greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 16, 2017 19:57:54 GMT -5
got a bit done on the c/c yesterday cut out a rough shape for the turbo flange with my underpowered plasma and taped the boltholes. i plan to blank off the back of these holes and insert stud bolts so there is no leakage through the threads i then cut out the 6" cap and welded them together im off to stirlings (stainless steel supplier) this afternoon so ill have a scrounge in the bargin bin for some 5" pipe for the flametube this way i wont have to roll my own. i plan to finish the flange bolted to the turbine scroll and profile with a diegrinder to get a seamless transition so i removed the scroll from the turbo and also the comp housing while I was at it. turns out the comp inlet is only 70.5mm so slightly less than i thought it was but thats what you get when you try remember mesurments from 3 or so years ago all the actual dimensions are comp ind 70.5 comp exd 108mm turb ind 97mm turb exd 86mm
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 19, 2017 5:41:59 GMT -5
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 30, 2017 9:16:09 GMT -5
the inside of the exhaust flange has been cleaned up to size with a nice radius into the scroll. i also cleaned up the scroll removed some material from areas that were overly thick or unnessisary and had it sandblasted. i gave it a coat of red oxide to stop the rust buildup until i machine the vband setup into the gas exit. ill pull apart the bearing housing next and make sure everything is ok (i have a feeling the piston rings are stuffed in the exhaust side) i will also paint that housing to stop the rust and make it a neater finish
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on May 31, 2017 1:54:24 GMT -5
bearing housing blasted and ready for a paint with some high heat paint
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 2, 2017 7:48:23 GMT -5
bearing housing painted and cured in 1050°c paint. also started on the rectangle to round transition i have no idea how cad works so i will do it the old fashioned way with a compas and a ruler. i will make a bender of sorts when i get a chance so i can press it into shape
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CH3NO2
Senior Member
Joined: March 2017
Posts: 455
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Post by CH3NO2 on Jun 3, 2017 8:31:41 GMT -5
Looking really good Ryan.
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 7, 2017 7:46:28 GMT -5
i had a bit of time on my hands so i had a good look at the rotating parts and as i expected one of the piston rings was distorted on the hot side so i will buy a refurb kit hopefully i can find a reasonably priced one on ebay. both the compressor and turbine are pretty banged up the compressor has a chip from one blade tip about 1mm/1.2mm triangle and the turbine has had a much rougher life the flats of the tips are all dented and pitted and a corner 1.5/1.5mm missing from one tip. after seeing all this damage by eye. i decided to use some flaw finder die to make sure i didn't miss any cracks. the red die goes onto the part and is left to set into any flaw/crack you then rinse and wipe off the excess. next spray the white develloper on then set it aside for a bit and any die that was left in the cracks seeps out and stains the developer paint showing any flaws. on closer inspection there is a small peice about 1mm square that is cracked almost all the way through and definitly wont last many more cycles. i dont want to buy another wheel so i think ill just break away the cracked part and clean it up. will i have to re balance the parts or will it be a small enough imballance to not worry about with fliud bearings
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 7, 2017 7:51:17 GMT -5
pic 4 above has the crack running axialy if you look close enough. i will use these turbine and compressor parts for now if its a problem later i will have to buy some new parts
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Post by stoffe64 on Jun 7, 2017 7:55:31 GMT -5
It can explode you know, i would look for another turbine if i were you. Cheers /stephan
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 7, 2017 8:09:13 GMT -5
yea i know its just the tip that has a crack not near the hub. however if the imbalance from removing the small broken part is enough to make it explode i wont use it. i was using these parts in the jet beforehand (with the previously mentioned chips and dents ) without any "noticeable" vibrations or noise change throughout the rpm range
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 7, 2017 19:38:56 GMT -5
If you remove that "cracked" piece, it will need re-balancing, otherwise you'll be getting vibration issues. Those turbine blades look to have been overtemped quite a few times and are distorted...I'd be very wary of them and not run the turbine to max rpm. As Stephan has mentioned, it can let go in a big way. Best advice is to fit a new or known good turbine.
Cheers, Smithy
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greazy
Veteran Member
Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 7, 2017 20:31:27 GMT -5
ok replace the turbine it is. it is definitely dodgy looking the photos dont do it justice it must have had a lot of crap run through it when it was in operation on the tractor
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Post by stoffe64 on Jun 8, 2017 8:05:01 GMT -5
This forced me to look for another turbo Cheers /stephan
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jun 8, 2017 8:31:44 GMT -5
the heat marks?? or rubbing??
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Post by stoffe64 on Jun 8, 2017 9:40:22 GMT -5
It has plenty of cracks!
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