greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Jul 27, 2017 9:15:01 GMT -5
found some time to get the bits welded together tonight. everything looks nice and smooth on the inside so im happy. welding onto cast was a first for me. i had some serious issues with what i thought was dirty cast even know i cleaned it to fresh metal and took every step to make sure it would go smoothly. in the end i found that i accidentally turned off the argon to the welder. after fixing the gas issue it went rather smoothly the cast quality was high with only two or 3 bits of porosity that i came across when cutting and welding next up a transition peice for the chamber.
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Post by Johansson on Jul 30, 2017 3:09:40 GMT -5
A cast compressor cover is pretty clean so no big deal to weld it.
A valve cover or any other part soaked in oil for years and years are a bit trickier since the small casting pores are filled with crap that starts to boil when the metal heats up.
I once welded a cracked motorcycle engine with the oil still in the engine, it was in the middle of the night at Speed Weekend when a friend had accidently tipped over his turbo bike. The melt was so dirty that the whole thing boiled with black spots all over the surface, but I managed to seal it in the end.
It sure didn't help that the welder was piss drunk either...:-)
Cheers! /Anders
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Aug 15, 2017 23:29:32 GMT -5
A cast compressor cover is pretty clean so no big deal to weld it. A valve cover or any other part soaked in oil for years and years are a bit trickier since the small casting pores are filled with crap that starts to boil when the metal heats up. I once welded a cracked motorcycle engine with the oil still in the engine, it was in the middle of the night at Speed Weekend when a friend had accidently tipped over his turbo bike. The melt was so dirty that the whole thing boiled with black spots all over the surface, but I managed to seal it in the end. It sure didn't help that the welder was piss drunk either...:-) Cheers! /Anders with a bit of determination and some alcohol anything can be welded!!
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Aug 15, 2017 23:36:37 GMT -5
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 2, 2018 19:30:40 GMT -5
apologies for the massive delay between posts i have been very buzy with a new job and home renovations alas im back on the horse now. a new turbine and rebuild kit has been recived and i have replaced all the seals rings and bearings also welded the bellmouth to the comp housing. ryan
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 11, 2018 2:17:40 GMT -5
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Post by Johansson on Feb 12, 2018 14:17:25 GMT -5
Very nice work!
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greazy
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Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 16, 2018 2:42:18 GMT -5
shaped cut and prepped for welding 😁 I'll tackle that part tonight after a few beverages ryan
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 16, 2018 17:05:58 GMT -5
a question for the more experienced how short can I make the combustion chamber?
its 172mm id so 23235 mm2 flame tube is 125mm so 12271 mm2 comp intake is 70.5mm so 3903 mm2
i know the standard eazy to make numbers are 6x comp size but thats 420mm long and id really like to avoid going that big. i was thinking 200 to 250 long but im unsure if this will be too short for a decent burn. any advice appreciated
thanks ryan,
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Post by racket on Feb 16, 2018 17:47:06 GMT -5
Hi Ryan
The length will depend to a great degree on how you are fueling the engine , and how well you want the Secondary and Tertiary Zones to work .
The better the fuel/air presentation/mixing in the Primary Zone the shorter things can be made .
Now , is your 200-250 mm including the "funnel" between the round section and the rectangular turb scroll inlet , or only the straight walled section ??
Cheers John
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Feb 16, 2018 17:52:57 GMT -5
Hi Ryan The length will depend to a great degree on how you are fueling the engine , and how well you want the Secondary and Tertiary Zones to work . The better the fuel/air presentation/mixing in the Primary Zone the shorter things can be made . Now , is your 200-250 mm including the "funnel" between the round section and the rectangular turb scroll inlet , or only the straight walled section ?? Cheers John 250mm of full 5" flame tube length. with the funnel it will take it to about 300mm in length. i haven't decided on a fuel delivery system yet i have a single spray nozzel setup into a trunk evaporatpr before. however ill gladly make a individual nedle and evaporator setup if that works better
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Post by racket on Feb 16, 2018 19:12:57 GMT -5
Hi Ryan Yep , that 250mm main section should be OK as long as the combustion starts high in the flametube . As you're pretty handy with a welder , you shouldn't have any problems making up a set of "walking stick" vapourisers, we probably need a minimum of 4 outlets to provide adequate coverage of the FT cross section , have a look at what I used for some ideas jetandturbineowners.proboards.com/thread/40/2-shaft-turbine-kart-build?page=2The trunk and branch type vapouriser setup can't guarantee uniformity of fuel delivery to the branches , better to have individual tubes and a fuel dispensing method to each . Cheers John
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greazy
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Post by greazy on Feb 16, 2018 20:23:17 GMT -5
ok 250mm it is. ill suss out a fuel method in the week and get back to you for your oppinion 😀
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greazy
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Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 20, 2018 5:40:15 GMT -5
inlet and outlet are welded to the main chamber. I'll cut to a hight of 300mm long and fab a removable end cap shortly. @ racket- how big should the walking sticks be? length and diamiter! i have access to ss tubing 10mm Id with a wall thickness of 1.5mm is that too small an area for 4 sticks??
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greazy
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Joined: December 2015
Posts: 128
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Post by greazy on Feb 20, 2018 8:45:50 GMT -5
here is a half ass mockup of my fuel design the cone on the door will secure the flame tube and the evap sticks will be welded to it 4 individual fuel jets ( im thinking like Anders idea with the banjo bolts on his new jetbike motor) will be fixed to the door and aim down the evap tubes with room for air to enter with the fuel. i havnt seen any designs like this before but I see no reason it wont work. ill make the cone as shallow as possible but so it still allows air past for evap feed and cooling of the rear door. also room right in the center for spark or preheat jet. cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a8c241cd457e/20180220_212915.mp4
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