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Post by Johansson on Jan 28, 2020 17:47:23 GMT -5
Hi Anders That'll stop the big bits ..............certainly looks "open" enough for flow ...........getting closer :-) Cheers John Yup, it will keep a losened cable or nut from getting into the engine. Sand and stuff will go through but I have to live with that. I will test the preheat tomorrow and perhaps do a cold test spin with full oil pressure just to confirm that nothing rubs or seems out of order. Cheers and good night! /Anders |
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Post by azwood on Jan 28, 2020 18:01:17 GMT -5
Looks great I had a loose silicone hose get sucked into my intake not long ago it was only the tip of a tiny signal line and it's soft stuff but it suprised me it wasn't that close to the intake no damages I was lucky
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Post by Johansson on Jan 29, 2020 2:35:32 GMT -5
Looks great I had a loose silicone hose get sucked into my intake not long ago it was only the tip of a tiny signal line and it's soft stuff but it suprised me it wasn't that close to the intake no damages I was lucky Not much is needed to wreck a turbine engine, I hope this will keep mine healthy. When racing the bike gravel and stuff from the track is thrown up inside the fairings from the front tyre so with an open inducer it wouldnt take long before I start to see damage to the compressor. |
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Post by Johansson on Jan 29, 2020 6:12:33 GMT -5
Intake screen trimmed to the right length and securely mounted to the bellmouth rim.  The downside with this is that now the chassis mounted preheat fan won´t push enough air through the engine for the propane to ignite and burn, so I might have to scrap the preheat fan idea and only preheat while spinning the rotor on scuba air. It worked before so it´ll work now. Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Jan 30, 2020 12:28:04 GMT -5
This morning was a productive one, first I improved the scavenge line drain by routing it directly back into the oil tank.  Here you can see the oil line from the ball valve to the tank, now I just have to remember to open and close the drain after a run. I considered making a one way valve or using an electric valve but that would only complicate things and be a future cause for problems.  After that I shortened the chain since it had slacked after I fitted the smaller rear sprocket. Now the bike is geared for ~360km/h without overspeeding the gearbox, that is the tallest gearing I can fit.  I also rerouted some oil lines and wiring to make it a bit tidier in the chassis. When I checked the mailbox on my way to work I found the 4 channel thermometer that I assumed was missing in transit since I ordered it in november! A good day.   Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Feb 4, 2020 17:25:03 GMT -5
Tonight I exchanged the zip ties for velcro straps in the cable harness, much better and easy to add or remove a cable later on. I also fitted a banjo style battery charging connection, now I can permanently mount the rear fairings and still be able to charge the battery between runs. Sweet!  Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Mar 26, 2020 16:00:22 GMT -5
Hi guys!
I hope you are all doing fine despite the turbulent times we are heading into. Needless to say the 2020 racing season is over before it even started but at least I can test run the bike this summer and check that everything is ok.
With the national medical care on the brink of collapse I wont take any unnecessary risks trying for any high speed runs, providing for the family and preparing for the worst is on my agenda right now.
Stay safe my friends, when this storm has passed there will be plenty of time for some serious record breaking!💪🏻
Cheers!
/Anders
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Post by racket on Mar 26, 2020 18:08:27 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Yep , stay safe .............LOL, thats a bit strange considering our hobby , but at least we're in control of that .
Looking forward to seeing what you get up in your workshop this summer :-)
Cheers
John
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Post by Johansson on Jun 7, 2020 13:09:15 GMT -5
Last Friday I attempted to start the bike but couldnt get the fuel pump to work, all I got was some unhealthy noices from the pump controller.
Today I did a closer check of the electronics and found a broken transistor leg, I resoldered the wire to the leg and got the pump up and running again.👍🏻
As soon as the rain stops I will plan for a new start attempt, a couple of scuba tanks need to be refilled until then.
Cheers!
/Anders
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Post by racket on Jun 7, 2020 18:31:07 GMT -5
Hi Anders
Can't wait to see her fired up again
Cheers
John
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Post by azwood on Aug 9, 2020 19:43:02 GMT -5
Hi great to see it's coming along antiously awaiting a vid of this beast.just a quick question you said you had to solid mount the gearbox and let the engine slide on the frame rails.im worried that I haven't got anything like this would you recommend a slip joint of some kind.thanks Aaron
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Post by racket on Aug 9, 2020 20:24:27 GMT -5
Hi Aaron
Use a slipjoint , thats what I have on the 12/118 freepower inlet
Cheers
John
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Post by azwood on Aug 9, 2020 20:26:21 GMT -5
Hi Aaron Use a slipjoint , thats what I have on the 12/118 freepower inlet Cheers John Thanks hope you're getting better jhon I'll look at your build |
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Post by racket on Aug 9, 2020 21:00:16 GMT -5
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Post by azwood on Aug 10, 2020 1:34:51 GMT -5
Got the idea thanks think I've seen something like that on skania trucks
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