jamiep
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Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Mar 29, 2011 14:47:08 GMT -5
Cleaned up and painted the oil tank/pump mount. High temp paint with ceramic used for brake calipers. Nice silver flake. Jamie Attachments:
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jamiep
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Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Mar 29, 2011 14:51:13 GMT -5
I welded a 1/4 npt female/female elbow to the flametube cap. This allows me to screw in the propane line on the outside. For the fuel nozzle, I got a male/male extension and welded one end shut. I then drilled 4 holes that are about 3/32 in the sides... Jamie Attachments:
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jamiep
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Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Mar 29, 2011 14:55:04 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the fuel nozzle while drilling... I welded one end shut and drilled 4 opposing holes. Thoughts on rhyme or reason of hole number/size? I hooked up my propane to the back plate to test and it flames fine...just not sure how much is enough/not enough. Jamie Attachments:
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Post by racket on Mar 29, 2011 23:07:58 GMT -5
Hi Jamie
4 Holes seems OK for smaller units whereas with a larger flametube diameter it might need 8 holes to produce an even coverage of the flametube crossection .
Turbines use a lot of fuel , at full power with a jet nozzle and the engine running its max temps you'll be needing roughly the same weight of fuel per hour as there weight of airflow per minute,
ie, if a small engine flows 30 lbs/min -0.5 lbs/sec of air , then you'll need 30 lbs of fuel per hour - 0.5 lbs of fuel per minute .
Cheers
John
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jamiep
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Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Apr 7, 2011 11:46:50 GMT -5
Just pulled the frame out of my buddies bead blast cabinet. Also blasted the flame tube bottom and the combustion chamber. I will wheel through the car wash tonight and pressure wash them in preparation for paint this weekend. Rounding third base! I will start assembling everything in the next couple of weeks then get my last order of plumbing/electronics in. Ready to make noisy fire!  jamie |
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Post by Johansson on Apr 7, 2011 13:14:29 GMT -5
Keep up the good work!  |
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Post by ernie wrenn on Apr 8, 2011 8:35:00 GMT -5
Remember.........take pictures as you go and do not delete them as I did on some of the hearse build... make a dumb drive backup..
ernie
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jamiep
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Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Apr 11, 2011 8:57:08 GMT -5
I got all the pieces washed down and painted over the weekend. All the paint is high temp stuff. Once this all sits for a couple days, I can start final assembly and get the hoses and stuff figured out. Jamie Attachments:
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jamiep
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Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Apr 11, 2011 9:02:00 GMT -5
Closer look at the flametube and combustion tube. Painted with 2,000 degree header paint. Jamie Attachments:
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jamiep
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Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Apr 15, 2011 11:56:51 GMT -5
Started assembly yesterday. This is the oils system going together. Oil tank, radiator, guard. You can also see the manifold attached to the frame where all the hoses will sprout from. Jamie Attachments:
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jamiep
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Post by jamiep on Apr 15, 2011 11:58:15 GMT -5
Installed the combustion chamber. Also, the treadplate panel will hold the gauges. I really like how the silver pops on the red. My engine may or may not run, but it will be among the prettiest!  Jamie Attachments:
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Post by racket on Apr 15, 2011 18:40:32 GMT -5
Hi Jamie
Lookin' nice :-)
Cheers
John
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Post by turbochris on Apr 15, 2011 19:33:29 GMT -5
damn, I drove right through Nashville last night. Definitely Diesel on the A/B. You need to use my trick low pressure afterburner fuel setup. I get complete fuel vaporization with loads of fuel and only need about 20 psi fuel pressure. My setup keeps the fuel in the center of the AB which seems to help keep the AB housing cool. I used a dump/step type afterburner on propane before and it sucked. Ran hot as hell and didn't make that much power. No sexy smell whatsoever. People here just don't let their friends run propane in the AB. Put an .060 to .090 jet right behind the turbine wheel so its facing the wheel about 1/8 inch away. When the raw fuel hits the center of the turbine wheel, it's just not possible to remain liquid anymore. Put a medium sized anchor ring with a cone in the center. Check this out- groups.yahoo.com/group/DIYGasTurbines/photos/album/1946474314/pic/listThis was a dump afterburner that was converted to use anchor rings instead of the step in diameter to anchor the flame. Look at the way the anchor ring and cone are set up. This AB works awesome and only needs 20 psi fuel pressure. Don't make the anchor ring too big, it will try to anchor the flame closer to the walls. This afterburner design is Mike Early approved |
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jamiep
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Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Apr 18, 2011 8:43:07 GMT -5
John - thanks! Chris - next time you come through nashville, look me up! as for the afterburner design, do you suggest the exhaust tube being the same diameter all the way to the end and then slightly tapered? or do you have a step up in there? Also, when you mention the .060 or .090 jets, where do you get those? Do you have to use the anchor ring or can you just use the cone? |
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Post by turbochris on Apr 18, 2011 17:08:15 GMT -5
I make the jets out of steel pipe plugs with 1/8th npt male threads. I would set it up as close as possible to the design I have. I don't think it needs the step as it has the anchor rings but this AB worked really really well. I'd hate to tell you to leave the step out and find it was helping. I don't see how it would hurt to leave the step in there, it would be easier than making a cone to transition from the tube coming from the turbine to the AB housing anyway.
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