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Post by pitciblackscotland on Feb 7, 2017 18:38:48 GMT -5
Thanks Brett, Ah! yes insurance paper work, would you need a permit as well  I may have to stick to back yard runs  Yep the good old days are gone better make the most of it  Cheers, Mark. |
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Post by smithy1 on Feb 8, 2017 13:54:48 GMT -5
Thanks Brett, Ah! yes insurance paper work, would you need a permit as well I may have to stick to back yard runs Yep the good old days are gone better make the most of it Cheers, Mark. Don't know about a "permit" as such, I've not had to have one. Most of the car shows I do are ok....they usually have their own permit & P/L insurance for the venue, however, I still have to show and/or provide my own independent $10mil P/L insurance to cover myself and it has to have my particular machines listed and what I'm doing etc...it's not expensive though...~$160/yr for peace of mind. It's the bigger shows which are a pain, they want "their" major sponsor company/show/venue listed separately on "my" P/L certificate and it costs time and money to amend my cert and then to put it back to normal afterwards....I forgot to reverse it once and the previous venue was still listed on my cert for a different show/venue, needless to say, they rejected it...I need a secretary..! Cheers, Smithy. |
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 5, 2017 20:32:51 GMT -5
John said in the "combustion chamber" thread:
Hi Smithy
The flametube in my TV84 engine, 3.5" inducer 1.8 lbs/sec, worked OK , heres a couple of scanned photos ( pre digital camera days :-; )
It was 140 mm dia and ~1/3rd cu ft capacity , swirl vanes ( 12 of with 9 X 5 mm flow areas) surrounding simplex spray nozzle , 50 -750 psi fuel pressure , flametube domed cap had 36 X 3 mm holes
Cheers
John
Hi John,
Although the 6041 is running reasonably well in the upper P2 range, it's not too healthy down low, probably due to poor, unstable or incomplete combustion in the primary zone. I'm going to bite the bullet and model a flame tube off your old one from your above post....also going to source a "SS" semi-solid 80* cone furnace fuel nozzle to go with it...something around the 17-19us-gph (@100psi) or so should be the go. I have plenty of fuel pressure available so that won't be a problem, just need to sort out the low P2 combustion issues.
I have a C30 flame tube which I could steal the swirl vanes from, then using your idea of the domed primary. Can't see it being too much of an issue.
Cheers,
Smithy.
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Post by racket on Jun 6, 2017 0:46:45 GMT -5
Hi Smithy
I've been having a look through my TV84 "journal ??" and it looks like I started off using a 6 GPH 30 degree semi solid nozzle ...........LOL, about the only nozzle available at that time , took ages to track down a supplier , I'd have prefered a hollow cone variety but they weren't available that big and the supplier had none anyway :-(
The fact that it was a 30 degree nozzle meant I probably displaced the Primary Holes a bit further down the flametube than if I'd been able to source a 60 degree, or larger, angled nozzle .
As development progressed, by 1999 I'd gone to a 7.5 GPH 30 degree SS nozzle , but that still wasn't "right" .
I then started playing around with nozzles and modified their inside passageways to produce a hollow cone 9 GPH one in 60 degrees .
If you go with a simplex nozzle you'll be needing at least 50 psi at idle to get a reasonable atomisation , so full power could be up ~750psi .
An 80 degree or greater nozzle would be OK for your large dia flametube so as not to lose too much flametube length whilst the fuel is spreading out in its cone .
Cheers
John
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 6, 2017 18:36:51 GMT -5
Hi Smithy I've been having a look through my TV84 "journal ??" and it looks like I started off using a 6 GPH 30 degree semi solid nozzle ...........LOL, about the only nozzle available at that time , took ages to track down a supplier , I'd have prefered a hollow cone variety but they weren't available that big and the supplier had none anyway :-( The fact that it was a 30 degree nozzle meant I probably displaced the Primary Holes a bit further down the flametube than if I'd been able to source a 60 degree, or larger, angled nozzle . As development progressed, by 1999 I'd gone to a 7.5 GPH 30 degree SS nozzle , but that still wasn't "right" . I then started playing around with nozzles and modified their inside passageways to produce a hollow cone 9 GPH one in 60 degrees . If you go with a simplex nozzle you'll be needing at least 50 psi at idle to get a reasonable atomisation , so full power could be up ~750psi . An 80 degree or greater nozzle would be OK for your large dia flametube so as not to lose too much flametube length whilst the fuel is spreading out in its cone . Cheers John Excellent info, thank you John... Supplying 750 psi isn't an issue, my pump and plumbing is good for over 3000psi, not sure about your old fuel control though?? Might need to make something a tad more robust.?? It's been working fine and no leaks thus far...even at ~550psi.. Just need to figure out which flow rate nozzle to go with...I need ~240-250pph at maximum P2 of ~40psi...which equates to ~40US gph... but my low end/idle only needs ~55-60pph or ~9-10US gph....finding a "Simplex" fuel nozzle which can handle this range whilst giving a nice atomization isn't going to be easy, I wonder if I can setup a "flow divider" to go from a low flow nozzle to a high flow nozzle...or Primary to Secondary if you like?? I could then have a pair of "side-by-side" nozzles which overlap their spray pattern slightly for a short amount of time during acceleration. Cheers, Smithy. |
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Post by racket on Jun 6, 2017 19:28:25 GMT -5
Hi Smithy I'd be inclined to look at the Variflo nozzle www.delavaninc.com/pdf/variflo_catalog.pdf I've a friend who uses these successfully in an industrial DIY gas turbine scenario with diesel fuel Because of the GT6041 flametube diameter and the need for good idling atomisation these would be my choice .................LOL, if only they were available here in Oz 25 years ago Cheers John |
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 6, 2017 20:21:28 GMT -5
Hi Smithy I'd be inclined to look at the Variflo nozzle www.delavaninc.com/pdf/variflo_catalog.pdf I've a friend who uses these successfully in an industrial DIY gas turbine scenario with diesel fuel Because of the GT6041 flametube diameter and the need for good idling atomisation these would be my choice .................LOL, if only they were available here in Oz 25 years ago Cheers John Thanks for the link John...I'll have a good look. Need to do my homework on this to make sure I get it right. BTW...I'll be up Newcastle way later this year for a show at the Newcastle Kart track, they've invited me back for a second time...will let you know the details/dates etc when I know for sure. Cheers, Smithy. |
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Post by racket on Jun 6, 2017 21:09:58 GMT -5
Hi Smithy
Excellent :-)
My youngest son recently moved near Newie, might combine a trip .
