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Post by Johansson on Mar 20, 2015 16:36:35 GMT -5
That is a great offer Ian, I can admit that the idea has crossed my mind but I´ll wait until the engine is running before I make up my mind. I´ll send you a PM in that case so I can get the adresses to Mark and Colin.
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Post by Johansson on Mar 22, 2015 2:08:01 GMT -5
My friends have donated a 12V ignitor for the project, a transistor was broken so they had to open it up and repair it. Afterwards they just had to play with it a little, impressive amount of energy in the sparks!
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Post by pitciblackscotland on Mar 22, 2015 14:32:21 GMT -5
Hi Anders, Wow that's got some kick!!! good one.
Cheers, Mark.
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Post by racket on Mar 22, 2015 16:38:59 GMT -5
Hi Anders
OUCH , that would give you a sting , probably kill you :-(
Great for firing up "liquid" kero
Cheers John
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Post by Johansson on Mar 22, 2015 17:13:43 GMT -5
Lars-E dropped by an hour ago with the ignitor in a new fancy box, we tried it with the Viper plugs and it worked perfectly on 12V. The ignitor is designed for 24V so it will spark even faster connected to the Viper battery bank. I´ve also made the blinding plates for the thermocouple holes I won´t use. There are some things I am a bit unsure about on the engine, this bleed air elbow for instance. As far as I can understand I will need to remove it and close the hole off since it will be venting compressor discharge air if open, right? Another thing is the fuel and oil drains located all over the engine, will I need to block these off or are they normally closed somehow? I don´t want kero spraying everywhere during the first start... Is there anyone who knows where to get an electric connection for the engine so I can make a cable to connect the primer solenoid switch, oil and fuel pressure warning lights etc? Cheers! /Anders
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Deleted
Joined: January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2015 18:12:07 GMT -5
There is a member on the group JetRic ( Richard ) he posted on your thread other day about ignition box.... He's had a few vipers, and he is one of the best in the uk with commercial engines... you mite want to pm him
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Post by Johansson on Mar 23, 2015 1:21:55 GMT -5
Good idea, I´ll try to compose some sensible questions and send him a PM.
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Post by Johansson on Apr 20, 2015 15:40:25 GMT -5
After a PM from "viper" with some very useful information about the mods I need to do I got a bit further on the engine today, I started removing all of the useless stuff like the deicing valve, cable harness and bleed valve control mechanism. I need to blank the holes off for obvious reasons, I´ve made two of the blanking plates today in stainless steel and I have a couple more to make. I´ve also started to make a dashboard with the throttle levers, gauges and buttons. To make the levers I had to build a ball turning jig for the lathe which took me almost a day to make. My friend Lars-E has been helping me out with the key slot in the starter motor coupling, I´ll get the parts back next time he is in town. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by Johansson on Apr 24, 2015 9:13:21 GMT -5
Getting there...
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Post by Johansson on Apr 28, 2015 14:22:03 GMT -5
Last night was one of those rare evenings when you get twice as much done as you had planned, not that much left to do on the Viper now! Here is a crappy pic of one of the drain plugs, it will double as the filler connection for the micro pump oil lines to the rear rotor bearings. Since I don´t have an original oil pressure gauge I made an adapter for a regular automotive oil pressure sensor. Then I welded the partially finished dashboard to the engine cradle and made the throttle linkages, works like a charm! Just to double check, when the engine levers are at their upper position they are OFF, right? There are no markings whatsoever or any mention of it in the manual. I ended up removing a decent pile of stuff from the engine. The progress so far, hopefully I will get the starter back from a friend who have cut the woodruff key slot for me this week. Cheers! /Anders
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Post by pitciblackscotland on Apr 28, 2015 17:58:25 GMT -5
Hi Anders, She looks a lot neater without all the pipes and stuff that you don't need Cheers, Mark.
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Post by Johansson on Apr 28, 2015 23:08:39 GMT -5
Sure does.
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metiz
Senior Member
Joined: April 2011
Posts: 297
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Post by metiz on Apr 29, 2015 5:03:13 GMT -5
What are you going to use this engine for, shits and giggles? 'cause that's a perfectly valid use, just wondering
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Post by Johansson on Apr 29, 2015 5:06:33 GMT -5
What are you going to use this engine for, shits and giggles? 'cause that's a perfectly valid use, just wondering I´ll get back to you on that one, I have an idea but I need to get the engine running before I decide anything.
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jetric
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2014
Posts: 132
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Post by jetric on Apr 30, 2015 4:02:01 GMT -5
Hi Anders, Why have you removed the pipework and the control unit from the air bleed valve on the compressor case as this is a very important unit and is required for running the engine!!! I can understand you removing the anti-ice valve and pipework as this is not required for ground running the engine but by removing the pipework and control unit for the compressor bleed valve the engine will only be able to be run at idle, this valve is an essential part of the compressor and is required in order to keep the flows correct through the varius compressor stages and to stop the compressor from surging/stalling, by disabling it through removing its control unit and pipework the valve will now be constantly open all the way through the rev range when it is supposed to close half way through the rev range, with this valve constantly open your EGT temps will exceed the top limit half way through the rev range and the compressor could surge!!!! Rich. Last night was one of those rare evenings when you get twice as much done as you had planned, not that much left to do on the Viper now! Here is a crappy pic of one of the drain plugs, it will double as the filler connection for the micro pump oil lines to the rear rotor bearings. Since I don´t have an original oil pressure gauge I made an adapter for a regular automotive oil pressure sensor. Then I welded the partially finished dashboard to the engine cradle and made the throttle linkages, works like a charm! Just to double check, when the engine levers are at their upper position they are OFF, right? There are no markings whatsoever or any mention of it in the manual. I ended up removing a decent pile of stuff from the engine. The progress so far, hopefully I will get the starter back from a friend who have cut the woodruff key slot for me this week. Cheers! /Anders
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