleep over at a friends place, picked her up today and spent a couple of hours with the kids waiting for her outside some shops while she renewed the spring clothing. I thought for a millisecond that I should ask why she would spend that much money on clothes since she could buy a Bosch 044 fuel pump for me instead, but nahh I didn´t want to spoil the moment for her. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by Johansson on Apr 6, 2013 16:31:16 GMT -5
Hi Anders Yeh ,.... "KISS" is the way to go :-) ......................replacing the shaft's cup seal is a simple job Heh Heh, ......great minds ( and small ones) must think alike , you controller is similar to the one I made up for FM-1 back in ~2006 but never used until I fitted it to the GT6041 kart , it worked a treat , I took inspiration from a bike carby when designing it up . The one "problem??" I experienced was at full throttle with the needle virtually closing off the "dump" oriface , if it was adjusted a tad too far the needle stuck in the oriface giving me full throttle fuel flow even when I backed off the power , I ended up fitting an extra spring under the needle to increase the forces wanting to pull/push the needle back out ,...... can't have too many return springs on a throttle :-) Maybe if I'd had a much larger flow pump on the engine I wouldn't have needed to close the oriface off as much....................but its something to look out for. I also incorperated a couple of fuel pressure ports in my controller housing , one for delivery pressure from the pump and the other for the pressure going to the quick shutoff ball valve on its way to the engine, I found them handy when tuning the engine, and for subsequent spoolups where if I had the correct pressure differences when the fuel pump was switched on I knew she'd get up to idle without problems. Things are getting close if you're thinking about throttles :-) Cheers John Hi John, Good pointer about the throttle needle getting stuck, I will see to that the fuel pump has enough capacity to feed the engine without needing to close off the return line completely. As you might remember I bought the panel rev counter that was specially designed for DIY turbines, it has relay switches in it and lots of other useful features. I think I will skip the plan to use it as a gas producer tacho and use it to measure the revs on the gearbox output shaft instead, here is why: If I get a tire slip there is a real risk that the wheel spin gets out of control very fast if I don´t back off the throttle or apply the rear brake, my idea is to measure the output shaft revs and set 30.000rpm (for example) as the trigger point for one of the relay switches. The relay will be coupled to the fuel pump so as soon as the revs gets too high the fuel is shut off and the engine stops. It will also be a very useful tool to measure tire slip at high speeds, some slip is inevitable so together with the GPS logger I got from my friends in 30 year present it will be possible to find out exactly how much slip there is. I can also use it to get an idea of how fast I am going during the run. Whatcha think guys? Cheers! /Anders
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Post by turbochris on Apr 7, 2013 8:03:09 GMT -5
field serviceable..... that's the way to go. I build my projects like carnival rides. The tach idea is pretty cool, we were using an ignition on our race car that had a slew rate curve. if the engine rpm started to outrun this curve it would take timing out of the motor to keep it from spinning the back tires. This car had slippage in the driveline muck like our free turbines aka a torque converter. We input wheel rpm into the ignition controller instead of engine rpm. By the time the engine got away the rear wheels were smoking already, after changing to the wheel rpm the controller was able to see the wheel slip right away and manage it before it got away. I think you're on the right track. How many relayws do you have? maybe rear wheel overspeed can idle the motor instead of shut it off?
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Post by Johansson on Apr 9, 2013 2:58:36 GMT -5
Interesting stuff Chris! With the manual fuel control I won´t be able to drop down to idle, and I don´t think it would work anyway since the high P2 will stop any fuel from coming through if I suddenly drop down to idle fuel pressure resulting in a flame out. I´ve finished the bracket manufacturing for now, the fairings are firmly fixed and will be even more so later when I have made the transition pieces down to the aluminum tanks. I adjusted the clearance between fender and fairing so it is as tight as possible without them touching while turning or braking hard. An extra high windscreen is ordered from England specially made for these kind of fairings so as soon as it arrives I will see if I can tuck myself in completely behind the fairings. After that I started building a new throttle valve with an integrated pressure release valve for extra safety against over revs, the old one was a bit bulky and lacked the safety valve so I figured it was best to make one that fits the bike. I didn´t take much photos but here I am milling out the slot for the throttle arm. Drilled, tapped and soon countersunk for an M6 insex bolt. I got this far last night before it was time to go to bed, 30 minutes past midnight. It´s a good thing that I don´t need very much sleep, frees up many extra workshop hours each week! Cheers! /Anders
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Post by Johansson on Apr 10, 2013 17:46:49 GMT -5
Tonight I continued working on the thottle regulator, I had big plans to draw everything up very professionally in a CAD program instead of the ususal figuring out the design while I build with drawings made on some greasy cardboard piece. It didn´t work out... Testing the fit of the needle valve, a snug fit. Threading the bolt circle that will hold the needle valve O-ring cover in place. Here I am about to drill the seat for the fuel pressure safety valve, a spring loaded 10mm steel ball will be set to open slightly above the full throttle fuel pressure to make sure I can´t over fuel the engine. Not very easy for you to follow all the drilling and milling so I made some kind of explanation how the channels are routed. The fuel enters from the pump and leaves to the injectors from the lower fuel line, and the upper line is the bleed return line to the tank that both the throttle needle valve and the safety valve dumps fuel into. The needle valve regulates the fuel flow through the bleed line thus regulating the fuel pressure to the engine. Simple and bullet proof. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by racket on Apr 10, 2013 23:53:44 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Perfect :-)
Cheers John
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