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Post by Johansson on Aug 7, 2017 0:25:57 GMT -5
Hello everyone. My name is Luciano. I'm 36 years old and I live in Brazil. I'm a car mechanic and I'm in love with engines. I want to build my own gas turbine one day. I speak a little English, so I may have a little difficulty answering and I have to use the translator most of the time for do not to make mistakes, sometimes I can write something wrong, sorry. Special thanks to Johansson for telling me this board via YouTube. Thank you. I think that's it. Welcome Luciano!  |
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Post by Johansson on Aug 7, 2017 0:24:05 GMT -5
Your daughter is so cute. Actually I have two of them equally cute, so no sleep for papa and mama 10 years from now when the moped carried suitors start circling the house... Hi Anders LOL............that was an "OH SHIT" moment ,.......... heh heh , had the same thing happen to me with the TV84 bike ..........they have a mind of their own , a tad too much idling power and they just want to wander off :-) We can almost start counting down the days now until we get to see her at full song on the runway ...............we'll all be praying for fine weather. Cheers John It sure was, it would have been a disaster if the side stand dug down so the bike ended up on its side. I am really looking forward to testing the water injection, not sure though if I should start at the lowest flow that still produce a spray pattern or if I should go for the higher 1L/min injection flow. Last year the race almost rained away so I really hope it will be better weather this year, with only one race each year we need every minute of run time there is. |
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Post by Johansson on Aug 6, 2017 14:00:43 GMT -5
I started the bike today to see if everything is ok for One Mile, I didn´t have a chance to test the water injection since the bike almost took off at high idle despite a locked rear brake. Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Aug 3, 2017 13:44:07 GMT -5
With a 48mm comp inducer and a 66mm turbine exducer I think the turbocharcer will work just fine for a gas turbine.
Just out of curiosity, what diameter is the inlet hole in the turbine housing?
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Post by Johansson on Aug 3, 2017 8:42:05 GMT -5
What is the outlet diameter on the turbine wheel?
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Post by Johansson on Aug 2, 2017 23:56:48 GMT -5
Hi!
It is a bit of a challenge to get useful data out of atmospheric combustor tests, the main thing is to closely monitor the outlet temp and not let it go higher than 900c or whatever temp you plan to have as turbine inlet temperature later.
Without any pressure in the combustor you won't be able to run much fuel through it before it start to act like a flame thrower, that is why you need to check the outlet temps.
It is also important to get a good flow of air through the combustor, so using an air compressor is not recommended. Some sort of high volume fan is preferable.
Looking forward to a turboshaft gocart project! :-)
Cheers!
/Anders
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Post by Johansson on Aug 2, 2017 1:37:26 GMT -5
Looking really nice!
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Post by Johansson on Jul 31, 2017 0:42:06 GMT -5
John: There shouldn't be any restriction except for the freepower turbine downstream, in fact the JU-01 NGV is a bit larger than it is supposed to be. I'll test it some more next week, might be that it will loosen up when the oil gets a bit warmer. Agnes has that look in her eye. Does she know how to start the land speed bike? Gods no, but I will have to watch her closely when I have the electric starter fitted.... :-) |
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Post by Johansson on Jul 30, 2017 3:09:40 GMT -5
A cast compressor cover is pretty clean so no big deal to weld it.
A valve cover or any other part soaked in oil for years and years are a bit trickier since the small casting pores are filled with crap that starts to boil when the metal heats up.
I once welded a cracked motorcycle engine with the oil still in the engine, it was in the middle of the night at Speed Weekend when a friend had accidently tipped over his turbo bike. The melt was so dirty that the whole thing boiled with black spots all over the surface, but I managed to seal it in the end.
It sure didn't help that the welder was piss drunk either...:-)
Cheers!
/Anders
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Post by Johansson on Jul 28, 2017 2:37:39 GMT -5
No risk, we are only visiting Annas family some 700km south of where we live. No sunny beaches and endless rows of Long Island Ice Tea this summer. What I did do was to test spin JU-01 with the blower under oil pressure, and I noticed that it spun much less than JU-02 did. Even with the propane preheat burning it stopped in just a couple of seconds after the blower was removed. This might still be enough when some more heat is applied to both the oil and combustor, as soon as I get back home I will take the bike outdoors and try to start it. With a close check on temps and P2, don't want to toast the engine this close to One Mile... Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Jul 28, 2017 0:49:27 GMT -5
Arghh!! I forgot all about it... I'll do that, will keep me updated on the forum activity on my smart phone. It takes me forever to write on this darn thing though... Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Jul 27, 2017 1:08:44 GMT -5
I´ll see if I remember it before going away on vacation this afternoon, it is speced to 3kW at least.
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Post by Johansson on Jul 26, 2017 23:06:37 GMT -5
Hi Erik,
A V-band clamp for the lid works just fine, I try to use them wherever I can to avoid the nerve wrecking job of drilling dozens of small holes in stainless.
Cheers!
/Anders
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Post by Johansson on Jul 26, 2017 5:18:44 GMT -5
Hi Anders I'll be looking forward to seeing how well the engine starts on the blower , its a simpler way of starting compared to filling scuba tanks , even though the very high pressure does a great job , the blower will have its advantages even if a tad slower spooling up . If you have some spare time ( ha ha ) could you do a "manometer" test on your blower's "total" output pressure , I sorta remember my old leafblower only produced ~6 inches of water even though plenty of flow , we need "pressure" for forcing the air through all the restrictions leading up to the turbine wheel where its remaining energy is finally used for spooling up . When I did my test I used a piece of thin plywood with the manometer plastic tube stuck through the centre, the ply was pressed against the blower outlet , this produced the pressure with nil flow , then I proceeded to bore holes in the plywood to increase flow and noted pressure changes with each extra hole, with a limited number of holes its simulated the restrictions within our engines. As the blower uses a centrif comp wheel theres going to be a "sweet spot" where pressure and flows are at their best , my initial test produced poor pressures so I installed packing to reduce the wheel to housing clearances , this increased pressure due to minimising leakage/recirculation..............I think some of the leafblower are designed as dual purpose units for both blow and suck so need generous clearance when sucking leaves up ..................yours sounds like its got excellent "blow" :-) Cheers John Hi John, I´ll do a test when time permits, it must be pretty efficient since it starts JU-02 with no problems at all. Cheers! /Anders |
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Post by Johansson on Jul 26, 2017 1:27:59 GMT -5
I don't think that uncooled metal flaps inside the combustor outlet is a very good idea, unless they are made out of inconel or MA253 they will most likely burn out over time and possibly damage the turbine wheel.
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