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Post by racket on Oct 30, 2013 21:56:29 GMT -5
Hi Jamie It might be a good idea to read this www.cikfia.com/fileadmin/content/History/2007/05-02-2007(2).pdf , it appears that theres plenty of >15,000 rpm centrif clutches available to save you the problem of constructing a jack shaft , try and keep things as simple as possible , theres not much room on a kart for both a DIY gas producer and a freepower stage . If you use a jackshaft , the rpm will be lower but the torque going through the clutch will be increased by the reduction ratio going to the jackshaft , you'll need to have a much larger and heavier clutch than if its on the freepower shaft............our freepowers already have a "fat" power curve with their torque multiplying effect , so any clutch will need to have good torque "processing" capability,........... the faster you can run the centrif clutch the better it'll handle the torque . Cheers John
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jamiep
Veteran Member
Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Oct 31, 2013 9:36:47 GMT -5
Ok...understood on the torque multiplication. As for the link, sounds like some proposed talk of engine homog. but no clutch talk or mentions...
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Post by racket on Oct 31, 2013 16:54:58 GMT -5
Hi Jamie
Pages 11 14 and 15 mention centrif clutch.
The "old" 100cc engines were going 20,000 rpm..................it would pay to contact some of the suppliers to get first hand advice,..........perhaps even a large kart club to talk to one of their more senior members/scrutineers
Cheers John
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jamiep
Veteran Member
Joined: November 2010
Posts: 102
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Post by jamiep on Dec 3, 2013 11:13:34 GMT -5
FINALLY got the damn VT50 turbo taken apart...the thing was completely fused together from carbon/rust/heat/time. Had to destroy the center cartridge to get it apart.
Looks like my turbine wheel and shaft are one piece...was yours racket? About to start designing a bearing carrier/mounting plate to mate to the turbine housing. jamie
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Post by racket on Dec 3, 2013 14:31:40 GMT -5
Hi Jamie
Yep , turb wheel and shaft are one piece
Cheers John
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Post by pictsidhe on Jul 20, 2014 12:42:22 GMT -5
Did you fix the surging? If it's a compressor/turbine mismatch and not something fixable by redoing pipe/combustor bits, you could try prewhirl for the compressor inlet. Some vanes to get the air spinning the same way as the wheel will move surge to lower flow. Not a perfect solution, but it's easier and cheaper than changing the compressor or turbine. Have a read of this paper: docs.lib.purdue.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2367&context=icec
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