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Post by azwood on Jun 2, 2018 21:51:48 GMT -5
Ahh got ya yeah ive got 3.5 in and i was going to add a section to get the 89 but thanks ill try it without the nozzle first LOL...............if you can find an 89 mm ID tube ( ~92 mm OD ) by all means use it , I suggested 4" OD ~98 mm ID because of ready availability , we can always go bigger but never smaller than the exducer shrouds ID , we ideally want a smooth transition between shroud and jetpipe , the ~4.5 mm radial step for the 4" OD pipe won't make any difference I'd suggest you try spooling her up without a jetnozzle until you get a feel for whats going on, the spoolup will be easier/quicker with less chance of a hung start and temps will be lower as well . Cheers John
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Post by azwood on Jun 2, 2018 21:54:33 GMT -5
Got this online for $170 its does 550fps hope with lpg preheat it will get her running
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Post by smithy1 on Jun 2, 2018 22:02:22 GMT -5
Same as the one I have....works fine to start my 6041.....should start your easily.
Smithy.
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Post by azwood on Jun 3, 2018 3:06:15 GMT -5
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Post by azwood on Jun 3, 2018 3:43:17 GMT -5
Think ive found a reduction i can work with that gets everything in how i want it its for a 1300cc bike with 145hp i think it will be good for the power ill need to run a chain from the free power to the shaft then an outher to the axle or run the axle threw it could work too provided i can reduce the gearing enough from the free power wheel☺
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Post by racket on Jun 3, 2018 4:36:48 GMT -5
Whats the gearbox ratio ??
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Post by azwood on Jun 3, 2018 4:59:48 GMT -5
Not sure yet but it would be normal bike gearing id say Whats the gearbox ratio ??
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Post by racket on Jun 3, 2018 6:06:50 GMT -5
2.5 :1 ??
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Post by azwood on Jun 3, 2018 14:06:10 GMT -5
Yeah something like that ill need to ruduce it with sprokets
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Post by racket on Jun 3, 2018 23:21:32 GMT -5
Ok , lets do some numbers
Assuming a top speed of 200 kph - 120 mph , an 11 inch OD rear wheel has a circumference of ~2.88 feet , so 1833 revolutions per mile , so 3666 rpm at 120 mph , with a max rpm of ~32,000 for the turb wheel you'll be needing ~8.72 :1 for the gear ratio , but as you'll have more than sufficient horsepower available , you could go back to a ~4.5 :1 and still have 80% of potential horsepower but at the expense of reduced acceleration because of the "high" gearing .
Using sprockets and chain is going to prove problematic anywhere near the turbine shaft ,racing karting chain will take the 16,000 rpm of 50% N2 ,but your horsepower/torque is probably going to be too much for the chain , but if you go to a heavier chain it'll probably be rpm limited to a much lower rpm level ..............we need gears for the initial reduction , thats why I recommended using a single cylinder IC engine , they generally have a Primary Redux of ~3.5:1 , and because of the harshness of the power production from a single cylinder the gears need to be a lot more robust than for the very smooth power production of a turbine freepower , hence a small IC engine's internals would suffice , maybe 250 cc at most .
If run in top gear with the usual 1:1 ratio , then the chain redux to the axle would only need to be ~2:1 .
Cheers John
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Post by azwood on Jun 3, 2018 23:45:54 GMT -5
Thanks all good points there i dident think the kart chain would like the power much i think the 100cc kart engine would make 25hp at best ill need to have a good think about the way the free power wheels conected it seems a chain would be nice but a reduction seems like the way to go the reason i like the diff is it gives me a 90 degree drive so the free power can run parallel to the axle and the rest across the kart ill see what it looks like as i go Ok , lets do some numbers Assuming a top speed of 200 kph - 120 mph , an 11 inch OD rear wheel has a circumference of ~2.88 feet , so 1833 revolutions per mile , so 3666 rpm at 120 mph , with a max rpm of ~32,000 for the turb wheel you'll be needing ~8.72 :1 for the gear ratio , but as you'll have more than sufficient horsepower available , you could go back to a ~4.5 :1 and still have 80% of potential horsepower but at the expense of reduced acceleration because of the "high" gearing . Using sprockets and chain is going to prove problematic anywhere near the turbine shaft ,racing karting chain will take the 16,000 rpm of 50% N2 ,but your horsepower/torque is probably going to be too much for the chain , but if you go to a heavier chain it'll probably be rpm limited to a much lower rpm level ..............we need gears for the initial reduction , thats why I recommended using a single cylinder IC engine , they generally have a Primary Redux of ~3.5:1 , and because of the harshness of the power production from a single cylinder the gears need to be a lot more robust than for the very smooth power production of a turbine freepower , hence a small IC engine's internals would suffice , maybe 250 cc at most . If run in top gear with the usual 1:1 ratio , then the chain redux to the axle would only need to be ~2:1 . Cheers John
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Post by racket on Jun 4, 2018 0:01:08 GMT -5
Yep , 100 CC kart has a max of ~10 ft lbs you'd have roughly double that at stall , they stretch :-(
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Post by azwood on Jun 4, 2018 3:39:52 GMT -5
I might just use the reduction gear from a bike gearbox you said the alison wheel spins clockwise looking at the wheel from the back so two gears get it going in the right direction again and drop my shaft rpm ill need to make a box for the gears but it would be small at least then go with a chain from there
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Post by azwood on Jun 4, 2018 3:42:34 GMT -5
Oh one little question with the 500w motor did you run it at 12 or 24v for the pump
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Post by azwood on Jun 4, 2018 4:05:13 GMT -5
A pic of the new oil tank for the kart just need more stainless to mount the electric motor and cut the end caps i probly should add an oil breather too🙂
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