Cheers
John
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 6, 2017 21:35:11 GMT -5
Hi John,
I've had a peruse through the link you've supplied....very interesting indeed....Using a the by-pass "variflow" type system I can easily get the flow range needed using a single 18 or 20gph variflow nozzle, they go up in flow with the square of the inlet pressure rise....and can go down to the required ~9-10gph required at idle with the use of the by-pass facility and their 5:1 "turndown" ratio.
Cheers,
Smithy.
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sub22b
Member
Joined: June 2016
Posts: 47 
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Post by sub22b on Jun 18, 2017 3:31:31 GMT -5
Hi guys i was wondering if the kart still has the solid live rear axle or if it has been cut to help with turning. And have you added any weight to the front end. As the project i have started doesnt want to turn very easily when we push it around.
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Post by racket on Jun 18, 2017 3:49:43 GMT -5
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sub22b
Member
Joined: June 2016
Posts: 47
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Post by sub22b on Jun 18, 2017 3:55:40 GMT -5
Yea i also have alot of weight over the rear of the kart and only a battery up front. How does the gt6041 kart turn with a solid axle?
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Post by pitciblackscotland on Jun 18, 2017 4:31:28 GMT -5
Hi guys i was wondering if the kart still has the solid live rear axle or if it has been cut to help with turning. And have you added any weight to the front end. As the project i have started doesnt want to turn very easily when we push it around. I did the same thing on my jet mower project, the big T30 turbo weight in at 47 kgs. Have a look at my thread will give you a idea, it made a big improvement in turning still need to add some weight in the front i think the AB tank will take care of that. Cheers, Mark. jetandturbineowners.proboards.com/thread/600/turbine-rover-mower-project?page=6 |
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Post by enginewhisperer on Jun 18, 2017 4:34:00 GMT -5
I thought Smithy cut the axle on the 6041 kart?
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 18, 2017 14:36:51 GMT -5
Hi guys i was wondering if the kart still has the solid live rear axle or if it has been cut to help with turning. And have you added any weight to the front end. As the project i have started doesnt want to turn very easily when we push it around. Indeed the 6041 Kart was near impossible to turn with the solid rear axle...I've done as Andrew, (engine whisperer) has mentioned, cut the axle...It now has four rear axle bearings, obviously one at each end and a "twin" setup in the middle, the axle is cut between the two middle bearings....much easier to turn and moving it around in my shed now is not a major ball-ache..!  Originally John had a normal sized 12v car battery up front to supply all the "electrical gubbins"...but I've "changed" a few things now and have fitted two 4 cell (14.8v nominal in parallel), 16,000mah Li-Po batteries to supply all of the leccy bits apart from my main fuel pump, this setup is good for several engine starts as I do quite a few car shows and up to ~6-7 engine runs per show. I also have a single 6 cell (22.2v nominal) 10,000mah Li-Po battery to run my main fuel pump, it's a 36v 800watt motor driving the pump but the rpm is a tad high on 36v so a reduction to 22.2v sees it in the "happy" zone, the system works very well thus far and I've had no dramas with it. I always carry a spare set of batteries and a Li-Po charger with me just in case...rotating the batteries between shows helps spread the load...although they don't work too hard, max current draw is only ~30-35amps, I have a 40amp fused setup and have not blown the fuse yet. The batteries are good for well over 150amps, so plenty of wiggle room. I also use a Rolls-Royce C20B igniter for gas starts and a diesel glow plug for "gasless" starts, I was quite surprised to see it only pulls ~10-12amps. Cheers, Smithy. |
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I may have to stick to back yard runs 
Yep the good old days are gone better make the most of it 
