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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 27, 2024 13:04:04 GMT -5
So exhaust works, the lip is slightly too thin compared to the turbo flange so used the large lip I cut off as a space filler by slotting it and bending to match the smaller lip. Might try to tig up the inside to smooth out the flow since the adapter piece is welded over the 5" and leaves a little gap. How far along should the temp prob be, couple inches from turbine or 1" back fine? Going to cut off the elbow piece for just a straight view to the turbine just not got around to it as easier twisting the lot currently
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 27, 2024 13:30:33 GMT -5
Couldn't wait 😁
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Post by racket on Feb 27, 2024 15:21:25 GMT -5
Thermocouple where you have it in the pic will be OK
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Feb 28, 2024 9:59:43 GMT -5
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 1, 2024 9:10:21 GMT -5
Lol free ready mixed racket fuel 😂
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 2, 2024 10:37:23 GMT -5
Some unfortunate setback, upon wiring up ignition system and testing I got a nice spark however it seems having a common ground for the gauge negatives and the ignition system has fried my egt and volt display I have the capacitor return connected to the chassis negative so me thinks I need a lead directly from capacitor to next to the spark plug instead of trying to share a common ground with 12/24/high voltage spark even though all good same direction.
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 2, 2024 11:27:11 GMT -5
More I think about it more I get confused, they all share the same ground connection to battery so not sure how the spark managed to go up to wires to the gauge and volt meter byt not fry the other 2 gauges... Now it's impossible to find a similar part on ebay post pandemic
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 3, 2024 8:02:12 GMT -5
Having slept on it I definitely think it's emf as the oil gauges are fine and they have a metal housing so were shielded from it. Will move the ignition box away from the control box which should hopefully help, I'm surprised the buck converter isn't getting fried considering it's in the ignition box..
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richardm
Senior Member
Joined: June 2022
Posts: 268
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Post by richardm on Mar 3, 2024 12:14:37 GMT -5
My unit in enclosed in an aluminum box wich is grounded That could help. You said your output is DC Could your output be inverted as a positive ground ?
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 3, 2024 12:43:04 GMT -5
My unit in enclosed in an aluminum box wich is grounded That could help. You said your output is DC Could your output be inverted as a positive ground ? The polarity is correct, the dc+ of the hv modules goes to the cap and spark plug is taken off that same side, the other side goes to ground to complete the spark. The fact two gauges still work and they're encased in metal probably means it's emf being the spark box is plastic so I'll have to just move it away.
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richardm
Senior Member
Joined: June 2022
Posts: 268
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Post by richardm on Mar 7, 2024 16:02:24 GMT -5
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richardm
Senior Member
Joined: June 2022
Posts: 268
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Post by richardm on Mar 7, 2024 16:19:29 GMT -5
And is the shielding itself grounded if any ?
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 8, 2024 5:02:47 GMT -5
1- stepdown buck converter 2- HV taser modules wired in parallel 3 - 20kv 2a diode on the positive side 4 - microwave capacitor 5 - spark gap (radioactive lol) 6 - 1960's aircraft spark plug Originally it was wired so I had the dashed line instead of the zigzag one and it was connected to the same ground spot on the frame as the gauges with the spark traveling through the frame to complete the capacitor connection when it fires, now I've got it wired so the zigzag wire is connected to the frame right beside the spark plug so it doesn't go the long route. The wire connected to the spark gap is the orange one in the 2nd picture, it's actually the wire feed tube from a mig torch as worked from my needs (rigid but flexible) and the blue wire is the new return which is connected to the outside of the spark plug. Doing this should isolate the HV/LV as blue wire is shortest connection to the cap. Because of the way the lead is assembled the braiding earthed to the chassis but so is the spark plug due to design but the blue return wire is directly connected to the plug so shortest route back. I'm thinking of either moving the HV box (most awkward solution) or shielding it by a layer of aluminium tap inside the box walls. Ironically the buck converter is inside the box and that wasn't fried 🤷🏼♂️ andym jetric did you ever have EMF issues or did you use a metal electronics box? This is the last gremlin to solve electrically then everything is mechanical to start her up lol
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richardm
Senior Member
Joined: June 2022
Posts: 268
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Post by richardm on Mar 8, 2024 6:38:27 GMT -5
My exciter is basically similar to yours but without spark gap. HV unit, HV diode and capacitor. The whole thing is enclosed in aluminum box and and the HV cable shielding acts as the ground connection between the cap and the plug The shielding is also connected to the enclosure witch itself is grounded to the engine frame and to the main power supply. Mine is powered directly from a 12 volts supply, no voltage converter and I was surprised to ear my power supply sounding like whiii whiii whiii between each spark. Quite similar to what you ear from some strobe light or photo flash charging up. This makes me wonder if your voltage converter could be playing some tricks on your supply voltage to the instruments. Just trying to guess
But EMF is a tricky thing. I flew a plane in wich the strobe lights were making the engine torque meters go crazy when turned on.. Wiring route was wrong..
I also had a cheap I Gaging DRO on my lathe that would turn itself on when I TIG welded...From the starting HF I suppose
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Post by wannabebuilderuk on Mar 9, 2024 15:37:37 GMT -5
Went for the conspiracy theory method first before going to the move it option lol, hopefully the rewiring and shielding should do the trick. Bought a pack of 4 of the volt meters so got a couple to sacrifice when testing if the shielding doesn't work, £2 better than another £20 egt gauge.
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